I had plans of going with an LT1, but I really want and LS motor so I'm going with my heart on this one. Out of everyones experience which LS motor is better the LS1 or the LS6. I like the fact that the LS6 is a 6.0L but the LS1 is cheaper.

 

Why not just go with a 6.0 truck motor and use the LS1 intake, accessories etc etc.

 

Like what the manifold, coil packs, heads..what else?

 

What I was going to say you can save some money on the motor if go with the truck motor. I have seen them $1000-1500 motor and tranny. If not for the price of headders and a few other things I would swap one in.

 

Get the Ls1, but put Ls6 parts on it. Namely the intake, as it's a 90mm(I belive). A couple of other things are better on the Ls6, I just can't think of them.

 

LS6 uses the same TB as the LS1. It's the LS2 that has the 90mm TB (been through that pain).

 

Thanks Buddy. I've doing some research for an LS swap of mine own in the future. But, I havn't gone that in depth in it.

 

so the LS6 with the ls1 component is the best way to go? I'm new to the LS motors and i wanna get everything straight before i go and buy all the parts

 

Read this. Start at "where to start"

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...want-swap.html


Then let me know what you think LOL

 

If use a Truck engine, you have to change (as memory serves)

Waterpump (oder mod the necks)
AC-Bracket
Generato Brackt
and because of those:
Balancer
Powerteering Pump

Intake Manifold

Oilpan,
Oil Pickup including its O-Ring!
Acording to Part No. the Windage tray also (d*** missed that one)

And that is only for the Engine alone

 

No, if you can find a 2001+ 6.0 truck engine you don't even have to swap out the heads as they have aluminum heads on it. Just like mentioned above, swap out all the front accessories for LS1 f-body accessories, and the intake and you'll be set.

Way cheaper to find a low milage truck engine which would be cheaper than a higher milage LS1 and much cheaper than an LS6 or LS2, and any components that will go into an LS1 will work in a truck block.

 

nice! I like pictures though since I stupid JK good write up

I never finished my a/c I just needed the ls1 comp. and to notch the frame. I had an Idea to use a a/c comp. from a 89-91 N body with a 2.3 eng. (uses the same size belt and is a little smaller than the ls1 comp.) although it mounts differant I think I could get it to work using the same ls1 bracket. the problem is the junk yards are out of there minds I don't want to pay top dollar for an old a/c comp. from one of these cars just to find out I still have to notch the frame on top of the new mounting

 

Easiest thing to do is swap a complete pull out of a 99-02 f-body(i believe everyone says stay away from the 98's). Fparts on ebay sells them. They are a junkyard thats like 5 minutes from my house and have bought stuff from them. If i was to do it again and knew as much as i do now i would go this route.

After that if you still got money put some upgrades in it. BUt no matter what, the LS1 is going to be alot better then what you have now.

 

Ok, I talked to a few friends of mine and they think I should go with the LS2 which is what i wanted...i was getting confused between the LS2 and LS6...so i think i might go with that.....now about the other parts, is the LS1 gas tank worth the money and how hard is the wiring thats my biggest concern, the wiring

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...want-swap.html

 

Yet another one.....


listen to kuulkatdadieo he speaks the truth

 

Yea -cam recommends it.

 

Seriously I think the LS1 tank swap is the steal of the century for us third gen guys when it comes down to this swap. You get;

1. A superior tank that literally bolts right in is easy to hook up
2. A fuel pump thats strong enough to support upwards of 500 rwhp
3. A bucket surrounding the fuel pump so there is no fuel starvation on launch or cornering best of both worlds.
4. A built in regulator
5. A complete BARGAIN cuz they can be had for cheap

As for wiring? All you need to hook up is

1. Fuel pump power
2. ground
3. fuel gauge output

The gauge sender does need to be changed to work with your stock gauge but thats it. You can hook up evap and what not but its not nec to run. Otherwise its alllllllll gravy

 

The LS6 is a 5.7. The LS2 is a 6.0 as are the LQ4 and LQ9 (truck motors). The LQ4/9 can be had cheaper than a LS2.
I'm going to find a LQ4 shortblock (I'll need F-body accesories and oil pan, but hey) with L92 (LS3) heads and intake and custom grind cam....that is, when I get the money.

 

can you give more info on the evap please? wouldn't that eliminate the evap canister from under the hood?

 

The charcoal canister ( evap can ) is attached to the fuel tank in LS1 f bodies so yes you will no longer need your stock under hood charcoal can. Might want to check with local laws and regs if you plan on staying legal. Some areas require the system to conform to the engine year and others to the chassis.

LS1's use advanced fuel vapor recovery that allows the fuel tank to become pressurized and then purge the fumes into the engine for consumption rather than evaporate out to the environment via a small solenoid on the intake ( evap solenoid ). Its a great idea but very tricky to wire up into a third gen and get working properly as it shares some wiring with the fuel gauge and seeing as the LS1 fuel sender doesn't work with a third gen gauge most of us have abandoned it.

The good news is even without the evap circuit hooked up if you use an LS1 tank the charcoal cannister actually does a better job than a stock third gen system for enviro protection and smell.

 

The evap system uses the sending unit?

I thought it uses the pressure sensor thats located on top of the tank?

 

i would like to get rid of the evap canister under the hood, so i would need a gage out of ls1 f-body and the gas tank. What else would i need? Plus i plan to swap to lq9 later down the road so having a good fuel pump would not hurt.

 

If you do a 4th gen tank, does the power/ground from the stock pump work with it? I know that the pumps need a relay so that the pump isn't on all the time.

 

I know where i can get a 4th gen tank cheap, but does it matter if its a v6 or does it gotta be an LS1 only tank.

 

The PCM uses a lot of info to manage that system so its tricky. The link below has good info about this

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ank-ready.html

The evap/charcoal can comes on an LS1 tank. Please read this sticky regarding fuel. Theres lots of pics and info there but if you read it all I promise you will no longer be confused. No you do not swap a fourth gen gauge you swap a fuel level sender to match your third gen gauge.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...want-swap.html

The LS1 PCM manages the fuel pump so you could use your stock wiring but would have splice in the PCM to the relay but I went from carb originally so read the stickies about fuel there may be more on this. Regardless the fuel pump wiring is dead nuts easy

LS1 only

 

true remember lq4/9 iron ls2 aluminum your choice. I'm going with the lq4/9 shortblock when we do the swap on the 91z. We did an ls2, 6.0l t56 l92 heads and a cam its the best bang per buck, follow the link, i will be updated it when time will let me

 

I started a lq4 swap and just started going nuts with it. Using a 408 stroker kit now and ported l92 heads. Was gonna start out stock but...you know how it goes.

 

what made you go nuts with lq4?