Justin,

I am using
- Rebuilt T-56
- Pro 5 Shifter
- Tick MC
- GM Slave
- Spec Clutch
- Royal Purple Max ATF in the T-56
- Castrol Synthetic Racing Fluid (SRF) in the cylinder

Mine shifts really good... or at least it did! it is all pulled out right now with my upgrades going on with my LS3 for the next couple weeks

 

I bought a T-56 from some guy and sent it over to Tick for the stage II rebuild along with REM polishing and cryogenic treatment. THey are great guys to deal with and can probably tell you if something is wrong with the tranny before they even start a rebuild. This may be a good start if you are going that path to see what is wrong.

I am currently in the middle of my build and wont be running till hopefully July or August so I cannot tell you about the tranny yet. Good luck with solving this problem, if no one here knows whats going on let us know what you find from elsewhere.

and DONT go auto, manual is just too much fun

 

Shifting crappy into 2nd and 3rd but great into first and 4th suggests a sticky CAGS solenoid

Probably isnt your issue, but its plausible

If you really want to really pull your hair out, try to troubleshoot my misfiring problem. Runs and drives fine. Once warm, idling in gear it will run progressively richer (up to +16% STFTs) until it either stalls out or backfires and reset the fuel trims to 0 before slowly enriching again. Problem 2 is under load with low RPMs. Misfires and stumbles until I downshift and get the RPMs up (same enrichment problem). Problem 3 is heavy acceleration. Beyond X throttle, I get massive missfire and stumbles (again). Let off to around 1/2 throttle and it pulls like crazy, just like its supposed to. MAF unplugged, running in SD mode it goes SUPER lean. -40% STFTs idling in gear, up to around -20% driving. Problem persists even with O2s unplugged

All sensors read fine and have been checked +5 times. Harness removed in its entirety and ohmed out. Good fuel pressure, new fuel system, new IGN system, no exhaust leaks

So in essence Ive got a pretty swap I cant take past half throttle

 

Yeah guys...I wont switch to auto haha. Im just really tired of spending money and time on this. I wish I had a cable clutch so I could eliminate hydraulic issues. I know cable clutches have their problems...but air in the lines isnt one of them. Faulty slave cylinders that require trans to be pulled isnt one of them. Ill figure it out. I have a feeling that slave might be bad. But Im not a fan of pulling the trans, putting it back in only to have the same problems.

Pocket...that sounds strange. Have you tried a different PCM? So it starts up, and things are ok...and they just progressively get worse? What about an injector issue? One or more stuck open??

J.

 

Ive seen multiple threads about swapping the LSx hydraulics onto older transmissions, but never older clutch control onto the T56. Not sure where to point you there

Ive got a spare PCM, but it would require another custom flash that i dont want to cough up the money for unless Im sure thats the issue. Not sure how to test for sticky injectors. They only had 40k on them when i installed them. I did check for a leaky injector by pulling the rail and priming the pump. Nothing came out. Not sure one/two sticky injectors would cause the complete random misfire I watched on the scanner

Hard part is done, now is time for the hard-er part of making it perfect

 

Whats your fuel pressure look like after the motor warms up? How about when you shut the motor off? Does it hold pressure for awhile?

Since it seems to get worse with temperature, I guess its possible that once the injectors warm up they start acting up. It only takes one injector to start messing with STFTs.

It sounds like you are watching your sensors, so I wont suggest the CTS or the IAT or anything like that. If they're doing what they're supposed to, you shouldnt have an issue. Like your CTS isnt working backwards or anything haha.

Those gremlins drive me nuts. My STFTs were all over the place. 10% difference from bank to bank. My tuner and I expected the worst...ring issues rearing their ugly heads. So I started looking, and ended up having two completely clogged injectors. Stupid cars...

J.

 

God I hope its not a ring issue

Fuel pressure is around 50 with the prime and start, then rock solid 55 at idle, cold, hot and revving. Hose wasnt long enough to watch it for a drive, but i did a small burnout in the driveway gravel. Still 55

Guess its onto a new set of injectors

 

Hmmm...man. Thats weird.

I doubt your issue is rings. Mine smokes and eats oil like its its job haha. So I have other issues.

I drove the car to work today after vowing to not drive it all week after sunday's mess. I found if I avoid 3rd gear, things feel "ok". I still hit rough spots even going into 5th sometimes. That fluid has to come out soon. I cant wait.

I also noticed that my pedal doesnt return 100% right away. It sort of comes 98% of the way up, then very slowly returns to its resting position. Starting to suspect the slave cyinder is garbage. But also starting to see that I think I have an issue with the 2-3 stuff in the trans. Synchros..fork..? NO idea. Guess I wont know unless I tear it apart. So I guess I wont know for a while!! haha.

J.

 

Before you go and spend $$ on the injectors, pull them out like you did for the leak test, (hot if possible, if that is when the car acts up the most) then give each 1 B+/ ground to fire it. Only need to do 2-5 seconds a piece. you should see uniform pattern. when I got mine going at first I had 5 stuck (closed) injectors. after doing the above procedure they all unstuck (probably b/c I could hold them on for more that the few milliseconds that the computer does) and sprayed great. Other than that, sounds like everything checks out, I'd be looking at the pcm

You may have 2 issues, or just the 1. By the sound of it, I'd be looking at the slave cyl, all your symptoms could be caused by a bad/weak slave. On the other hand, if you never had the trans apart before driving it (or never drove it before putting it in your car) you could have some bad syncros/gears. I had to pull mine out and get it rebuilt (D&D Performance in Wixom, MI, google search for their phone #, I don't think they are board sponsors, so, no toe stepping) because mine would crunch into 2nd when warm, pop out of 3rd and sometimes crunch 4th. now it is butter smooth . Anyhow, keep us posted.

 

Great idea. Ill build a small test harness for this

 

Well...Im bored. So Im posting in this lond winded thread again haha.

Updates on the car. Not much... My jeep has a cracked head. So Ive been driving the car every day.

Most recently, I changed the trans fluid to Mobil 1, and bled the clutch with like a full quart of fluid. Well...its now WORSE. Does this weird thing where if I rev it with the clutch in, I get a NASTY grind/vibe at around 2000 rpm. Its even worse if the car is in gear with the clutch in. It will do it if I shift from 1 to 2, and the rpms happen to drop in around 2k while Im shifting. It will NOT let me shift at higher RPMs. 3rd grinds, 5th grinds...sometimes 2nd will grind if Im trying to drive hard.

Im thinking that the pilot bearing is shot...or the slave is garbage. Just have to pull the trans. For now...I have to limp it back and forth to work. As soon as my Jeep is fixed, Im going to pull the trans and see what I have.

I have a theory. When I put the trans back onto the bellhousing, one of the dowel pins wasnt in the trans. IT was in the bell housing. I was careful to line it up, and engage it...but now Im wondering if I didnt just push the dowel further into the bell housing. If the trans clocked even a tiny bit, I can see how it would cause issues, and even wear out the pilot. Good thing there is, Im using a bushing, not a bearing. So hopefully the input shaft is ok. Thats just one of many theories I have going on right now though.

Still not sure why pedal pressure chages so much. From civic light to mack truck heavy. And when its civic light, it shifts like butter.

Here are a couple additions. Finally hooked up my Harlan shift light. Its been tough breaking the habit of watching my tach, but DEF nice to not have to glance down. Red light comes on, shift Here's what I see..



And I installed a pioneer USB adapter. I was going to figure out how to hook up my MP3 player..but then Ide need a cig adapter and all that. So I ordered the USB adapter, and an 8 gig micro thumb drive from amazon. Total cost was $31 shipped...cant beat that.







Otherwise, the car is doing well. Still need alignment fixed. Still needs paint haha.

J.

 

hahaha! Nice update post! Sounds like she's running like a champ. I really wish you could figure out your transmission issues.. I have read this thread front to back a few times in my life and I can't believe this problem is still going on.. I feel like I'm there scratching my head with you saying.. "hell.. I dont' know.." haha So.. as if I'm standing right next to you.. Lets pull this tranny brotha!! its go time!

 

Haha...well, I wish I had a better excuse for not figuring it out. But at this point, its time and laziness haha. My DD is broken down for a couple more weeks. Im building some axles for a couple Jeep buddies. I have 4 in my garage right now. Two Dana 30's, a 8.8, and a CHRY 8.25. Fun times... Oh yeah...AND Im getting married in less than two months haha. Car might take a back seat until after thats done and over with.

Thanks for reading the thread! I wish there was more cool stuff to post haha. Trying to decide if I should just let this one die, or keep posting any updates in here. I.E. when I tear the trans out and eventually rebuild things etc etc.

J.

 

After all the horror stories I've seen about 4th gen clutches, I either must be one blessed guy, or I haven't driven/raced mine enough yet to get to those problems.

 

I think I might just have gremlins to work out to be honest. I mean, you rarely hear about guys having no problems. The massive amounts of threads are always about guys with problems.

Ive given SERIOUS consideration to building a cable set up. Yeah yeah cables stretch/break etc etc. But ide MUCH rather replace a cable than replace a slave cylinder and bleed a clutch. Its just a pain all around.

I also didnt put the best parts on the car. Autozone slave vs. GM. I probably should have dropped the coin on a better clutch than the LS7...but it was cheap and everyone said it would stand up to my abuse. One thing I regret... Not pulling the trans apart before putting it all back into car #2. Would have been a good time to straighten anything inside of there out.

Now instead, Im having major issues. I want to stop that vibe/grind that I have now..thats not good. So if I can do that, Ill put up with the notchy rough shifting for now. I plan to do a rough rebuild on the motor (rings and gaskets) and while Im at it, rebuild the trans. That'll at least make me happy until I can build my new motor.

J.

 

I think you should keep updating this Justin. It gives myself and many others stuff entertainment and tons of useful info. One day I'll be getting into my own swap, and this is going to be my "bible".

Good luck with the marriage too man.

 

Hey Justin can you provide a quick measurement please? We're doing another LS1 swap up here and not sure whether or not to go for the ProKit or the Sportlines. I run the Sportlines because I can tuck the exhaust with the t56 but this new build is an auto and doesnt have the most ideal y-pipe ground clearance. Anyways we have it up and running on the stock springs and it looks utterly ridiculous its soooo high in the front so a spring swap is imminent. What we'd like to know is the dimension from just inside the top of the fender lip to the top of your front tire? This way we can compare his ride height to yours and how much we'll lose on y-pipe clearance and this will be a big help deciding on what spring we can fit in there. Thanks man

Hope all is well

cam-

 

Whats up Cam?

Unfortunatly, my car is at my garage since the trans/clutch is goofed. Ill actually be there today or tomorrow...not sure which. You'll probably have what you need by then, but Ill gladly measure for you.

Youre going to have to get creative to get a nice y-pipe in there with an auto. Honestly, I think it was reason #4 that I went with a manual trans haha. I hate those two subframe areas on our cars. Such a pain.

If my car ever makes it to a rotissere...Im re-designing that mess and fabbing the floor to accept true duals with room to spare. Its only metal right?

Ill get the measurements and post em for ya though.

J.

 

Cool thanks. The car is pretty clos to done already. The y-pipe was tricky but he ended up welding directly onto the collectors and connected the two lengths into the actual y below the output shaft. Its actually not as bad as i thought it was going to be but it still definitely gives up a couple inches in clearance to the t56. Anyways still working on tuning the thing so if you do gt that dimension let me know it would be appreciated. Have a good one

cam-

 

I have the same awful tick that I can hear in drive thrus and such. Then I added my cutout. Sick ride!

 

Cam,

Took a couple measurements.

From the ground to the top center of the front wheel arch, its about 26.75".

From the top of the tire, to the top center of the wheel arch, its about 2".

From the top of the tire, to just inside the wheel arch (inside the lip), its about 2.5".

I took crappy pics with my cell phone but they arent worth much. I dont have any way to upload them right now...

My set up for reference is Eibach Pro Kit springs with stock isolators.

J.

 

PERFECT! Thanks Justin

You certainly are one of the few guys you can ALWAYS count on to help out fellow board members. Have a good weekend

cam-

 

No problem cam.. However I think I made a typo... The measurement from the tire to the top of the arch should be 2"...and to inside the lip should be 2.5".. Since the plastic liner is a bit higher than the metal lip.

Ill fix the post...hope it helped some!

J.

 

hey i have asked this befor. but where did you get that ls1 front brake kit at?

 

you can get them from a couple of places. ebmiller on here is probably the best source, though maybe not the cheapest. his site is www.flynbye.com

the other place i've known people to get them from is www.bigbrakeupgrade.com

 

I got mine from bigbrakeupgrade. It was cheaper when I got it..but the quality has been great. Came pre-assembled, painted, and ready to bolt in. I would have liked the bolts to be safety wired...or at least pre-drilled. Because I tried to drill them myself and gave up very quickly haha.

J.

 

what size spacers you running for front? and rear?

 

1.7" in the front. None in the rear since Im running a 4th gen 12-bolt. Couldnt be happier with the brake/stance/wheel position set up that Im running.

J.

 

Whats up everyone. Well...she's back under the knife. First an update on my vehicle situation. Found out my job is closing its doors soon. And Im getting married next weekend... So Im in panic mode right now haha. I have a loan out on my 01 jeep. Im selling my 01, and my 94 lifted cherokee, and hopefully at the very least breaking even on my loan. Ide like to pocket some money, but just getting out of the loan payment, and not having to carry full coverage will help.

Im buying a 2000 Jetta from a friend for $500. I dont like Jettas... haha. Would have never bought a VW in my life I dont think. But, for the price, the MPG, the comfort, and the cheaper insurance...I cant pass it up. Its not a bad car though. So now Im trying to get the TA back on the road, so I can sell my other jeeps, and get started on the Jetta. It needs a little work here and there.

Anyway. Back to the topic at hand. For a while, out of the blue, Ive been hearing a crazy sound from my trans/clutch area. It only happened when the clutch was pushed in, and it would happen in between gears. It only happened around 2000 rpm. But it was NASTY sounding. Sounded like something was broken, or vibing or something. Just not good. You could feel it in the whole car.

So...here's what I was running. Autozone slave, bronze pilot bushing, LS7 clutch, TICK master cylinder.

Here's where I might have screwed up. When I removed the trans from the bell housing a while back, one of the dowels stayed in the bell housing. I didnt think of it until it was back in the car. Figured it was ok. Well...I dont think the input shaft was lined up properly...or it fell out of alignment shortly after install. Then...most recently, I bled the crap out of the clutch. I think I might have the TICK adjusted too far out, and I think it started to take its toll on the slave clyinder. So here's some pictures...then some explaination of what I found. I also need some help from the trans gurus...

New addition to my wooden arsenal. Now I can jack up the front wheel, and put this in place of the ramp. So I can get in and out from the side.



The new trans jack. This thing would have worked fantastic if my header collectors didnt get in the way. My fault, since I built them...





Can already see problems...



Clutch looks ok, but I didnt get the bellhousing or clutch out. I think the pilot bushing might be toast. BUT, I think Im glad I used a bushing instead of the bearing. Because if the input shaft was moving around, the bushing probably saved it.



Notice a few things. Ugly looking throwout bearing. Grease/fluid all around it. A ring or piece of the slave just floating on the input shaft. Moisture around the casing towards the bottom.





Next to the new GM unit that Ive had for a while.



Now, something I noticed. I feel like the input shaft has a LOT of lateral play. It doesnt seem to have any endplay, but I can wobble the thing around pretty good. Here is a video that should illustrate my point.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1Rk43g8TO0

My question to the trans guru's... Some say that lateral movement is ok, as long as there isnt much endplay. Some say that what I have is normal for a used trans...but excessive if it were a fresh trans obviously. So what say you? Im thinking if I get the dowels engaged properly, and a new pilot bushing, that might be runnable. Which would make me VERY happy, because its no money out of my pocket really. I already have the slave cylinder. Im wondering if the piece fallling off the slave is what happens when you overextend the slave? No one can seem to say how you can tell if you are over extending the slave...they talk about it, but cant describe how to know.

Any input fellas? (no pun intended).

J.

 

WHOA!

I think you've found your problem. My guesstimation would be that the alignment issues you may have had is the source but the input shaft wobble is definitely WAY too much. I can see that without even checking mine but I just went and grabbed it as a reference and I cannot visibly see ANY lateral wobble or side side play in mine. Your trans or at minimum your input shaft bearing is certainly in need of a rebuild.

The good news is its not really that difficult Im sure you can do it yourself. Thanks to Sheldon I was hooked up with thegearbox dot org who has great pricing and superb customer service on t56 rebuild parts. I bought upgraded everything aside from my shafts and gears Im sticking with the stockers.

Further good news is once you get this rebuilt and back together I think your shifting issues will finally be done with.

One more thing I noticed iirc ( its been a while now ) but that slave looks like it may be the older version that was causing grief. Not sure though I turfed mine years ago.

Anyways good luck on the build. Sorry to hear about your job.

Heres a great trans build link from tech

http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...-write-up.html

 

Yeah...its not pretty haha.

Ive been getting back and forths about the play in that shaft. The trans that you have out that you felt...is that a fresh rebuild?

The funny thing is, I have no end play. Just the lateral movement. A few guys have told me that as long as the end play is in spec, the lateral movement isnt that important since the pilot bushing/bearing holds it all straight. Which didnt happen since my dowel was out.

I looked on all the normal trans sites, but couldnt find just bearings. I know I should just rebuild the whole trans...but its just not in the cards right now. And the Stage II kits (which Ide need) dont include bearings.

Im not sure I want to tear the trans apart, just to replace the bearings. But on the other hand, it might be fun to tear it apart and put it back together, so when I rebuild it, I know what Im doing. I gotta price out the bearings I guess.

Shimming the trans scares me a little. Not sure I grasp the concept of whats going on with all the shims in the trans. Im sure I can figure it out, but still intimidates me. Its actually the last frontier for me. Ive NEVER rebuilt a trans...auto or manual. I can say Ive done everything else on a car.

Just wish I knew if it would be ok. Even if it got me by for a while until I figure out my job situation, and hopefully get a house soon.... Then I can think about rebuilds, because the motors gotta come out for some tinkering too.

J.

 

No its still OEM with about 80k miles on it. Its just as tight laterally as it is longitudinally. As for differing opinions on the play you have? I have had autos with similar play on the output shaft and run them without bother but this was just on beaters nothing high hp. I suppose theres little harm in getting a new pilot and ensuring your dowels/alignment etc. are on the money and stuffing it back in so long as the bearings in the trans seem smooth. Worst case scenario is your pulling it back out sooner rather than later but maybe this isnt all bad right no especially considering what your company is doing maybe this is your best option.

I should note too that as I age I get more and more stringent about all my operations and things I build etc. I just cant stand having to redo work I've already done so Im always freaking out about things like this and trying to fix them and forget about them.

All said and done though it must be a huge relief for you now to have finally found the smoking gun that has led to your shifting and clutch woes

 

Well, the smoking gun has yet to be confirmed... But it certainly is a glimmer of hope that I might finally have a good shifting car.

The thing spins nice and smooth, even void of all fluid. I didnt see any wobble, or hear any noise.

And I agree with you 300%... I hate doing the same job twice because I didnt do it right the first time. And Im not one to just do things "good enough". But this is just temporary. I already know the trans and motor is coming back out at some point. So if this will make it to that point, Ill be happy.

I dont plan on beating on the car from here on out. Until I re-work the motor/trans at a later date. I need it now, more than ever, to be my DD until I get the Jetta up and running. It just needs some small things done to pass inspection, so it shouldnt be too bad.

Someone over on TECH mentioned that the slave cylinder that I had in there might have been missing something. Im not so sure, I think that the throwout bearings are just different styles. But he seems to think there's a cap on there that isnt on the one that I took out...or on the one that I took out before when I did the LS7 clutch. If he's right, then Ive been missing out on some throw from my slave...which could also have been causing me issues. But I feel thats not the case.

Ill be going over on Thursday to pull the bellhousing and the clutch, just to check all of that out. I promised Amy that I wouldnt let anything fall on me or cut myself too bad. Or at least cut myself in a spot that will show up in pictures on saturday haha. So Ill save the rest of the work from when we get back from vacation. Fingers crossed on this...

J.

 

Whats up folks. Pulled some more parts off tonight. Got the clutch off, and it actually looks ok. Still fresh surfaces on the flywheel and pressure plate. Tons of meat on the disc still.





I can now say that I think this was the culprit.



That puppy was flush with the bell housing. No engagement at all with the trans... My stupid mistake for not fixing it when I noticed it. Not sure what I was thinking there.

So....trans clocked slightly, not lined up. Now we've got binding against stuff...mainly the pilot bushing. Whats that look like you ask?

Here's a new one on the install tool...what it should look like.



Annnnnd here's what I pulled out.







Pretty huh? One thing is for sure. Im VERY VERY glad that I used a pilot bushing instead of a bearing. That bearing would have tore my input shaft to shreds, and Ide really have to rebuild the trans. As it is...the bushing took all the abuse, and notified me that something was wrong by making horrid noises haha. Input shaft snout still looks great, and the new pilot bushing fits nice and snug like it should.

Ladies and Gentlemen...ALWAYS...ALWAYS double and triple check those dowels!!! Clean the holes in the bell housing, and use a little lube so they slide in. The holes in the bell housing are through holes. You CAN push the dowels into the bell housing thinking they are going into their holes...So make sure you clean everything, and it all slides together nice.

One issue I found was oily mess on lots of parts. The bell housing, front of the trans, and even the clutch pressure plate fingers. I was thinking it was the slave cylinder leaking, but there was too much and I wasnt losing any clutch fluid. So I pulled the flywheel to check the RMS. It looks dry, but nothing else does haha.





My only theory is that when I was running a breather, I was seeping oil all over the place, and it was blowing back and going in through the starter opening. Thats where it looks like it originates from...the starter bulge. I havent really checked too much to see if anything else is leaking on the block, but Im gonna clean it up real good and put it back together.

So thats where Im at. Wedding on Saturday, then vacation. The week that I get back, she's going back together and Ill have a full report with pictures and video. I fully expect it to drive like a dream, at least for a little while. I mean..it lasted over 2 years, or more like it was. So with everything lined up, I should be good for at least that.

J.

 

Glad to hear you found the problem. GL with your wedding.

 

lucky you used a bushing. cant wait to hear how the car drives after this mess.

have a great wedding!

~Steven

 

I see this

In your near future

 

Haha I was doing that with the broken parts cam. I dont think they have a emoticon that expresses what Ill be doing if this makes it run like it should lol.

Thanks for the well wishes fellas! Less than 24 hours now. Im sitting here in my apt by myself wishing tomorrow was here already. Beer from the rehearsal dinner has my nerves in check.

As much as Im looking forward to going on vacation next week, I cant wait to get back and put my car back together!!!!

J.

 

God Bless brother, and good luck! Hope you and yours are blessed as much as my wife, and I have been

 

Whats up everyone.

Well... Im married. And I FINALLY got some time to get the car back together. haha. Today was beautiful weather wise. Im still feeling under the weather from a cold that knocked me on my butt, but I had to get something done. Turns out...I got a LOT done.

First things first before I tell you results. I had to do the ANTI anti-venom mod. If you dont know what the anti-venom mod is, google it. Its pointless to me, and made my shifter feel vauge and unsporty. You want a non-notchy shifter? Get a Civic or something.

Here's the bolt if you dont know...



And pulled out with the washers on it. Those are in the bottom of my trash can now.



Next I had to replace the rear output seal. I decided to use a Timken seal vs. a GM seal...we'll see what happens. They are quite different. The stock seal doesnt have a flange, and has a dust boot that extends out. The Timken has a flange, and is just a regular flat seal.

Cleaned up.



This is a step that some people dont take. But from my experience working on jeeps, and regularily replacing seals, its one that I take every time. Just a smear of RTV around the seal.







Annnnnnnnd... (skipping some steps). She's IN!!!



Everything back together, clutch bled, master cylinder adjusted, etc etc. Just need to clean things up since the car has been sitting, and clean the interior up.

She's back undercover waiting for next weekend when I pick her up and bring her home



Anyway... I tried to take a video of how it shifts, but my camera wasnt cooperating. I got 8 seconds of useless video, where I pull a gear at the very last half second before it cuts off. So not worth posting.

HOLY...CRAP... I wish I would ahve done this earlier. The trans still needs to be freshened up, but WOW. Completely different car. Each shift feels EXACTLY the same. Crisp, smooth, and easy to get into gear. I felt no inconsistancy in the pedal, or in the way the shifter moved gear to gear the entire time I drove it today.

Cruising, downshifting, hammering on it... No matter what it feels great. It even feels like the clutch is grabbing better. I can even shift down into first much sooner than before haha. I think there was some oil on things. I cleaned it best I could, but we'll see how it lasts.

I re-adjusted the tick master cylinder. Its about half the travel that I had it set at before. But it engages at about half travel, and feels nice and smooth. So Im gonna leave it like that for now.

Ill try to get some videos soon. Probably going to need the wife to film. Just for fun. I still have a ton of projects on the car. Including paint, HIDs, interior odds and ends, new injectors, tune etc etc. So Ill be updating again Im sure.

J.

P.S.... CHECK YOUR TRANS DOWEL PINS!!!!!! haha.

 

Strange on the washer mod, I was planning to do it on the T56 I get

Time to reconsider

 

I used a pilot bearing instead of a bushing because I couldn't find any stores that carried a bushing the day that I was installing the motor and trans in the car, of course you know I couldn't wait to order one, I had to get it in the car THAT DAY.

 

Pocket: You can try it. You can install/remove the bolt while the trans is in the car. Just takes a little goofing with the right ratchet/socket combo. I use a 3/8" short breaker bar type deal.

Some will swear all day it makes the trans smoother, but it just felt loose and flimsy to me.

Nick: I cant believe you couldnt find the bushing. Most of the parts stores around me dont stock the bearing. What did you try looking up the bushing under? If I dont have the part number, I always tell them '69 Camaro with a 350. Same bushing.

Forgot to mention. I abandoned the Mobil 1 for plain old Coastal Dex fluid. Saw no reason not to use the plain jane stuff...always worked best for me before.

I cant wait to drive her again next weekend to see if its still driving as good. Hopefully what I experienced yesterday wasnt just a fluke occurance haha.

J.

 

Welcome to the smooth shifting club!

Glad you were able to sort that out finally, I now how I felt after I had mine rebuilt, and I didn't go through half what you have. Time to have some fun in the twisties

 

Yeah man. We'll find out tonight if its still driving good. Im dropping off the Jetta that I bought and picking up my TA. I might try to get some more videos if my camera will co-operate. Might even be HD videos if my wife lets me use her pretty red camera hahaha.

I still need a rebuild. It still shifts a little stiff. I think the synchros might have taken a beating during this whole ordeal, because I was just sort of making it shift haha. Ill be doing a Stage II Tick-Shift kit when the motor and all comes out. Then its on.

J.

 

Man, I did a simple swap from TPI to Carb and was pulling my hair out at time. Hell of a job on all that, I cant imagine doing all what you did! I wish I had half the knowledge and know how you do. Looks great, I hope the tranny issues are all solved for you!

 

Wow...not a good day. Hydrolocked my car on the way home. Was hardly above idle, if not at idle when it shut down. And I didnt try to start it. Got her towed home. About to go out and pull the plugs and drain the oil to see whats what. F me..

Who was the guy in the chevy that stopped to try to help me??? He knew my car...not sure if he was on here or not. If you are on here....give me a shout!!

Justin

 

Water up the intake??

 

Wow that's not good.

How did that happen? Were you cruising along on the road at low RPM's and just hit a huge puddle or something?

 

IF...you mean by hydrolocked that your engine ingested water and stopped running you may have damage that will not be readily recognizable. On a July 4th weekend in 1988 when my car was two years young I drove into what I though was relatively shallow standing water a little while after a small Houston, Texas downpour. Mistake! Water got sucked into the dual inlet TPI filtered air intake and the motor just stopped running with relatively no drama. It started right back up but just didn't seem right and I could hear a faint click. I pulled onto a side street and quick inspection revealed light brown thin instant pudding in the crankcase. After getting help and and an oil/filter change later It was running fine but still with that faint click. Dealer mechanic teardown later that week presented me with a connecting rod with a bend/offset in it that was hitting the inside of the piston skirt. I still have that rod as a reminder to never go through any standing puddles equal to or greater than the footprint of my car.

Check everything...