low 12's @ 114-116 (limited by drag radials and the ten bolt.) Black ZR1's look sinister!!!!

 

I have a helmet LOL

I may let out of it towards the end until I get my launching down and then get kicked out on my last run haha

Surprisingly no! I wasn't sure they were gonna fit actually, but it was a nice suprise that they fit great. I'm wanting to get some 11" rear wheels now.

 

x.x we get this all day at work a supra was running 14's all day and then on his last pass BLAM 9.3 seconds i dislike having to kick people out lol

 

you ever get a rearend?????

 

Not yet. I moved into a new house and have been busy getting it all situated like I want it, and my next thing that got bumped up on the priorities list is getting the slave cylinder replaced because my clutch issue hasn't been resolved even with the tick master cylinder. I'm hoping to be able to get a rear end in the spring in time for summer driving. I just got a nice new job and am really thinking about pulling the motor out next winter and stroking it out to a 408 and getting the heads worked over by TEA and getting a FAST intake/TB. My n/a goal after a rear end is 550rwhp, which shouldn't be a problem.

A friend of mine has a 408 with afr 235's and is at 535rwhp, and his car is a lot heavier than mine, and when I raced him I was staying right at his bumper. I'd like to see what it would do with another 130rwhp

 

This should jump-start my savings towards more parts. I picked up another car today and I'm going to decide in a few days whether it's going to get parted out or sold. It all depends on if I can get a title for it and if I'm able to have a dealer use the VIN to make an ignition key. It's a black on black ttop 305TBI / 5spd 1992 Camaro RS. I picked it up on the cheap. I'm really hoping I can get it titled (all I have is a bill of sale) and get a key made so I can make some really good money on it. I'll still come out pretty nice if I have to part it out too though. It should get me started towards my rear end and some other things I want to do to the vert

 

just saw this and looks bad ***!

 

Bluezee I saw your dyno chart somewhere and came here to see what heads you put on it. I assume you put the stock 317's back on it with 918 springs but there was no definative statement of this information?

 

I used stock 317's, they're not ported or anything, just milled enough to give the decks a fresh surface. And I used the PRC dual valve springs if I remember correctly, I've got it written down on a receipt somewhere but I know I didn't use the Comp 918's because I heard some horror stories about them, and the PRC duals looked like a good set to go with.

 

I've been storing up goodies in the closet in my office at home like a squirrel stores nuts. I'm waiting for the 8.8 housing to be fabbed up for me then I'll buy the bearings and Moser axles to go along with these little numbers (won't have any issues with broken rear ends this time around)








And these just came in the mail tonight, brand new, bought them off another TGO member at a price I couldn't say no to.








Is anyone else getting as anxious for warm weather as I am?

 

i am.. but to bad i wont be around to drive the ta.. my vert roller is for sale if interesed just pm me..

 

I saw that, that's unfortunate man. I'm sad to see your project abandoned.

 

You don't even know I've started a wheelbarrow full of stuff myself.

 

I took out my whole wiring harness on Monday and shipped it to Pocket to get redone (make it more tidy), since I had done some of the soldering and looming myself and made it look like Medusa's hair-do. While I was under the car I noticed a lot of coolant on the floor, but in a wierd place. It was right in the middle of the car...with a very small puddle under the water pump. I'm thinking my lower radiator hose was leaking because I used that F150 or F250 hose and it was too big. I'm hoping that's the only place it was leaking and it's not something worse....there was also a very very small amount of transmission fluid on the ground, the front end of the driveshaft had some evidence of fluid on it at some time, but there wasn't enough fluid on the ground to make me scared. I'm thinking it might have happened when I had my rear end out of the car last summer, who knows.....


I'm more worried about the puddle of coolant...the radiator was half full.

 

Nick... Everytime I see your engine bay, and a couple others...I get REALLY tempted to ditch my A/C and go with a heater only box. I think I used my A/C like twice...when the car was on the road during the summer haha. It was really nice to have it. But Im starting to have the same thought as with my Jeep. I only really NEED 4x4 maybe half a dozen times out of the year. So is it work getting poor MPG the rest of the time? So I sold it... Im thinking the same on the A/C.

It cleans it up so nice. Ive been contemplating seeing if someone would buy my a/c set up, custom HVAC box, and modified k-member for cash+their stock k-member. Less work for me...less work for them haha.

Car is looking good as always! I want mine back on the road NOW!!! haha.

J.

 

Are you going to redo those heater hose lines, it will clean engine bay up.

 

Yea I'm gonna get new ones and flip them around so the 90* is at the firewall instead of the water pump. Then I should have an easier time putting the coil covers on.

 

I'm not abandoning my project I'm just switching shells to one that has full subframes welded in along with an 8 pooint cage and no body damage n no rust!

 

I like your thinking. Lol

 

Looks awesome as always Nick! I like the 90 bends at the heater core idea. The tailshaft seal is probably worn, hence why fluid is on the DS. Coolant coming from the middle of the engine area though, that's weird. Sure the coolant didn't come down from the heater core outlets?

 

I just pulled my L98 to start an LS1/t56 swap. I'm familiar with the Tick MC and I've been trying to find out if it would work in a 3rd gen because I thought I had read somewhere that it wouldn't. So far yours is the only 3rd gen I know of that has one. Do you have any pictures of it installed?

 

I think ghettocruiser has one too. I don't have a picture of it but it fits just like a stock mc. I had to take the booster out to get mine positioned though because the base is quite a bit larger than a factory mc.

 

Ok cool, I figured if anything the base of it might hit the booster but if you made it fit then I feel comfortable ordering one. I'll go ahead and order one before I put the engine and trans in.

 

I have one as well. I had to hammer on the wheel well a bit to make it fit because, as Blue said, the base is huge compared to stock, but it works great.

 

No issues with the booster at all.

If your car is originally a 5spd, it should bolt right in no issues. If you converted to manual trans, and cut the holes for the master cylinder, you might find yourself having to clearance the wheel well a little. I had to tap on my wheel well a tad, and cut away some of the seam sealer to make my TICK fit. Its not a big deal and your mileage may vary on the modifications to make it fit.

J.

 

I'm not sure how many of you guys venture into the convertible section of the forum, but I wanted to show you all what I've been working on while the car is on jack stands.

These first couple pictures were taken a few months ago:







Made some progress today, finally. This is the first time I have ever messed with fiberglass, and my dad hasn't used it in years, so it's a learning experience for sure.


We got the foam cut down and shaped to where it was ready for the fiberglass.









We also trimmed off the back side of the center two columns to make it meet the back edge of the trunk lid instead of hangin over a half inch or so. It will look a lot better this way. So we trimmed that down and filled those two sections with foam, let it dry then shaped it also. Then everything got fiberglass.










Tomorrow I'm planning on starting the body filler step, and getting it close to ready to spray with primer. I've got a lot of grooves and gouges to get rid of in the "paint" that's on it already. It's got literally like 4 different colors of paint on it and it's all flaking off, and there's spots where it looks like someone took a grinder to it, so it's gonna need a lot of work still, but it should be done in a few weeks since I really only have time to work on it on weekends.

 

Cool side project Nick. Now you just need to mold a hardtop / ttop onto the car to make it perfect

jk

 

Never!!!

 

The bondo step is about done, just needs a few scratches filled from the sand paper and the screw driver that the person I got it from apparently used on the top side of it.


Tomorrow I'm hoping to get it in primer and start filling holes on the trunk.

 

Pretty cool. Did you use expandable foam for the whole wing?

 

Yea on the parts that were cut, the spoiler is hollow. Then we put fiberglass over it.

 

Just a quick update, I'm working on 3 different projects at the moment and trying to finish them up before the last weekend in April so I can take the car to a big car show in central MO.

1) the spoiler/trunk lid is coming along real nice. I'm picking up some paint tomorrow and should be able to get it 99% finished this weekend

2) the harness is finished, as soon as I get it back from Jon it's going back in the car and will look 10x cleaner than how I had it before, I'm really excited about that!

3) Should have my custom 8.8 here in maybe 2 weeks, I already have all the internals for it at my house so once I get the housing shipped to me it's getting assembled and my dad and I are going to be playing musical rear ends. My 3.42 4th gen 10 bolt is going in his '89 IROC-Z and I'm selling the 4.10 4th gen 10 bolt that's currently in his car.




Mmmmmmmmmm Moser

 

gatta love shiney new parts!!! and that spoiler turned out great.. much better then shaving the side spoilers.. u have a pm also

 

Thanks, I really hope I can get some paint on it so I can finally see the finished product. I really wanna drive the thing, I only put probably 1,500 miles on it since the swap and now it's under the knife again lol

 

yea those lil 10 bolts werent the best thing gm could have stuck in there huh lol

 

Who is making your custom 8.8 rearend, seems like it would be fairly cheap for the swap.

 

It's Cam from this board, who made some of the swap stickies.

By the time I pay my guy to assemble it and set up the gears and including the price of all the parts, I'll have about $2,400-$2,500 in it(including what it costs to ship the housing from Canada) but I didn't go the cheapest route possible. Some have pulled their trak-lok posi units from Explorers with 4.10's and saved some money that way, but everything I bought was brand new and the posi unit is the Cobra unit with carbon fiber clutches. I figured if I'm gonna spend over $1,500 on a rear end I'm gonna make the best of it. I won't be breaking this one for sure. The axles are 31 spline too.

 

Cam is a good guy, no problems dealing with him. I was going to buy an 8.8 built by him when I had my 95 Z but sold the car off and now my IROC has a 9"

Money spent on a solid rear end is the biggest peace of mind. Knowing you can just thrash the go pedal and not have to have that voice in the back of your mind saying "ohh noo the 10 bolt!!!"

 

The splines on my 31-spline Moser 9" axles are twisted about half a spline. Stock 2000 LS1/T56 w/headers, LS6 intake, LS7 clutch, 4.10 gears, sticky tires.

 

It's better to break an axle than to break anything else in the rear end.

 

I got my harness back from Jon today, and was going to start putting that in the car tonight but then I took off the water pump instead

The car had a bad coolant leak coming from somewhere, I am thinking it may have been from two places actually. One of the water pump gaskets was brownish-orange on the outer edge which made me think it got wet, but when I pulled off the pump the metal gasket wasn't popped or anything. Maybe I just didn't have the pump torqued down correctly (I know I didn't because I simply used a socket wrench and tightened them up without any torque wrench). Also, my lower radiator hose which is the Ford F250 hose for an '89 or whatever year it is, is NOT working out. I think it may have helped contribute to the leak as well. It's wayyyyyyyyy too big in diameter which I kinda knew, but now I'm on the hunt for something else that will work better.

Has anyone else had good luck with a stock '98 LS1 fbody lower radiator hose? That's what my dad is using but I know his pitman arm is lowered all the way because his car was having issues getting an alignment, so I don't know if that's why his fit or what.

 

I actually have one of those that I tried out first. One end was way to small and I could not get it to slip on(even with the help of grease). I'm also using the stock radiator. I also tried just about every method I could think of to stretch the end open with no success. But if it matters I bought mine for a 2000.

 

im using the stock ls1 hose for a 98-02 I just flipped it around. you want the big end on the radiator and the small end on the t-stat

what tq arm mount are they installing on the 8.8? I went with the s60 rear it bolted right up and it was cheaper.

the W/P gaskets like to leak on ls truck motors.

 

What do y'all think about the spoiler? It's not mounted yet, just sitting on the trunk, I still have to do a little more tweaking but I think I can finish it up this weekend.

 

Spoiler turned out pretty good! Those Zo6's look tight, too!

 

Thanks! There's gonna be a lot of new things with the car this summer I can't wait till I can get it out of the garage and get some really good pictures. It hasn't left the garage since the new wheels yet.

 

Looking good. We need a nice side pic with the top down.

 

Loving the z06 wheels

 

Sweeeeeet!

 

Man that wing turned out nice!