DBLTKE

iTrader: (1)

This thread is going to be about my engine swap that I spontaneously decided to do. Here's a little background first. For the past couple months I had been struggling to pass DEQ. Replacing many parts and sensors and doing many tests on my LB9. I gave up once I figured out that the reason why I wasn't passing is due to a leaky injector. I started weighing my options at the time, then one day while I was at work (Portland International Raceway) one of my friends and fellow racer told me about a smoking deal he just came across. He had picked up a complete LT1 dropout from a '95 Camaro with 90K on the clock including the wiring harness, sensors, and ECU. The kicker is that he scored it for only $400. He pulled the valve covers, intake, and oil pan to check everything out, he said that everything looked to be in amazing condition especially for having 90K miles on it. He had no plans to use the engine and only picked it up in order to pass along this great deal. He offered the setup to me for the same price or for anyone else for $500. So after thinking about it I decided that I wanted to do the swap, since it would be killing several birds with one stone.

The engine I will be swapping in is an LT1 from a '95 Chevy Camaro. The engine it is replacing is an '87 LB9 which is in my '85 Z28. A swap that was done prior to my possession of the car. So I take delivery of the engine tomorrow morning. I have been researching like crazy in order to find out every single obstacle that I could possibly run into.

- I took out my A/C components on my car and the person that's selling me the engine is including an A/C delete pulley so that avoids the A/C problem.

- He had already put AN fittings onto the intake in anticipation of using braided fuel lines. I'll most likely just follow the path he started and just use braided lines to connect to the hard lines on the frame.

- I'm going to be using my 700r4 transmission until I can get the funs for a T56 swap. So as I understand it I'll need a TB bracket from a '93, TV cable from a '93, a World Magnetics PSF101 vacuum switch. and a 4l60e vss and reluctor. I'll reuse my flex plate from the LB9. I'll be doing some JY searching to get some of those parts.

- For the power steering I should use either a 94-96 Impala or Caprice SS pressure lines and just use some generic PS hose for the return line.

- For the radiator hoses I'll use 87-93 Mustang 5.0 upper hose and install it in place of the lower hose and I'll use either a '95 Roadmaster or '95 Camaro upper hose.

- I trying to wrap my brain around the whole wiring harness but I just can't understand most of the stuff in the searches I've done and think it'll just make more sense as I see it in front of me. I'll take this one step at a time and try to figure out the wiring schematics.

I do have one question though. In my efforts to pass emissions I replaced a lot of sensors on my LB9 and would hate for them to go to waste. Are there any sensors from an '87 LB9 that would be compatible and swappable to a '95 LT1?

I think that covers everything. If I left out anything, even if it seems like it should be common sense knowledge, speak up. I hate working on something only to find out that there was something else I needed and no one said anything about it.

Rich2279

iTrader: (7)

I've heard the Mustang upper hose will work for the Camaro lower hose, but a lot of guys use the '92/'94 Corvette lower hose. I compared pictures of both hoses (Mustang and Corvette hose from Autozone) and they look completely different. Did you find anyone w/ pictures who has used the Mustang hose?

JeremyNYR

iTrader: (2)

I was able to use the donor power steering hose from a 95 Z28 in my 84 T/A. I just had to bend the hard line from what I recall. I attacked the wiring the same way you did. It's overwhelming to look at all of it at once. Go one wire at a time! I did maintain the underhood fuse box in my swap, but removed all the wires for options i didnt use. Basically, the underhood fuse box now just runs the fans and injectors from what I remember off the top of my head. I suggest taking it in small steps. first label all of your power supplies and grounds. Then label and plan out all of your guage wiring. Then attack the fuel pump. That one was a tough one for me. Be aware that you'll have to disable the VATS system in the PCM if you didn't get the dash wiring harness with it to include the VATS module.

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

Wiring is not that bad IIRC around 8-10 wires to hook up.

JeremyNYR

iTrader: (2)

I had atleast 20 if not closer to 25 or 30 to complete the swap. The guages alone have atleast 10 wires.

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

Yea I guess on the older models they maybe more to hook up.