You should be able to splice them into the factory harness. My car didn't have an in-tank electric pump, so I had to run a new wire for that. But, I used the original fuel sender wires up to the instrument panel (which uses an aftermarket gauge).

 

Mine did not have an in-tank pump either. So i just took the wiring that goes from the front to the tank from the 4th gen and put it in mine.

 

Ok im debating on PCM mounting locations. the wire harness is a stock length.
Were is a good place under the hood? Where is a good place behind the dash?

 

I am putting mine in the stock location, stock harness routing. Pocket did my harness and he put wire extensions so I could do this.

 

Stock routing requires about 5 feet of extension. Thats alot of soldering

Under dash through a hole under the HVAC box requires about 1/3 of the wires to be lengthened 2-12" and a good many more shortened. A stock 4th gen harness puts the PCM on the HVAC box or right next to it. Not ideal for a clean looking install

 

Got alot done today.

Wiring harness is done
4th gen gas tank and fuel lines are in
Put the rear suspension back together
Started cleaning the K-member for paint and some othe minor things done
The 4th gen tank fit no problem, cut 2 inches off the rubber part of the filler net for a perfect fit. The line needed to be cut to get two 90 degree bends out and i also bent it a little bit till it fit how i wanted it to, not hard though.
The engine wire harness wasn't hard if you know how to play with wires and pocket's advice is very helpful THANKS!!

Pics for the day

 

subscribing. What engine did your IROC have originally anyway?

 

305 4bbl carb lol, got swapped to a 350 carb and now the LS1

 

Todays update features a clean and painted k-member and some 4th gen seats.
The driver seat is out because I still need to switch the power seat wires to the 4th gen plug.

Also ran the 4th gen fuel pump wiring from the tank to the firewall.
Going to start the dash wiring tomorrow that will be fun.

PICS!

 

Little update today along with a nice little find.
Got almost all the under dash wiring done. still has to connect all the battery and grounds then i can put the dash back in.

My nice find was on the clutch master cyl.
Most people take the pedal pin off the 4th gen pedal and weld it into the 3rd gen pedal.
Well i was looking in the autozone help section today and found a pedal bushing that makes the 4th gen master cyl go right on the 3rd gen pedal pin.

Here is the passenger sire wiring using the 4th gen PCM connectors.
You can also see the fuel pump relay on the HVAC unit.

Here is the connector for the 4th gen gauge cluster and also the OBD2 data port.

 

Eww dash wiring

 

HAHA its really not hard at all

 

Yet another PCM question to Pocket LOL
The PCM has outputs for low speed and high speed relays. The way my fans are wired is that they are powered from a veary heavy duty relay. So when they are on they run at full speed.
Can i have both the high and low speed hook up to the relay so that when the PCM turns either on it will just kick the fans on or will that cause a problem in the PCM?

 

If you want the cooilng fans to come on high, you need 3 relays that are wired in series. The only thing the PCM does is provide a ground for the relays, I have posted a wiring diagram to wire up 3 relays:

 

Thanks for that, that means it grounds the fuel pump relay as well?
I think i know what i have to do now

 

Fuel pump is the exception to relay control, the PCM calls the 12v side

When I build a harness, I use one relay per fan, single speed. Generally I recommend the tune has one fan come on at a higher temp than the other. Using one very large relay to control both fans is fine as long as the relay can support the high load. With a single relay, only use one wire for fan control to the PCM. Low is default, but it makes no difference to the PCM. Once the temp is tripped, the pin will be grounded, relay attached or not

 

what would we do without you dude seriously

 

That's exactly how I did mine as well, I am running two relays. I can't remember what I had my fans set at to come on but I know my coolant temps have never broke 220 degrees.

 

Dash, cluster, and driver seat are in and all the wiring is done. Oh and cleaned up the engine bay a little bit.

 

Very nice man! These pics are tempting me to put a 4th gen dash in mine someday. What year Camaro did that dash come from?

 

It goes great with LS1 swaps IMO. its a 1995 Firebird dash with a 1999 LS1 Camaro gauge cluster actually

 

Yeah the bird dash's look 10x better than Camaro dash's IMO, actually I think the same of 3rd gen dash's too lol.

 

Not much done today due to rain but i got the clutch master cyl in.
I hold the LS1 master next to the 3rd gen master and here is how they compare.
The shaft that goes to the pedal is exactly the same length.
The mounting base is at the same angle and size.
the only real difference is that the LS1 master is slightly bigger in diameter, other than that they are identical. Even the u-bolt is the same.
Also the 3rd gen pedal peg worked fine with the a 3rd gen peg bushing in the LS1 master cyl.
Needless to say in went in easy and fit like it was from the factory that way, also the 3rd gen pedals did allow FULL travel of the clutch master cyl.

 

question on the throttle cable. Which one do i get? I know i can use a 4th gen non TCS but cant seem to find one. what universal kits work?

 

Lokars are the best trim to fit, but expect to pay for them

Stock 4th gen non-traction cables work, just be sure to match them to your TB. The throttle cam changed from early to late Fbodys and the cable length changed slightly

 

finally ordered all the rest of the parts i need! cant wait for that UPS truck

 

I suppose I'll make a list of my costs while I wait for my parts to get here.

1999 Camaro LS1 and T56 $1800
1999 Camaro PCM, Wire harness, seats, guage cluster, radiator, fans, gas tank, gas lines, driveshaft $500
Hawks Swap motor mounts, t56 crossmember, throttle cable, $300
Exhaust parts $250
Intake parts $100
Tune $150
Other odds and ends $300+

Total so far $3400

Costs include shipping

 

That's kool man.

Donor car looks good.

I did the same thing with my 91 camaro

i got a 99 donor car and used everything i could. I did a complete smog swap which i still need to wirer up the emissions and get a few other things done.

I used the
1. engine
2. auto tranny
3. Harness and PCM
4. rear end disk brakes
5. drive shaft
6. torque arm
7. radiator and dual fans
8. fuse boxes
9. gas tank and fuel lines
10. cluster, all i had to do some modify the 3rd gen dash a bit to make the cluster fit. Come out bad *** and got all my gauges to work just fine.

I cant think of anything else.

O BTW if you going to use the rear end i suggest taking off the e-brake cable because i forgot to and i need one so if you don't use it how much would u sell it to me for???

Also a FYI a good cleaning product to clean up that engine before putting it in is Simple Green damn thing works Magic. I put some on my tranny and that thing come out like new. Also check for any leaks and change out any gaskets before putting it in. I learned the hard way and had a oil leak on the rear main seal.

Car is coming out pretty good man keep up the good work and keep us posted.

-Mike

 

Im not using the 4th gen rear. simple green is some good stuff lol.
I got lucky the engine is a reman with only 10k miles on it

 

nice that's good man.

Hey how much you want for the 4th gen e-brake cables?

 

i didn't take them but i can ask the guy that has the 99 about them

 

Yeah if you can find out for me that would be great. And PM me when you find out.

thanks man

-Mike

 

i believe you need a different size. but they are very similar to fourth gen cables.

 

Even if i am using the 4th gen rear end??

 

yeah i dont recall . i dont think they're direct bolt on. i can be wrong though

 

I emailed the dude about the cables so i'll have an answer soon

 

he said $30 for the cables so i guess $40 with shipping

 

Parts started coming in today. the engine should be in the car tomorrow.

 

Motor and trans are in!!!
All thats left now is bleeding the clutch and brakes, radiator, exhaust, and other minor stuff.
built a new radiator support for the LS1 radiator too.

 

well cot the clutch bleed the old fashion way lol it was pretty easy. then my day was cut short with a trip to the ER after dropping a brake rotor on my band...4 stitches to my finger

 

its comin along good now, still need to build the exhaust.
I broke a spark plug wire putting the manifolds on...so if someone has an extra wire sitting around they feel like sending me that would be great.
on that note the car is sitting on its wheels again

More pics

 

Well I got the swap completely done today...with exception ot the alternator.
The alternator simply will not charge. I checked the wiring, checked it again, and again and its good. I even tried giving the exciter 12v directly and nothing. Anyone have any ideas to why its not charging?
It was running nice till the battery died ugh...

Anyway heres the pics of the final product and the exhaust.

 

Have the alt tested. It may be junk

Adding 12v directly to excite the alt will work for a short time before it burns it up

What type of chambered exhaust is that?

 

I'll try to get the alt off if the weather holds up...its raining
anyway i got the mufflers from http://www.classicchambered.com/

 

It was a bad alternator so it was an easy fix!! on that note the car runs GREAT!!!!!!!

 

Great... this is the second bad alt thread Ive suggested and both times my alt suddenly dies. Alteast its still under warranty

Darn thing hit 8 volts 80 miles from home though...
Long live the 8 y/o diehard that ran 72 of those miles without the alt

I wanna hear the sound clip!

 

Start up video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GU8YCEfl38

its kinda sad how a brand new alt was bad lol

 

wow your dash was lit up like a Christmas tree!! but the car sounded terrific.

 

That settles it. My LM1 resonator is getting replaced with a power stick

 

Dag-gone that sounds good! Man i cant wait to get mine done!