Lol That's one helluva bent pushrod! What happened!?

 

that's the NEW anti push version RIGHT.....
yikes!!! not good any other damage...

 

Ummmm.... looks a little bent....

 

don't bother, it'll just bend again!!!!!

 

Thats one of those new Hinged Variable valve pushrods right? Looks great!

 

Yeah...holy bend batman!!! Thats some serious pushrod carnage!

 

It's a new around-the-corner pushrod concept.

It's the #5 intake from the 2000 LS1 I'm preparing to put into Berlinetta #1. I was pulling the 853 heads for the shaved 317's I got ready for it. I pulled the rockers and pushrods from right bank and set them aside on a piece of cardboard. I pulled the left bank rockers, set them next to the right side rockers and pushrods, and was reaching over the engine pulling out the left side pushrods. When I got done, I only had 7 pushrods. I went over to the left side, and finally saw the pushrod stuffed in there. I pulled it out with a pair of pliers, then pulled the head. Found this:

#5 piston:



The plunger cap was in the #3 lifter guide.
(I set the lifter in the knock sensor well to get a picture of it)




The lifter guide isn't in too good of shape, either:




#3 piston also got kissed, but no other apparent damage:

 

I'm assuming it was a downshift over-rev (if that is even possible with a 4L60E). The car had been run into something (the front rims were bent), the seller said it was hit on the driver side (I never saw the car). Putting 2 & 2 together, I'm guessing a high-speed chase that ended with a crunch.

I turned the engine over by hand before loading it, but I probably should have done a compression check. The guy seemed nervous the whole time we were there (loaded it at a residence). When it was in the truck, he and his friend shut the garage door and took off while we were still tying it down in the bed.

I had already pulled the tranny pan and drained the fluid, no chunks or apparent excessive wear (and the fluid hadn't been freshly changed). So, hopefully the tranny is okay. Even if the engine is wounded, I got my money's worth with the accessories, tranny, PCM/harness, etc.

 

Can someone explain to me how a set of super-duper roller lifters...
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-perfor...parts/12499225

...cost less than a set of pushrods?
http://sdparts.com/details/lunati-ca...ranks/lun84015

 

Supply and demand

Most people who do a cam swap opt for upgraded pushrods, while not many replace the lifters. Also, the lifters are GM parts while the pushrods are aftermarket. SD has to be competitive with GM prices or people will just buy directly from them. The PRs can be marked up as much as he wants

How do the valves look for #3 and #5? Hows the cam lobe look for #5? Ive never seen a PR that messed up

 

The valves look fine. I haven't pulled them out of the head, but they don't look askew in the seats. Not that it matters much, I was planning on putting the other heads on anyway.

The #5 cam lobe is a little scuffed looking, but not as bad as I expected.

 

Buy the comp pushrods, they're cheaper. I got mine from texas speed for a good price. Shipped within a day as well, not like a local vendor who took 2 weeks I should have drove the hour and a half to get them.

 

If you need any used stuff, like a lifter guide, pushrod or lifter, I have spares. Just cover shipping. Or send me one good 2.00" intake valve.
I pulled 2 pushrods like that out of my L35 last month.
I wouldn't worry about the piston so long as you don't try nitrous. Just get some emery cloth to dress any sharp edges.
I also have an '01-'02 LS1 cam if yours is bad.

 

Trick flow rods are the best deal !!!!

 

Eh, I was just going to check the rest for bent or crushed, borrow what I need from the LQ4. It's getting all new LS7 lifters and whatever pushrods it needs for the L92 heads, so it won't miss them. Will have to get another lifter guide eventually, though.

 

Ditto. Thats all I run, or the Identical summit racing ones which are made by TF since they own them.

 

Appreciate it. Everyone seems to favor the '99-'00 cam over the '01-'02 version.

I wondered about using the LQ4 cam, but it's even tamer than the later LS1.

Hawks was selling an LS7 cam/pushrods/springs, but I didn't figure out the specs soon enough to jump on it. Was also a little concerned about the effects on the PCM tune.

 

Ready for a few facts? First, there is no '99-'00 LS1 cam. 3 different cams. The '98-'99 cam, the '00 'vette LS1 ca, and the '00 LS1 f-car cam. The LQ4 cam is the LQ9 cam is the '01-'02 LS1 cam. 3 apps, same stick. The '00 'vette cam is the best, in theory, with the most lift and the tightest LSA. But go ahead and rob the stick out of your LQ4.

 

Be careful using GEN IV cams in a GEN III engine. The cam sensor moves to the front so you need a timing cover, sensor and cam sprocket from a LS2. With all that, the cheap/free cam gets expensive quick

 

Did GM even make any gen 4 LQ4s?
My cam is from an '01.
196/207-116, 467/479

 

Better be. I'm wrong enough.

Peace. I was under the impression, without reinvestigating, that the '00 f-body cam was a little better than the '01-'02 LS1 cam. Put it with the LS6 intake and headers, you get a decent performer with factory parts.

Quick research last night indicated the LQ4 wasn't quite as good as the '01-'02 LS1 cam. I don't recall the numbers off the top of my head.

I looked for one for sale on line, came up blank. I think I'll just take a shot at it with the cam that's in the engine.

 

I wasn't upset, that's just the way I am when feeling conversational.
I pulled out my official GM cam reference info, and here's what it shows:
The '00 LS1 F-car cam indeed was the same as '99, so my mistake.
I've seen dyno results from TSP showing an '01 LS1 with AN '00 cam, ( not sure F-car or 'vette) and 1.75" LTs onto no muffs, hitting 400 horses. I think it was at 5600 rpm.
The '01-'02 LS1 F-car cam is 12561721
The '01-'03 LS1 'vette cam is 12561721
The '01-'04 LQ4 truck cam is 12561721
The '02-'03 LQ9 truck cam is 12561721
If you want any other related info, I'll be happy to post it.

 

The '00 f-body cam info is consistent with what I recall. I was doing calcs on the performance observed with Berlinetta #2 w/ '00 SS LS1/T56 (241 heads), guessing it was putting out in the 400 HP range. I was shifting at 6000, going through the traps at 5500-5600 RPMs.

So you're showing the LQ4 cam as being the same piece as the '01-'02 cam. Well, that's what I remember reading, but not what I came up with last night. Oh, well, that's the internet for you.

I got the engine down to the shortblock tonight (didn't expect to do that, but I'm still learning about these engines). Getting one of the torque converter bolts off took about half an hour - the Allen head was bunged up (no clue how that happened, the other 2 were fine), ended up welding (sacrificing) an 8mm Allen wrench to it just to get it loosened up: Cut the Allen wrench off after the bolt broke loose, turned it the rest of the way out. Grrrrr!!!!!!

With the pan off, checked the rods - they all seem fine. I didn't pull the caps, just looked at & rattled them. No pieces in the pan except for a couple of pieces of plastic from the lifter guide - no sparklies.

Pulled the cam, the #5 intake lobe was scuffed on the up ramp. Took a diamond stone to it to remove the high spots, I think it will be fine. The lobe profile wasn't chewed away or anything, the heel was completely untouched.

Oh, the timing chain was pretty floppy, so I'll be getting a new timing set (and timing cover gasket - this one didn't appear to want to be reused).

I have considered just putting the LQ4 shortblock in with the stock cam, f-body accessories, shaved 317 heads, LS6 intake, etc. Only concern I have with that is whether the PCM would be happy with it. Also, it has 147k miles on it, and a lot more oil crud deposits in it - most of that will have been cleaned up with the heads being worked over, and the pan being changed, though.

What do you think - would the '00 PCM (with the "normal" emissions things programmed out) be okay if it was asked to operate an '03 LQ4?

 

(I didn't think you were, I was just letting you know I wasn't going to argue with you.)

 

I'm not the expert on the calibrations, but in this case, I would go ahead and try it. After all, it does have exhaust oxygen sensors, knock sensors, and a mass airflow sensor. It might throw a code or 2 or 3, but if your injectors are adequate, nothing should be hurt.

 

What he said. Best deal hands down and a good product.

You also need to make sure the lenth is right. I see people with valvetrain geometry problems all the time because they just assumed the pushrods were the right length.

I would also tripple check that valve. That more than kissed. I'd put money its bent.

 

The valve may be bent, but that isn't of immediate consequence, since I've got a set of shaved, checked-out, and assembled 317's that are going back on.

I'll check valve train geometry for sure when it goes back together.