Can you recommend a good LT1 set? Also will my oil pan from my 305 work with this engine?

 

To be honest I cant because I havent personally done it to mine, my bottom end is still bone stock. But I wouldnt just take parts from other motors and swap it on the LT1.. Just find a good aftermarket timing set and you'll be good. As far as the oil pan im not sure

 

Well I wasn't going to reuse my timing set lol. I was going to purchase a new one. The reason that I'm asking what swaps over is to try and save as much as possible and properly modify things to work if need be. So that's why I asked about the oil pan, balancer and timing set could be used on an LT1 block.

 

Well I've got another update on my progress, I've purchased an "new" oil pan, timing cover and a few more items for the swap. More on the PAC valvetrain.... would I be ok to go with the 1219 spring or should I spend the extra cash and get the 1219x's? Also What's a good head gasket to use? I know my block has been milled a touch, I'm going to ask the machinist today how far he went and how far the piston's are down in the bore for a better idea of compression. I'm going to get the 12371043 timing set as to the fact that I am running an electric water pump and from the research I've done many guys have done the same with good results. I'm thinking about using the powerbond balancer for my setup, any thoughts on this?

 

I would lean towards the 1219x for beehives

 

Ok here's what's my valvetrain is going to be....

PAC-1219X SPRINGS
PAC-R310 RETAINERS
PAC-S111 SEATS
PAC-L8025 VALVE LOCKS

These valves.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310561832095...84.m1497.l2649
Also, I'll be using LS7 Lifters, could I get away with using my stock pushrods?
so what do you guys think?

 

Maybe its just me but I dont know about ebay valves... I know theres good parts on ebay but alot of them are mass produced chineese knockoffs(aka long tube headers). But who knows, maybe im completely wrong I havent tried them. Just do some research before buying them. But looks good, post pics!

 

From what the seller told me they are PEP valves. I haven't found any negative feedback on these vales so I'm not to worried about them. My next question is again, what would be a good brand of head gasket? Especially since it's a 383?

 

Ok so I've got another question, I'm looking at a set of head stud kits on ebay and I've found 2 names with the same part number. One's an ARP Head stud kit and another is a Herbert head stud kit. Here's the part number.134-4001 . The ARP is 170.00 and the herbert is only 99.99. Are they the same kit?

 

Not sure on head studs, i know a few guys buying ebay studs for LSx stuff that work well for 1/3 the price of ARP's but I only use ARP studs on my motors. For big power I wouldnt trust anything else without knowing the metallurgy of the studs. I would like to see them tested to verify they are the same quality and strength.

Head gaskets, on a fresh decked block and heads, I like MLS style. Expensive but easier to work with and reuseable if you need to, although I havent reused mine. I have run Felpro's with good success but heard their latest MLS with the blue coating isnt as good as the old style black coating. Some guys claim leaks but I used both with no issues. I now use Cometics.

 

i have used ebay head studs before and they were garbage. looked the same in the pics, and had the same tensile strength supposedly, but when i looked at them in person i realized the threads werent rolled like the arp studs are. also, the washers werent really hardened. on top of that, the washers were a larger diameter, and wouldnt fit the bolt seats in the heads very well. i had to actually grind the o.d. on some so they would fit down into the pockets. when loosening them back up, there was no "tink" sound like you get with the arp's.

basically, i felt they were worth about what i paid for them.... which was half the cost of the arps. i only buy arps now.

 

That's awesome too know thanks, I got the shortblock from the machine shop today and I'll be pttting the rest of the short block together tonight. Would it be beneficial to degree the XFI280 cam? or would I be ok just installing it by lining up the dots on the gears? Also, is there an easier way to install the pickup tube in the oil pump? that thing is a bitch to get in lol.

 

fwiw.
i have used 3 sets of the ebay head studs. seller abad71camaro.
i have a sbc and gen 4 ls set on the way now. one of the motors using the studs made 720rw with a tc78 and meth on a 6.0 ls motor. another one made 480rw n/a. some motors i built for local ls guys. im gonna use aluminum heads on a sbc and using these studs on it. on my ls motor im gonna use those studs. and i plan on 15psi.
they are still better than the pos felpro tty bolts that have been known to snap in the block. and better than the gm tty head bolts for the price

 

I've purchased quite a few things from that seller with good results. Might be a viable option for the head studs. I have another question. I noticed that there are TWO slots for keyways on my eagle crank. The one for the balancer is there but the one for the timing gear is missing. Where can I find one?

 

I just got off of the phone with the above mentioned ebay seller and asked them who the manufacturer of the heads studs were and they told me these were made by procomp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140927676806...84.m1423.l2649

What do you guys think about these?

 

Ok guys I have a few more questions. Getting back to the valves. I went ahead and bought the PEP valves and they look like good pieces. But.....now from the new research I've done it seems that the general consensus is that you don't want to run a 2.02/1.60 valve in an LT head but more of a 2.00/1.60 combo , is this correct? Also, I'm thinking about either boosting this engine or throwing some squeeze at it. It came with plasmamoly rings. How much of a shot/boost could I hit it with an be safe?