ssantac

Hi everyone,

I've been a member for a while now, and just lurking around trying to do some research. I'm in Glendale, Az (anyone else in my area?) and I have an 83 T/A with the crossfire 305. I got a lil bonus at work this year and want to start my LS conversion.

I'm looking at a 5.3 probably because everywhere I've looked the 6.0 is nonexistent. 2 in particular I have my eye on are from a couple 'fresh kills' as the junk yard says. One a 00 tahoe, the other 02 suburban, both are $1600 with engine, computer, harness and 4L60E tranny(2wd). Does this sound like a pretty good deal? Is there anything I should look for and avoid other than sitting in the dirt for who knows how long? I'm leary about getting one thats been sitting out cuz I'd like it to be a driver till I can save up to put some more go power in it.

I think I will go with a K member,subframe connectors and trans crossmember from spohn, and if he still does it, ask Pocket about doing up my harnesses. Other parts I have are a stock aluminum 3rd gen driveshaft that will prob need modified, Edelbrock lower trailing arms, Lakewood panhard bar, and I'm sure no longer needed but a stock wonderbar, and the stock oversized swaybars.

I guess thats all for now!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

If you can, buy a wrecked car from a private owner. Watch ebay and LS1tech.com like a hawk for about 2 months and you'll find something. You'll get a 5.7 or 6.0L or better that way. Then you can part out the car to get 1/2 money back or even more. And you won't be short any parts when you need them.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

A whole donor is the way to go. I pieced together a 5.3 and my $200 engine ended up about $1600 after buying all the little stuff to make it work. Thats LS1 territory

ssantac

Thanks for the advise! The problem I see with that is getting whatever it is home. Unless I get real lucky shipping a whole car is pretty pricey I'm sure. Thats why I'm trying to stay pretty local with everything. I mean Lord knows I wouldnt mind an excuse to go to vegas or somewhere relatively close like that.

Ok, so after reviewing spohns website i think I found everything I need/want for this. Unfortunatly it looks like over 1/2 my money is going to this. Oh well gotta start somewhere, and if your going to do it.... But it hurts spending big bucks....
Anyway, I think Im going with the:
Tubular K-Member / A-Arms / Coil-Over Package (maybe 300lb springs)- LSx Engine Swap for Stock Style Steering
K-Member Braces
LSx Motor Mount Bushing Adapters
Tubular Sub-Frame Connectors
Standard Duty Adjustable Torque Arm - LSx Swap 4L60E Transmission--the package deal with crossmember and torque arm that attaches to it, not the trans.

Does that sound like it about covers the what to bolt the engine to items?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Just to be clear, the only parts you "need" are mounts. The rest of your list is upgrades which are the pitfall of most swaps

FYI, your K-member already has the braces and their K-member is not compatible with the drivers side brace. Mr.Spohn's jig is off and the brace is jammed into the alt 12v output lug. I had to take a cutoff wheel to a brand new K-member, it wanst pretty

ssantac

Hey Pocket,
Didnt think about already having the braces. So i dont need the trans crossmember? I thought I would because i thought with an LS swap its moved back a bit. Also thought i needed to mount the torque arm to the crossmember too if I didnt use a fbody trans.

Is doing a/c more difficult with the stock k member? I read somewhere on here it had to be notched. I know someone that welds so is that the only problem?

Also PM with questions about harnesses

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Buy a crossmember, build your own or modify the stock piece. Your choice, its simple either way

The tailhousing can be swapped for a TA mount on the trans or build a simple plate to accept the stock bushing/shell

All the tubular K's I know of clear the 4th gen AC compressor. The stocker requires a notch, no getting around it. Check the LS1 swap sticky at the top of the page for multiple pictures on it. Its a good idea to notch the rear of the K-member for more oil pan clearance. Its not required, but useful. Unmodified the K has about 1/4" clearance to the pan

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

You're running up the costs big time with fancy parts you don't need. Put the money into buying the donor car.

If I was on a small budget I would modify the stock K-member, use a Hawks double hump trans crossmember ($110) that allows for exhaust clearance, use a stock torque arm, box the rear control arms (weld a plate to the open channel), and leave the suspension alone. I have an 11 second 2000 Z28 with a 6.0L swap and everything is stock except the engine, clutch, exhaust, and an aluminum cover on the differential housing. I mean it doesn't even have subframe connectors! But you really should have subframe connectors on a 3rd gen.

By the way, that's my donor car for my '89. Donor cars don't always have to be wrecked. A roller with leather and T-tops that hasn't been wrecked is worth about $3000 so you're going to get that much money back.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Here's a couple I saw at LS1tech.com tonight.

Once this guys gets a grip on reality that his car is worthless he will sell it for $2000. Air bags are deployed and it's a cloth interior. Wasn't worth $6000 before it was wrecked.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/vehicl...on-damage.html

Basically a stock 6.0L rebuilt with 20K miles. Do a head and cam swap with LS6 intake and you've got yourself a fast car. If you could get this car for 5K you'd do okay. It concerns me what he means by needs a new driver seat.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/vehicl...q4-6-0-m6.html

This one is interesting. Forged LS1 5.7L built as a nitrous motor. There's some money in that engine.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/vehicl...orged-ls1.html

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

ssantac: You need to check out the regional boards! I sell thirdgen parts as well as LS engines. My RS still has the stock K-member (Clearanced for the A/C compressor and boxed for oil pan clearance.) Just go to the southwest regional board. I'm with the other guys, definately go with Weld-in subframe connectors!

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

There is a guy on the Corvette forum that makes brackets to put the 3rd gen a/c compressor on the LS engine that helps avoid notching the K-member. That's what I am using on my swap.

Also, you could always add the SFC down the road after the swap is done. If there is any money left in your budget at that point

ssantac

You know what? You guys are right. Its easy to get sucked into all the new shiney stuff!!! That can wait for now if I can get buy without it, then so be it. I'll still have to be patient and wait for a local donor I think. Thanks for the advice and I'll keep looking on the classifieds.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it's real easy to get sucked into buying that shiney new stuff, but it can sure blow a budget quick! I started off like that too. I had all of these big plans, but realized that the most important thing was to get the car running in a timely fashion. All of that other stuff can come later.

1badeagle

iTrader: (2)

I bought all the shiner stuff at the start just because I was in no hurry and it's easier to add stuff when it's out of the car

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

You're a quick study.

Now for lesson #2: Be willing to travel for that donor car.