As soon as I started buying stuff for this project nothing but better deals kept popping up. I'll soon learn the skill of buying the right stuff. This is kind of a lessons learned

 

I'm out of WLC on thursday, so I'll be able to get back to troubleshooting and tuning

 

have fun with that! WLC, is a joke now. Last one I sent a JO to he did not have to take a weapon, and they did not have classes on the weekend, and I only had to say that I would allow him to go on passes.

 

The one at Bragg is "We're trying to bring you back to basic, but we know you know this is a joke." They are going to the new schedule where they put more responsibility on the student and they don't stay in the barracks. They will be going back to if you fail the APFT you get kicked out, which is awesome. We had a joe that came from drum that couldn't pass her run. She just about died, yet "she knows it all" talking back to SGLs. I dug into her when she argued that she would never see combat. It definitely was a learning experience.

 

HUH??? you modern military boys have so many new abbreviations, makes me feel old, 32 years since I signed up. dang!!! most of you all weren't even born back then!!!

PUNKS

LOL

 

Sorry about that. Everything has an abbreviation for the abbreviation. APFT is Army Physical Fitness Test and SGL Small Group Leader, which are the SSGs that run the PLatoons and the classes. I'm also kinda "old" for my time in the army

 

I was 29 at Basic. I was the grandpa!
I don't think that new E5's (SGT's) have the respect or responsibility to have there 1 NCO school be a gentleman's course! Hell even by BNOC and ANOC schools you could not take pass if you did not make Lbs or APFT, but they did not send you home, you stayed and if you did not meat standards you got a 1059 that stated "Failed to meat course standards" which equals a death sentence for your military career.
only thing I miss is the ability to do PT! I got medically retired for injuries during combat, in a helicopter!

 

29 is definitely up there. All you need now is a marginal 1059 to get barred to reenlist. I guess that is the way it would be done now. They are finally bringing up standards to weed out the ones who can't meet the standards. there was too much "we need him to go down range".

 

I'm interested to see if there are any udates!

 

almost new updates. I'm struggling to get ahold of some pins to the PCM. I hope I won't get off very late again tomorrow. I've been double checking craigslist for someone that would be willing for me to gut their wire harness. local equals cheap.

 

I have a bag full of pins that will fit most PCM's with 3 to 5 inch wires ready for splicing, what color do ya need.

 

I need a pink one for sure. I can pm you my address. Thank you

 

Done!!!!

 

Thank you, now in a few days time I can start tuning

 

the mail man picked it up today, I sent 2 different sizes of pink

 

I know this is not your system but if you scan through it it will tell you how to work the connectors http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/12200411.html

 

have ya got the package yet???

 

not yet. I was hoping for today too. It should be here tomorrow then. Depending on how late they keep me tomorrow night I'll probably start back up on Saturday morning. That camaro is just beging to be driven.

 

the pins are here. I'm going to go and solder it in now.

 

I was finally able to pull the stock tune. I also didn't have the serial data wire coming out of the ALDL port to the C207. I had a few pins laying around that fit into both the connectors, so I just connected the dots. If anybody has any startup tips on the initial tune I could use it.

 

this is some helpful info if anyone is taking a 86 carbed z28 and going FI. GM put a wire in to power a fuel pump in the harness from the fuel pump connector up to the connector to the dash harness. The connector looks just like the C207 and it is hidden next to the C100. All I did was add the missing pin and connected it to the fuel pump power wire.

Now all I need is the throttle body elbow or coupler to go straight to the MAF. I have already loaded the intitial tune with corrected values, primed the oil and primed the fuel pump.

 

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/LT1Edit/LT1files.htm

http://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagno...-lt1-tune.html

check some of these out lol the possibility's are endless.

 

That first site has a lot of info on it. One of the tunes is almost to what I have, so I'll use that as my base line. I just don't want to run lean. Thank you

I'll be in the field all week, so I won't have any progress until after Friday

 

The car starts, but it doesn't idle. I'll be trying to keep the rpms near 2000, but it dies. I checked the fuel pressure at key on and it was low. So I turned up the pressure to stock. It starts easier, but still no dice.

 

Sounds like your fuel pumps kicked the bucket

 

It actually logged DTC 22 in the few seconds that it was running for low voltage in the TPS. I traced it and there was a shortcut taken that involved the harness. So I spent a while running a new dedicated wire for the sensor. Tomorrow morning I will hook everything back up and see if that was it. That fuel pump better not go, it's brand new.

 

After I cleaned up the wires I retested and found that it is the TPS. But that shouldn't keep it from idling, would it?

 

The internal stop inside the TPS let go when I took it off when I cleaned the TB, so I had to get a new one.

The tune that I thought was an origional tune was a bad one. I just loaded another that had settings that weren't screwed with. It idles great now. I am buying a LT4 knock module off a guy on LS1tech so that I can start setting the timing properly. I get nothing but a bunch of knock counts while I have it on. That should be here in a few days

I really need to get a lower gear for this setup. It doesn't like the 2.73:1. I have a 98 rear diff with 3.23s in it. I'm going to get the axle tubes welded after tax season and have my SFCs installed at the same time. I'm thinking of putting 3.73s into it because it will be street driven.

 

Looks like you keep getting setback after setback. Good to see things falling into place.

 

I have the worst of luck, too late to quit now. I'm still debating on modifying my TPI air box or go with the aluminum elbow setup. When the auto center opens up later today I'm going to install my 4th gen coolant res. There isn't any room for the OE one.

 

for some reason the LT's DO NOT LIKE to have sensors missing, I was working on the water pump, had the intake tubing off, MAF disconnected. It barely started??? then died imediatly as well??? also check your ECM2 fuse it will give you fits, it will run and drive with no Idle, crazzy sh....stuff

 

+2. Mine wont fire up at all without the MAF

 

I tried to run it speed density, and it wasn't having it.

I had an air bubble pop up in the system, but I haven't had time to try and rebleed it. I'm hoping I don't have any more issues. I'll get a chance to look at it tomorrow. My Acura sprung a coolant leak a couple days ago and that took priority. Luckily it only cost 1.60

I have the new coolant bottle set in, I just need to decide what to do with the fender brace that is under it. I also decided to go with the aluminum elbow setup. I'm looking for someone that is willing to trade for my tpi filter box.

 

how much you want for the TPI filter set up, I am needing one for my LT conversion?

 

Tinbender I PMd you.

So I thought that I had some major issues when my temp guage dropped off. It turned out that the wires were pulled out of my guage control box by the clutch pedal. That's the good news. Right now it is trying to run lean on the left bank and rich on the other. I boiled the injectors this morning, recomended by FIC on other threads. I also back probed the injector connectors with a test light. They all have power and when I touch the other pin I hear the injector click. I went through the ignition wires to make sure that they are in the correct order and both the O2s are new also. I'm thinking that I should go rent some noid lights to see what is happening. Is this the short fall of the fuel rail design? I didn't think that I would need to make it parallel fuel system by now.

 

My first thought is that you have the O2 sensors wired to the wrong bank. test from the ECU to the O2 ????? that will defiantly drive it nuts!!!!

 

I have a chance to pick up a T56 for my vert, if I can wrangle the Franklin's I'm gonna do it

 

I will have to check my O2s, that would make sense.

The T56 is awesome. In just 4th with the 2.73s I'm under 2000 at 50 MPH. Just imagine highway speeds, lol. But I do need lower gears bad

 

just did the math, 70mph/26 inch tall tires/3.41:1 axel/

.62 6th gear = 1,918 rpm

.50 6th gear = 1,547 rpm

does the LT have enough torque to handle that????

at 5500 rpm;

1st gear = 46.78mph

2nd gear = 69.91mph

3rd gear = 95.73mph

4th gear = 124.44 MPH

5th gear = 165.92 MPH

6th gear =248.89 MPH if you have enough road, motor, and a large enough pair!

 

I just tested and the O2s aren't switched. I'll have to do some driving around with it.

I'll have to see how it handles the highway speeds when I can get it straight

 

I would clear out the memory first, It may have a glitch in there. I believe that you disconnect the battery for 10 min then reconnect it turn the key on wait for the 2 or 3 CEL flashes turn the key off, then start normally

 

I was also thinking of swapping out the PCM if the problem keeps on persisting. I'll try the reset first, that would be the easiest.

Does anybody here still run their evap system? Personally I would like to, because it really doesn't impede on performance. I was also wondering if there is a lower profile canister that I can put in to make more room for my air filter.

 

are you OBD 1 or 2? ive got an OBD2 PCM for sale

 

I appreciate it, I'm running OBD 1. I happen to have 2 other PCMs to work with.

 

I now have the LT4 knock module installed and my intake pieces ordered

 

I just picked these wheels up today for $80.

I guess I have a leaking problem. The only place that I can figure out that it is leaking from is between the hatch glass and the metal portion. All the seals look fine in all the places that it matters.

 

Some progress. I have been slowly tuning my car. It'll be a lot of trial and error, but it's going. I think that I may possibly have an exhaust leak on the Passenger side. That could cause one side reading different than the other. I'll check it out this next weekend.

I completed my intake for now untill I get the plastic to section off the filter from the engine bay. I picked up a Vortech elbow that was tapped for nitrous and came with all the couplers I needed. I just plugged one of the holes and put a vacuum port in the other for the opti. Then I bought a 45* elbow and cut it down. I still need to make brackets for the junction block, pwr steer res and for the fuse block.

I'm in the process of stripping my new axle to have the tubes welded to the housing and to have my subframe connectors installed. I decided that I'm going to go with 4:11 gears, I should be about 1800 RPM at 70 with them.

 

So, I installed a gasket new exhaust gasket on the pass side header and it started to show more promising numbers at idle, but the banks are still not even. I'm thinking that the Driver's side might not be getting full spark or the Pass O2 sensor is slow. The difference is the opti is used and the O2 is new. Maybe if I threw my MSD box on to see what it does? I guess I'm just curious to see if that would do it.

I'm already starting to gather parts for the 24X conversion. I know I'm spending like crazy, but the opti makes me nervous. Every once in a while the engine just dies for no reason.

 

I finally got a chance to start it up again. Doing the normal check the oil before and after it's ran. I'm finding that I must be burning oil. The oil isn't clean and it was slightly lower after running. It already went low before this. Could this be from the engine sitting too long before starting or from it running too rich on the initial tune? I'm hoping that I didn't do some irrepairable damage.

Also, at what point do I need to connect the fuel rails in parallel?

 

No need to mess with re-plumbing the fuel rails to parallel.
The stock series arrangement is fine to at least 600 crank hp in a NA setup.