Thanks five7, that's an option I've been considering. Is it as simple as bolting it on? Will I need to shim my hydraulic slave cylinder? Does that require balancing?

Replacing the clutch/flywheel doesnt require balancing

I got my short block back last week. I also got my new flywheel/clutch. I took five7's advice:

http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...center/sdls7ck

Couple pics of the short block:

Driver's side:


Passenger side:


Holes 3, 5, & 7:


I'm still trying to get a list of what work was done and what warranty it comes with. Obviously the broken piston in #7 was replaced, and it appears to have new slugs in 5 and 6 as well. That would be great since these pistons also showed signs of having been run lean.

I can't tell, however, if the sleeve was replaced or just honed or bored. The pistons in 5 & 6 are stamped "56/07" and the one in #7 reads "56/30". I can't find any info on these piston markings, but it seems plausible that the one in #7 could be larger than the ones in 5 & 6.

Looking the block over, I can't detect any difference in the fit, finish, coloration, etc. of the sleeve in #7. If it has been replaced, there is no visual evidence.

Also, if you look closely at hole #5, there is a minor vertical line in the middle of the picture. You can just catch it with your fingernail, slightly. I didn't notice any scoring in #5 before. Can this be a normal side effect of reassembly?



Well, I guess it's a stupid question on #5 because it had 27k on it. But I ask because there is a similar mark on #7, and that's supposed to be a new sleeve. I just had a better pic of #5.

Take a bore measuring tool or caliper if you dont have access to the proper tool. Its not as accurate but you'll see if its been punched out

Stock bore is 3.898

The score in #5 is concerning esp since its fresh. Rule is anything you can catch a fingernail on needs a hone. Usual suspects are careless with the rod during install or grit/burr on the ring(s). Probably wont affect anything for a mild motor, but poor QC by the shop. It'd be worth checking that the oil barbell is in place since the shop let that pass. That little part will prove disastrous if missing

Thanks Pocket. I checked the barbell and it's alright.

I also heard back today about the warranty:

"Your warranty is the original warranty included with the purchase. We do not extend the warranty."

Sigh.

So they washed their hands of the situation. Nice place...

Well for your sake, I hope there are no more surprises left in that engine/trans

Yeah, it's one thing to protect themselves, but for the money involved, and the high shipping costs, they could have handled this better. I guess they figure nobody reads this forum.

They ****ed you and they know it! karma's a bitch.

I sent a certified letter to the seller a few days ago. I expect nothing to come of it, but I made my case for posterity.

I've been reluctant to go back in the garage. It seems every time I take one step forward on this project, I take two steps back.

So I finally cleared a little bit of time to go back in the garage and start reassembly. I was unable to borrow or rent a bore gauge and I don't have a caliper, so the question of what was done to my motor will remain unanswered. And without warranty of course.

I started cleaning the head mating surfaces. I had done the driver's head before, but not the passenger. When I started cleaning the psgr head I noticed deep scars where the exhaust manifold mates to the head. There was even evidence of exhaust gas escaping down toward the spark plug.

Heck, that was probably most of the noise I heard on the passenger side. The gouge is probably 1/16th of an inch deep:





On my browser you can right click the pic and select "View Image" to see a larger view.

I have no idea what happened. It looks to me like someone was using a grinder in the area of the spark plug and caught an edge, dug in around the exhaust port, and left more scratches in the area where the tool went skittering off.

Maybe some idiot just thought it would be an easy way of removing the old gasket material. Any theories?

This was in no damned way just a stock motor. It had obviously been in and out and apart in it's short life.

Can I simply have this milled down?

You should be able to have it milled clean.

More than 34 years ago, Voyager I was launched into space, and it carried with it a gold record with information about our world, just in case it might someday be discovered by extraterrestrial life.

I say skip the record, next time we're sending an LS7 flywheel. That is one of the most beautiful and inspiring pieces of steel I have ever seen!

So, I got it running last week. Immediately it was quieter and smoother than the first time I fired it up last June. It's stronger too.

The LS7 clutch is so far just awesome, though it engages right at the floor. There's basically no travel, as soon as you begin to release the clutch pedal, it engages, but I love it. Did I mention how beautiful it is?!

The seller has been vague about the work performed and refuses to warrant the work. Also, the front main seal leaks. A very disappointing purchase. I intend to go into more detail later.

I am having a tune done early next week. Hopefully all goes well. It would be really nice to just drive it.

Thank you again TGO for all the helpful answers and advice!

What did you end up doing about the exhaust port?

Just like you said, milling it down wasn't a problem. Well, it wasn't a problem that 150 bucks couldn't fix...

They actually welded the groove first then milled it down to minimize the amount of aluminum removed.

I really didn't think you could get an exhaust leak from a 26k mileage motor if, in fact, the manifolds had never been off. But I have learned that this motor had been around the block once or twice.

And the leak at the front seal bothers me. Not only because, well it leaks, but because I wonder how well they completed the rest of the assembly. Time will tell...

So, to summarize this thread: LS1 swap runs, knocks, turns out to be busted piston and gas checking at the exhaust port.

I was thinking running a bead on there would help. Glad to hear that's what they did.

I was finally able to get in for a tune today, so it looks like it's going to live this time. Hopefully I can actually drive it for awhile before yanking the motor again!

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...to-carbed.html

So I had it tuned at the beginning of the year. The last run showed 341 horses and 353 torque, so it was looking like the motor must finally be in good shape.

I've been using it for running around town ever since. A couple weeks ago I checked the oil level, but noticed water drops on the inside of the oil filler cap. There was also very light smoke (or steam) coming out of the fill opening. A very fine, gentle wisp.

I checked it again a couple days later, and the fill cap was wet again.

Is it steam coming from the heart of my engine, condensing inside the fill cap?

A problem with the head gasket? Did the alleged cylinder repair/resleeve fail?

Anyone else ever see light smoke or steam emanate from the oil fill cap on their LS1? Anyone else get condensation inside their filler cap?

These motors "sweat" a lot more since they're all aluminum. My old 347 did the same thing. Nothing to worry about.

Just to add alittle to that, its condensation mainly from quick drives around town where the engine may get up to running temp and then be shut off after a short trip. I've seen it so bad that the inside of the VC is milky. But like stated already nothing to worry about

Wow, well I like your replies!

If it's only condensation, that would be waaaaaaaaaaaay better than what I was fearing!!

I guess I'll just keep an eye on things.

Thanks!

*face palm*

This thread worries me because you just can't take anyone's word. You have to believe a lot of these low mileage pull outs came from cars that served a hard life and someone ended up wrapping it around a tree. So those low miles often times are hard miles. No real win win to it. Sometimes maybe even most of the time everything is fine but then there are cases like your Daren. You seem to have extreme patience for this kind of thing and it's a good thing. I think many of us here probably would have lost it the second we heard the tapping. I guess it's a good thing you were able to get a reconditioned shortblock from the deal but i would still let them know how you really feel with the situation. In a professional non-threatning way.

Glad to hear it layed down a healthy number and your in business.

Also the condensation around the oil cap is common on the ls motors, my ls6 did it as well as my gf's ls1. Common to sometimes see a milky substance underneath.

Just happened to re-read this thread again. My LS1 has been running well, and I just wanted to thank everyone at TGO for reading and helping a newb through a challenging diagnosis and more on-the-fly LS1 education than I had bargained for.

Great forum, great members.

Thank you all again!