Ever own an OPTI LT1 or are you just passing along 'what you heard' ?? I've got a 95 Z still has the original 17 year old factory Installed OPTI and it works just fine - every time I turn the key.

More likely the guy didn't know what the hell he was doing when he installed them rather than bad parts. The probability that he got 3 'bad' new parts in a row (of ANY KIND) is probably = to getting struck by lighting and winning the Mega Loto in the same afternoon. It's easy to blame 'bad parts' for your own screw ups when no-one saw you screw up. Just sayin' !

 

Make your own thread to gloat how perfect the ls1 is, don't clutter this guys thread with nonsense unless you've had first hand experience.

 

lmao dont be mad89.You should listen to you own words.

 

Has worked on 100s if not 1000s.He is best maryland and surrounding states.Like i said dont be mad,Just B/c ls are better motors,all am saying, and you all get mad.Kinda childish you ask me...........

 

Hey boys, the beast is alive. Sounds like a champ.

I'm just a little worried because it's idling at around 2800 rpm. I think it's because my iac is unplugged, but is there a way to adjust the idle speed?

 

Not unless you change it in the PCM. Iac would have cause the issue, along with a vacuum leak.

 

You can close the throttle screw all the way if it isn't already.

I can't believe ls even made it into this thread lol

 

ya with a labtop

 

I've ran all the vacuum lines according to a diagram I found.

Still ran at high idle.

I'm going to swap the IAC (I've got two more, along with two other coils) tomorrow, and check the idle screw.

It's been hard to motivate myself to work on her since the heat wave is still crazy here. Even going out for ten minutes you come back with a drenched t-shirt.

Here's a video of it running, along with some childishly high revs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cR-Dc_iJIcQ

 

ya to hot. to do anything.

 

Congrats !!! Now it's time to 'tweek' it till it's performing at it's best !!



P.S. What headers are you using and how did they seal for you ??

 

Grads.If you are getting tunned and arent doing your self.Best place is in glen burnie.If want number let me know. (trying to get the site up plz like)

 

No headers yet. I still haven't welded on subframe connectors and too much hp will tweak my frame, since I've got t-tops.

I eventually plan to get Headman Shortys.

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...%7D350-V8.html

 

With them header and a 700 r4 .You have to cut some of the trasmisson up so they fit.No big deal tho. http://www.facebook.com/ThisWeekInCamaro

 

By the time I'd be putting on headers, I'd also have done my t56 swap already.

 

Oh, I should also mention something. I did not have to put anything onto my C207 connector, and I have no check engine light. In fact, because I've got a berlinetta, it's actually giving me the green "OK" light. Is that odd?

 

I had no check light on either on my car.(ran like chit b/f i had it tunned.but you have not chaged anything correct?

 

The Check engine light in your 84 is run by a "lamp driver". ( Later cars got the Check Engine signal directly from the ECM) Somehow this thing must be getting a signal -as if from the original ECM - or it has posssibly failed.



The Check Engine light bulb is not burnt out because the OK light is working as it should. The "OK" light will not work unless all the other telltale warning lamps in the "Systems Monitor" are working and the cluster runs thru it's normal system check when the car is first started.

I'm surprised that you didn't need to wire anything to the C207..... no reason; just surprised that you didn't need to tap into it for anything.

P.S. My Dyno Don's headers got delivered,............. They can't be installed without modifications because the drivers side is hitting the crossmember.

 

Hey guys. Sorry it's been a while.

I got everything wired up and ready to go. I drove it down the road, and on the way back to my house, the car was getting no power. I would push the pedal, and nothing.

Then I looked behind me. Up and down the ENTIRE ROAD was a steady line of my trans fluid. Turns out there was a crack in the housing or something, and the trans was no good.

Oh well.

So now I've got a T56 in it (:-)) and have everything pretty much ready to go, besides the hydraulic lines and the pedals, which I plan to throw in tomorrow morning.

Two questions.

I grabbed the whole hydraulic system from a third gen manual (4cyl) because I needed a reservoir. Will that work, if I just use the main pipe from master to slave, and use the fourth gen master and slave I bought at auto zone? Otherwise, I need to buy a 300$ assembly from gm, which would kill my already drained bank account.

Second question:

It's not starting anymore. I think it has something to do with me removing the automatic shifter. I think I remember reading something about there being a cable or something that goes to the steering column or something that prevents starting when it's not in park.


Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

You should be able to use the thirdgen hose, though I dont think i've ever tried, I dont recall the master/slave assy being that expensive, but they do include a braided line stock between the two, which may result in the thirdgen hose not working, but they do share the same fittings.

Yes if you dont have the park/neutral safety switch plugged in and the shifter in park/neutral it will not start. Its on the shifter itself.

 

How do I bypass that? I'm not planning on putting any safety systems in for now. I've disabled the reverse lockout, fuel pump enable, etc.

 

Cool its running,what was the reason it wouldnt fire before with the wiring harness?Posting how you solved the problem could help others.Did you fix the idle issue if not then try a new iac and relearn.As for the neutral safety switch wiring at the shifter I believe there is a thick yellow and a purple wire that you can join together which should allow you to start the car again.I cant remember..been awhile since I swapped my auto out lol.

I dont know why soo many hate on the ltx motors..so what some opti's failed in its early production stage.Gm fixed them later..aside from that what else can you complain about them.They made good power and torque out of the box,take well to mods with a good tune.Ive seen plenty of nasty ltx cars hand ls1's a beating.Yes the lsx motors are a more efficient design..topend monsters and if you get an iron lsx motor to build you can have a lot of fun that way too.But nothing wrong with going lt or ls.

 

It was the ignition wire from the coil to the opti.

I got the idle down slightly by swapping the mass air sensor (Mine had gone bad, I believe)

I'm going to try swapping the IAC soon.


And on the starting front, I'll wire those two together tomorrow, or, since it seems like it might actually be pretty easy to wire it to the clutch anticipate pedal, I'll just try that.

 

Lol dont ya hate when one wire messes with your head.Its ok..i did the same thing when I first did my ls swap.Wired the pcm ign to the secondary ign wire that isnt hot during crank.Oops :P

I dont know about lt1's but on an ls1 there are 2 clutch switches 1)clutch anticipate to the pcm 2) clutch/starter engage switch. The clutch anticipate isnt manditory but it tells the ecm that you clutched in and does something with fueling and idle along those lines I believe.The clutch/starter switch just simply if you want the safety of having to press the clutch in order to start the car.If you join the 2 wires near at the shifter together right now you would be able to start the car without having to press the clutch in.Upto you what you want..I recommend doing it right just for peace of mind.

Good luck on the swap..coming along.Post more vids.

 

Hey guys. Is there ANY way I can reuse my old crossmember, even for just a little while?

 

I just checked. I think I'm going to go the fabrication route since I've got access to a grinder and a welder.

Cut it into three pieces and weld in place, right guys?

 

If you are talking about the trans xmem for going T56 I wouldnt try to use the stock one for the task, go to a metal supplier and get some 1.5" or 2" angle steel in 3/16 or 1/4" and then some flat in the same thickness to fab one.

 

Yup, Park/Neutral switch should be an easy to splice; best to wire a clutch lock-out to the pedal so it can't be started without the clutch "IN".

I'm pretty sure that I've got a 4th gen hydraulic line,......... If you need it let me know & I'll try to dig it out of the garage.

 

You can simply by-pass it by making a "U" out of a 1" peice of small guage wire, and put it in the connectors

 

That would be amazing, John. PM me with price and stuff.

 

Yup. Did it to test for starting. Works just fine. Going to wire it to the clutch in the next hour.

What do the other wires do?

 

Theres your VSS, and your Rev-lockout. Including the NSS i beleive thats all, I dont have my harness infront of me

 

IIRC,....

Thirdgen NSS wires are:

Blue and Green are for reverse lights.

Orange/black is 4th gear indicator to ECM for TCC control.

Yellow is power in from Ignition and Purple is power out to soleniod.

 

Excellent. I'm going to have everything wired up and ready to go for when the hydraulics arrive from John.

I was also able to get the slave cylinder bracket from my local tranny shop I buy my master rebuild kits from, so that'll also be in soon.


Anything I should know about mounting the pedals? I still haven't gotten a chance to, but it's time to bite the bullet. I've already got a hole in my firewall, but it's being used for the old cruise control thing. Is that also for the master cylinder or do I need to make a new one?

Also, the t56 is allowing me to shift into reverse. I do not have reverse lockout hooked up. Is this normal, or is there possibly something wrong with the solenoid?

Thanks guys, as always.

 

Ships in the morning !

Take your time when mounting the pedals. Be sure the set of pedals you install has a 'rod' type brace on each side that mounts against the firewall. These 2 rod braces will be the location of the hydraulic "U" bolt. These braces MUST be placed into the correct location on the firewall so that the 2 U bolt mounting holes are almost exact Be sure to remove ANY/ALL padding (and any/every thing else ) so the rod braces are making direct contact with the firewall. If your pedals don't have rod type braces on each side - they might be from a mechanical clutch set-up.

Once those 2 holes are drilled used a piece of cardboard to cut a template of the cylinder/firewall mating surface. Then cut a hole for the cylinder to poke thru. and make the "U bolt holes on each side of the template. Match up the template with the 2 holes in the firewall and cut the cylinder hole any way you'd like !

Again - BE SURE that the Cylinder U Bolt mounting holes are correct !!

 

Alright, boys (and girls? doubt it).

Got a lot done today.

Cut off the gas pedal bracket using grinder:




I was having trouble, so I grinded off a bit of that annoying part of the steering column bracket.




I also haven't worried about that top hole, because honestly, I just got lazy.

This one:




For the master cylinder hole, I stripped out all of the insulation, and moved that cable that was blocking my way.:




And then took a small drill bit and made tiny punch holes around the perimeter of where I wanted the hole to be, then punched it out with a hammer. Sorry, no picture of this.


After that, with a bit of wiggling, and somebody holding the brake booster flush against the firewall, I mounted the pedals. They're a bitch to tighten and I had to stop multiple times from my hands loosing circulation from being upside down and at a weird angle:



Yes, I know the pedal kit looks a bit ridiculous, but it was needed. The rubber pads were getting worn and my gas pedal was rather ugly. They don't look too bad and I'm probably going to paint them black anyway.



Things I don't have pictures of:

I placed the slave cylinder in place as best I can without having that bracket. There's a local firebird/camaro specialty shop I'm going to try to get them from. If not, does anybody know where I can grab one? It's that aluminum bracket that goes over the two bolts for the slave cylinder and that provides the support for it.

I'm waiting on John's hydraulic line so I can put everything in.




After that,











You guys have no idea how excited I am. I've been restoring this car for nearly five years now, and in that time, it's been through three engines, four transmissions, and a hell of an overhaul. However, it's going to, for a short time, (until John gets his on the road again) be the fastest berlinetta in the world. I think. Eh, hell if I know. But I'm happy and proud of my little car. It's come such a long way from this:









to this:



(Keep in mind that it now has much different rims and tires)

 

Dont get lazy.If you feel like that walk away from the car.Lazy turns into mistakes not done as good as it could be, and you will have to go back and fix.Car will be there tomorrw!!

 

I didn't say I wasn't going to put the bolt back in, I just didn't do it YET. Don't worry.

 

K Just keeping you on your toes

 

No he is best with in 100 square miles . ppl come 100s of miles to see him.

 

Alright, guys. While I'm waiting on the hydraulic line, I need to figure out the crossmember. What's the simplest way to fabricate one? I don't have the money to pay for a Spohn one right now because my loan payment is due in a couple days.

 

Can you weld?

 

Aye.

 

I've decided I'm going to get the Spohn one instead.

Should I get the driveshaft loop?

And do I need the poly mount or can I use my own?

 

Eh screw it. I'm gonna get the poly mount and the driveshaft loop for extra security.

 

I'm going to either invest in a set of subframe connectors or weld some steel on there myself. What do you guys suggest, and how strong should they be considering I have t-tops?

 

I changed from Jegster SFC to - Jegster SFC's !

I really like the Jegser Bolt-In set-up. They were installed in my 84 for a long time and never had any problems with Em'. They also leave a lot more room in the Cat Converter area than many other set-ups. You can also weld them if if that's what you prefer.

 

Excellent. Those will be the next big purchase.

 

Got the hydraulics all set up today as soon as the slave cylinder bracket arrived from Hawks. Started to bleed it, and realized that the o-ring I used on the slave cylinder was letting in air, so I'm going to put in a new ring tomorrow.

Crossmember should arrive on Thursday. Then,



Well, not really. I need to wait until I can get those SFCs from John before I can really start having fun with it.





Tomorrow I'll get the wiring done up on the tranny while I wait for the crossmember on Thursday.

 

Hey guys. Tranny's in, everything's bolted up, and the only thing that needs to be done is the vacuum lines. Anybody have a good diagram?