LTX and LSX Putting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.

LT1 swap vats question...

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Old May 2, 2014 | 07:37 PM
  #1  
tnitz8787's Avatar
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Junior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 50
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From: bensalem pa.
Car: 89 GTA/89 GTA
Engine: L98/lt1
Transmission: 700R4-
Axle/Gears: 3:27/3:73
LT1 swap vats question...

I'm coming down the home-stretch with my LT1 swap, but have run into a snag. I have the vats bypass module hooked up to my 94 lt1 computer, but I think the original vats in my 89 gta may be killing my fuel pump... It's obvious that there is a problem with the vats on my car since the starter enable relay needs to be jumped in order to crank the engine. My question is whether or not the car's vats is still able to kill the fuel pump even though it's being run by the lt1 computer. My fuel pump primes, i have pulse and spark but the engine just pops as it cranks. It does run off spray.
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Old May 3, 2014 | 10:18 AM
  #2  
Thirim's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 690
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 LT1
Transmission: T56
Re: LT1 swap vats question...

pin A25 in the red PCM connector of the LT1 is the Fuel Enable signal. It has a square wave frequency on it when everything is good to tell the PCM that the VATS is good. Your car wouldn't work without this except that you bypassed the vats .. I'm not familiar with the bypass module but it must wire into this or you have programmed the VATS out of the PCM.
http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.jpg
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Old May 4, 2014 | 08:00 PM
  #3  
tnitz8787's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: bensalem pa.
Car: 89 GTA/89 GTA
Engine: L98/lt1
Transmission: 700R4-
Axle/Gears: 3:27/3:73
Re: LT1 swap vats question...

Thank you for the reply. It turned out that my problem was with air not fuel. My IAC is apparently not functioning and is either no good or there is a small chance I may have somehow mixed the IAC coil "A" low lt blu/blk wire with the brake switch signal wire that shares the same color, in the same connector. It may just need to be reset. Monday is my day off/work on car day, so I hope to have it all sorted tomorrow.
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