I've got a post on ls1 tech but not getting any feedback, pls help guys!!
http://m.ls1tech.com/forums/showthre...8#post18339828

 

sounds like you need the infamous drill mod.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm

 

Nope, running a tick master

 

Try the shim and see. If not sometimes pressure plates can run untrue and/or disks can be tweaked so the clutch drags and doesnt release properly and this makes shifting at high RPM damn near impossible. Ive had this happen and ended up with bent valves to show for my frustrations.... not fun.

Also when you remove the trans, measure the stack height of the entire assembly. There should be info on what its supposed to be over on tech, if not call Spec and ask them for a stack height dimension.

 

Ill assume everything else has been repeatedly checked already..slave cyl,throwout bearing etc and adjusting the pedal. I know ive previously damaged my ls7 pressure plate at first when i installed the tick master and had the clutch pedal too high.

How does the trans feel shifting gears with the car off? And what condition is the trans in before you did the swap? is it due for a rebuild because I bought mine and it needs be looked over as shifting into 3rd is grinding at high rpm slightly now but the trans has about 80k on it with some decent abuse from the previous owner.

Whats the recommended break in for the spec 3 you have? I doubt you have air in the system if you bled it that many times but its still very possible depending on the bleeding method,i wouldnt rule out adjusting the clutch pedal height also and following ticks guide for proper clutch engage/disengagement.lastly a stock t56 does have quite a few weak parts and overtime its common for the grinding but sadly rebuilding them can be costly to get them at a level for more abuse we tend to throw at them day to day.Hope you get it resolved as a well working ls1/t56 swap 3rdgen is a very nice driving experience..getting it to that point can be frustrating.Keep your head up and go over everything and sometimes its the small stupid things that cause a big headache.

 

Clutch was bled while the pedal was almost level with the brake, shim made no difference. With the car off getting the 1st shift started can be hard but once it engages 1st it'll go right into second, same for 3-4. I worked on it tonight again bled some more and checked for disengagement on jacks stands, with the car at idle in 1st when I pushed the clutch in the tires rolled to a stop within 10-15 seconds, shut the car off, had a helper push the clutch on while I turned the driveshaft by hand, it was easy, no resistance, so I'm believing the synchros are taking a dump, although with the car running on stands if I went to 1st really quick it made the tires spin for a second or 2 and stopped, trans has been converted from LT (worked good) and sat with the front cover off for a few months with a towel covering the case. I believe the synchros are bad but could the notchy gears come from too tight of shimming done when assembled?

 

Update: did a jack stand test and the tire didnt movebst all with the car reved to 6k, so can eliminate clutch issues, now I drove it today and while shiting to 3rd under normal driving it will grind, but if I redline 2nd gear ans speedshift 3rd it goes right in? Why is this? I rwad something about bad motor mounts causeing binding but im not sure, can anybody chime in on why 3rd is acting like this?

 

How would a motor mount cause shift issues with a single gear? Think about that before you dig into a mount

 

Bent shift fork maybe

 

Agree, but not only that, how would a motor mount affect a hydraulic clutch setup. A bad motor mount will affect a mechanical linkage setup but should have no effect on a hydraulic setup. Yes, no?

 

Right

Clutch is ruled out with the jackstand test. If the pedal isnt dropping to the floor, you can rule out a hydraulics problem. Last thing on the list is internal trans, be it fluid level/type issue or worn parts

If an external problem is causing binding of the internal trans parts, then the thin alum bellhousing/case will fracture first. Motor mount to T56 issue is like flat tire to starter issue