I ended up completing several more rounds of shooting epoxy, blocking to get everything straight on the body. It wasn't damaged, some panels were just not completely straight from the factory. I also blocked out the door jambs, why? I have no idea perhaps my OCD.

I also removed the hatch and after 6+ years it was time to get it off the body cart so that I could sand blast the tail panel and hatch channel. I didn't take many pictures being I was covered in coal slag but I am sure you get the idea. I cant believe its been since 12/2018 that I started this but a lot of "Life" events have come along the way so in my eyes any progress is good progress, just have to keep moving. Next up is getting it mounted on the rotisserie (hopefully), it is going to come down to a few inches if I can get it to fit in my small garage. I have to build some custom mounts to save space so lets hope for the best.

 

Looks good, I hope you eventually finish it and have time to drive it!

Something about the body in brushed steel that makes me want you to Matte clear it and leave it like that.

 

I was able to fit the car on the rotisserie by making custom mounts and removing one of my exhaust fans, it literally came down to an inch. Really happy I was able to make this work as it will make things much easier. I was also able to get the fuel tank mounted so that I could appropriately place my fuel tank access panel. I got that fitted and just need to weld that in.

 

That’s tight! Never really u see stood the fuel access door. How often are people changing pumps? I’ve had maybe the original pump die on one of these cars ever but generally I upgrade them and don’t have to touch them ever again. If you really need more fuel than a single 455 or 525 your prob better with an external and a dumped tank anyways.

 

Its more about dealing with leaks at the pump and wiring that I want to have access to. I'm running a 5th Gen ZL1 pump and Holley HydraMat so its going to need custom wiring for the pump and fuel sender. I really have no intentions of ever replacing the pump but if the HydraMat needs adjustment etc. I don't want to have to drop the tank.

 

gotcha. Makes sense for you then. When I put in my walbro 450 I drilled a hole in the sender for the pump 14 gauge wires ran them through The hole So the connector was in the tank and JB welded the hole to seal it. No vibrations/wire movement bc of the JB weld and connector allows for pump swaps in the future. The hydramat is expensive and I hear can be a restriction on the pump inlet as it’s also a low micron filter and can cause pumps to burn out.

 

That I did not know about the HydraMat, appreciate the heads up. In that case maybe I will look into a corner pick up kit. Ricks Tanks makes one and I do not believe they use a low micron filter like the HydraMat.

 

It's just something I heard at one time. What I don't like is that its a 15 micron prefilter on the inlet side of the pump... Most if not all pumps require a 100 micron sock pre pump. The pump doesn't need that much filtration and something that fine of filtration is going to add restriction or clog easier over time (thus adding a restriction). Then I read that the hydramat only has a 5-10 year lifetime, can't be cleaned or reused and they aren't cheap. I always rock the 100 micron sock that comes with the pump and put a post filter before the injectors.I also read that the good walbro pump socks that come with the pumps are basically the same hydramat technology just not as big and as fine of filtration. That doesn't help when you don't have a bucket or sump to collect fuel but If the hydramat was so good the OEMs would be using something similar and not buckets with standard prefilters.

 

I was able to get the fuel tank access panel welded in. Still have to clean up some of the welds but happy with the outcome. I must say the rotisserie makes things so much easier. On to the the subframe connectors this weekend. Also very surprised how clean the underneath the is. I don't think I have any more rust to cut and patch, thankfully.

 

I haven't heard of many 3rd gens running a HydraMat. I had a 340 lph pump with an odd filter connection (that I ended up replacing - for other reasons). The filter that came with the pump was 1"x3", which I believe is standard 3rd gen in-tank pump size. I had purchased the 3"x8" HydraMat with the 3rd gen in-tank style connection. The main reason for using the HydraMat is the car has the factory '82 tank with no baffles for the in-tank pump (the car was originally a carb'd V6). I was getting cavitation if the tank was below 1/4 full (only a problem going down the track - it wouldn't cavitate on the street with that fuel level). I haven't "tested" the Holley 350 lph pump with HydraMat, but I assumed the much larger filter area would make up for the 15 micron filtration. And, Holley doesn't include any flow limits with their large variety of HydaMat sizes and shapes.

Guess we'll see.

 

I severely underestimated the damage on the passenger rocker that occurred when it was stolen. Unfortunately I do not have a picture, but the rocker was smashed in so high it pulled the the pinch weld up and I could not get the SFC to seat flush with the pinch weld. I tried a stud welder, vice grip slide hammer and made a custom puller all which failed miserably. Then I decided to buy a pinch weld puller and secure a hook into the concreate floor and use the hydraulics on rotisserie to pull it out. This worked like a charm but I could not believe how difficult it was.

I also got the passenger SFC welded up. These DSE SFC's fit great so far and I love that they tie into the pinch weld and look factory. If your car is stripped down I highly recommend them. I can't say I'd suggested them on a fully assembled car, it would be a hell of a lot of work. I sprayed the mated sides with weld through primer for corrosion protection and will be putting internal frame coating inside the SFC's. Here is the completed passenger side, my welds are solid but not ascetically pleasing IMO.

 

@Burton5251 Is the fuel pump setup a universal setup? I assume since you welded the top of the tank the fuel pumps are adjustable height? Also what size fuel line comes out of the sending unit at the top of the tank?

Thanks!

 

@SnkSknrZ28 It is not a universal set up. I will be using a ZL1 bucket and there are certain specs on how deep the bottom of the tank needs to be (sorry I don't recall what they are off the top of my head). OEM buckets usually run a 3/8 feed.

 

I was able to wrap up the passenger side SFC which went much easier. Overall I am happy with the results. It will be nice to have a solid jacking point the length of the car.

I also trimmed the center console bracket for the T56 and welded in a support. I used 3rd Gen Guys shifter cut template but it is designed for a stock k-member with Holley mounts. I am going UMI so I just traced the template, located the center and drilled it out as a starting point. I will wait until I have the trans mounted to ensure it is centered before I remove the whole area.

Up next door handle fab...

 

If I were to do these again I would gut the door. Glass, tracks, motors, everything. When you have the C tab for the latch release welded in, I would suggest trimming the forward tab to clear the glass as it comes down. I scratched my windows before I realized they were hitting that tab. You will use the rear tab for the rod and reuse the plastic clip from the original handles. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

 

Thanks @soloc4 . We spoke on FB about gutting the doors and I think that is the way to go. I am about to start the door disassembly (only one, so I have a reference). I need to figure out the C tab location if it is car dependent or standardized to the handles. To be honest I have not looked into it yet. I will probably reach out on FB as it is easier to send pics. Thanks for the suggestions!

 

@Burton5251 thanks for the reply, I love the idea I’ll be sure to look into it more. With the bottom of our 3rd gen tank being at an angle I’m suprised that fuel bucket will work and reach. The 3rd gen fuel pump hanger is angled far to the back of the tank which is why I’m having trouble envisioning it. I’ll do more research and pay attention to your progress!

 

when i installed the kindigit handles, we installed them backwards - you push on the rear and the front of the handle opens out to use. my memory is kinda foggy cause i did this like 9 years ago, but i believe this provided some additional room for the bracket and aligned the rod better above the door hinge.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...ml#post6028816

 

Thanks @battmann I've following your build for awhile.

 

Subframes look good and your welds are more than fine. I did old school thru floors that i got off jegs (can't remember the brand) but they were designed to bolt to the trans mount. I moved them outwards closer to the rockers before I knotched the stock subframes for dual 3" exhaust. I then fabbed up what looks like rock sliders that tied those into the rocker area for additional strength. Yours look alot better but this was 20 years ago.

Door handles are interesting, I you and Battman are the only times I've ever seen these. I did the S10 handles on a set or doors like 8 years ago and eventually sold the doors and went back to stock. I don't mind the stock handles... they are functional.

 

Some work done, congrats!

 

shoot yea, keep it coming...

 

Unfortunately I had to have a spinal fusion so that is the reason for the lack of updates. Since my last update I was able to get the steering column sandblasted, epoxied and rebuilt. I was also able to get all of the window mechanisms sandblasted and epoxied as well as the handles welded in. I also test fit the drivers door with all new weatherstripping. Unfortunately, it is not sitting flush with the quarter panel. The new weatherstripping (Fairchild) was extremely firm so I am hoping it will break in a bit. Currently you have to slam the door to shut, I used new hinges as well and made sure the windows and striker were adjusted properly. I hope to have the passenger door test fitted in the next few weeks as I am just finishing blocking that door now.

 

Back pain is no fun at all. I hope you're healing well and that you'll be back in the garage soon. Your Z28 is going to look great!