I apologize if these questions have been asked or answered 100 times, but I've been reading so many threads my head is spinning.

I am using a Holley Terminator X max. My plan at this point is the use the green fuel pump relay from the Holley to trigger the stock fuel pump relay through the green/white wire. Is this a correct method?

My next question is about the pump priming connector. Do I need to hook this up to anything? It seems that the Terminator primes the pump so I guess it will do that through the green fuel pump wire and I don't need anything extra beyond that?

I am using a 4th gen tank which has a 4 wire connector. I'd like to use the stock wiring back to the tank and make a jumper from the car to the 4th gen tank using the plug from the factory 3rd gen sending unit. I figure it's grey to grey, black to black, but the 4th gen sender also has a black/white wire. Is this also a ground? Can I just tie that in with the black wire? I am using the Grand Prix sender with the newer flat style connector, but wires are the same as a 4th gen.

Lastly, do I need to power the solenoid/valve on the 4th gen tank vent? I can't seem to find a straight answer on that. Does it just need key on power? Does it need to be hooked up at all?

Thanks!

 

I have the Holley hp efi and have the green wire wired to the factory fuel pump power wire. Your Terminator should control the prime as my HP does.

Im running a 4th gen tank but dont recall how the main plug is wired up unfortunately. I dont have the solenoid hooked up.

 

So you're not using the factory fuel pump relay at all then? I am running a Walbro 255 which draws less than 10 amps so the internal relay of the terminator can handle it. That does make life a lot easier. I was figuring I'd just use the Holley to trigger the factory relay, but getting rid of it does make things a lot cleaner. If I went to a larger pump I'd use a hotwire kit so I think I'll do what you did.

 

Just for reference, I just did some experimenting with the 4 wire fuel pump plug. The black with white wire is a ground for the gauge. So to adapt to the factory 3rd gen wiring it's grey/grey, purprle/purple, black/black+black white.

I hooked up power to the fuse box so the instrument cluster turned on and jumped the purple wires together and black white to ground and with the fuel pump in my hand was able to cycle the fuel gauge with the sender. I used the float from the 4rd gen tank on the Grand Prix sender. But when I pegged it full it only showed 3/4 tank. To put a silver lining on it I guess if anything that's good because I'll always actually have more gas than I think I do.

 

I believe the 4th gen sender is not a 0 to 90 ohm scale. But I will experiment with your wiring suggestion for my tank. I have the 4th gen hotwire harness

 

I'm using the Grand Prix sender which is supposedly the correct resistance. Right now I just want to get the car running but one day I'll take the time to really get it all straightened out. Or go with the Holley dash which would be really nice.

 

I'm using the Grand Prix sender which is supposedly the correct resistance. Right now I just want to get the car running but one day I'll take the time to really get it all straightened out. Or go with the Holley dash which would be really nice. Now that I've got it mounted I'll say a main advantage of the 4th gen tank is that you bring can install it with the axle in place.