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Love the car! Very clean!
Is this the newer Vintage Air setup? I'm wanting to use their kit with a similar bulkhead fitting and really smooth out the firewall in that area as much as possible so like you I won't be using their firewall panel either. Any comments or concerns related to that install you want to share? I'd love to move the dryer too away from the firewall if possible.
Love the car! Very clean!
Is this the newer Vintage Air setup? I'm wanting to use their kit with a similar bulkhead fitting and really smooth out the firewall in that area as much as possible so like you I won't be using their firewall panel either. Any comments or concerns related to that install you want to share? I'd love to move the dryer too away from the firewall if possible.
I installed the Vintage Air system about 8 years ago using the Magnum IV universal kit. At the time the GEN V system was not available. I had to fabricate the brackets, ductwork, condensor, and the plumbing. I did use the Dirty Dingo SD7 compressor kit. The GEN V unit is a bit smaller which makes it easier to install and the system comes with everything you need to install it in a 3rd gen. I hacked up the plenum and added fittings to attach the flex ducts. The GEN V system has adapters for the dash vents and uses new defrost ducts which preform much better. The Dirty Dingo kit can be used with the three different accessories types for the LS platform and replaced the variable pressure compressor with a new SD7 constant pressure compressor.
Vintage Air does offer the ducts kit separately and I plan on upgrading the existing ductwork this winter. In my opinion, the GEN V system is the best option for our cars. I wish that it was available when I did mine, but I am not going to start over. I too wanted to locate the drier somewhere else, but couldnt figure out the plumbing at the time. The GEN V systems drier is in a much better location. I appreciate your interest in my build, Im glad you like it. If you have any questions, please let me know and I will try to answer them as best I can.
I had to redesign the power steering/hydraboost system in the car because of issues with the teed return lines at the reservoir.
The new remote reservoir has dual return ports to isolate the steering and brake returns. This prevents the steering rack return (primary) from back feeding the Hydraboost return (secondary) which allows the brakes to fully release.
I also tripled the size of the cooler in order to keep the temperature under control.
While I was in there I decided to replace the OEM plastic coolant reservoir with an aluminum reservoir.
I fabricated a couple of aluminum brackets to mount the two reservoirs in the stock locations of the OEM plastic tanks.
These look great. What kind of temp drop are you seeing w the new power steering cooler.
From the last track day the power steering fluid was 160 degrees after a 4 lap session which was around 20-25 degrees lower than the prior track day before the upgrades. The temperature was not really a problem, rarely going above 190 degrees, but since I was completely reworking the system I decided to increase the cooler at that time.
I recently had to rebuild my entire steering system, so while I was at it I replaced the OEM steering wheel with a MOMO MOD 78 wheel. Turn One rebuilt the 4th gen steering rack and Im on my second HP2 pump after the rotator valve failed and sent debris throughout the system. I also installed a 10 percent reduction crank pulley to reduce the pump speed at 7000 rpm. This will also reduce the AC compressor speed.
Not gonna sugar coat it, the stock wheel looked way more appropriate. Imho, of course. Serious question though, what benifit does the Momo wheel add?
I do like the original Z/28 wheel and I am going to put it in my 70. The original wheel is 14.5 inches in diameter and the MOMO is 13 inches. The smaller diameter wheel allows a faster response to steering input. Compare a F1 wheel to a semi truck wheel and you can visualize this. Steering rack/box ratio has a lot to do with this, but the wheel size also plays a role. I want for the quickest steering response that I can get for autocross. If it proves too twitchy I can tune the responsiveness with different flow rate valves on the pump.
I do like the original Z/28 wheel and I am going to put it in my 70. The original wheel is 14.5 inches in diameter and the MOMO is 13 inches. The smaller diameter wheel allows a faster response to steering input. Compare a F1 wheel to a semi truck wheel and you can visualize this. Steering rack/box ratio has a lot to do with this, but the wheel size also plays a role. I want for the quickest steering response that I can get for autocross. If it proves too twitchy I can tune the responsiveness with different flow rate valves on the pump.
Personally, I've never noticed that much of a difference in 1.5" steering wheel diameter. But I also don't autocross either, lol. Not yet anyway.
4th Gen Camaro FE rack with 12:1 ratio (2 turns lock to lock) and a Stage II Type II pump. The pumps pressure and flow can be adjusted to tune the system. Before I had all of this work done I couldnt turn the wheels without rolling and it would still require both hands (steering assist was nonexistent), but now it is effortless.