15 questions to start off
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
15 questions to start off
So I'm your typical little car-guy wanna be, so I thought I'd throw out a few questions to see if anyone could answer any. They are basic questions that I'm sure a lot of you will snicker at, but it would get me one step closer to understanding car parts catalogs! Thank you in advance for any responses.
1. When I look at tires, I see the size as P215 60R15. Rims come in sizes of 15x7, 15x10, 16x8, etc etc, and then again some tires are listed as 26x8.0-15, 33.5x16.5-16. Which of the numbers do I have to match up when I buy one or the other?
2. From my understanding, the bigger the cfm amount for a carb, the bigger the power output (generally). So is it basically "how much can I afford", or are there a bunch of factors involved?
3. When changing to a better carb, should the manifold change as well to accomodate? Is that a job better left to the experienced/well seasoned grease monkeys?
4. I'm not even going to *bother* trying to get into questions about cams/lifters/rockers. All I know is that it's pretty much gibberish. The only question I will ask is do they make that much of a significant difference to engine power/performance?
5. How do I know what GM engine will fit in my car? I presently have a stock 305...are there only certain engines that will fit under the hood in it's place?
6. I know this is truly general....but what is better for the money: A good scrap yard engine taken home and totally redone, or a new crate engine?
7. Oil pans. What's the difference!? Don't they just all hold oil!? I know different motors = different pans....but strip, street/strip, high performance, 15th edition aluminium special limited polycarbonate trans-legal techopolyformed gold plated oil pans..?.....
8. As long as they are the same size, can gauges be swapped easily? What happens to the odometer reading when the gauge is switched out with, say, a digital one? I imagine the counter goes back to zero? Is the key to document the switch, so if you sell the car at a later date you can show at what point you swapped out the gauge?
9. Alternators! 65 amps, 80 amps, 140 amps...once again, is it a question of how much you can afford?
10. Can mufflers be easily replaced at home, or are special tools needed?
11. Glass Packs. Yay, or nay?
12. Super Chargers. Are those kind of passe?
13. Can you ever have too many f-bodies?
14. How much should I expect for a paint job with a few dings to take out? Do I do a Maaco type of thing, or do I want to spend the extra cash and get it done at Bob's Specialty Hot Rod and Classics Automotive Paint Shop?
15. For car club members.....ever think of starting a Big Brother type of deal? Mentoring program?
------------------
I clearly see my window of opportunity..but my screen froze and I can't reboot!
1. When I look at tires, I see the size as P215 60R15. Rims come in sizes of 15x7, 15x10, 16x8, etc etc, and then again some tires are listed as 26x8.0-15, 33.5x16.5-16. Which of the numbers do I have to match up when I buy one or the other?
2. From my understanding, the bigger the cfm amount for a carb, the bigger the power output (generally). So is it basically "how much can I afford", or are there a bunch of factors involved?
3. When changing to a better carb, should the manifold change as well to accomodate? Is that a job better left to the experienced/well seasoned grease monkeys?
4. I'm not even going to *bother* trying to get into questions about cams/lifters/rockers. All I know is that it's pretty much gibberish. The only question I will ask is do they make that much of a significant difference to engine power/performance?
5. How do I know what GM engine will fit in my car? I presently have a stock 305...are there only certain engines that will fit under the hood in it's place?
6. I know this is truly general....but what is better for the money: A good scrap yard engine taken home and totally redone, or a new crate engine?
7. Oil pans. What's the difference!? Don't they just all hold oil!? I know different motors = different pans....but strip, street/strip, high performance, 15th edition aluminium special limited polycarbonate trans-legal techopolyformed gold plated oil pans..?.....
8. As long as they are the same size, can gauges be swapped easily? What happens to the odometer reading when the gauge is switched out with, say, a digital one? I imagine the counter goes back to zero? Is the key to document the switch, so if you sell the car at a later date you can show at what point you swapped out the gauge?
9. Alternators! 65 amps, 80 amps, 140 amps...once again, is it a question of how much you can afford?
10. Can mufflers be easily replaced at home, or are special tools needed?
11. Glass Packs. Yay, or nay?
12. Super Chargers. Are those kind of passe?
13. Can you ever have too many f-bodies?
14. How much should I expect for a paint job with a few dings to take out? Do I do a Maaco type of thing, or do I want to spend the extra cash and get it done at Bob's Specialty Hot Rod and Classics Automotive Paint Shop?
15. For car club members.....ever think of starting a Big Brother type of deal? Mentoring program?
------------------
I clearly see my window of opportunity..but my screen froze and I can't reboot!
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 705
Likes: 0
From: Peoria, IL
Car: 1985 Z-28
Engine: a big one
Transmission: 4 spd auto soon to be a 6 speed
One answer to your queston is about horsepower.
THERE IS NO FREE HORSEPOWER. I wish that that was not true, and horsepower can be one of the most expensive ways to spend your money. but for me it is worth it.
also you need to match all of your engine parts so that they an complement each other. and you can have to big of a carb and whatnot.
not only is horsepower expensive, but it is sometimes hard to make.
THERE IS NO FREE HORSEPOWER. I wish that that was not true, and horsepower can be one of the most expensive ways to spend your money. but for me it is worth it.
also you need to match all of your engine parts so that they an complement each other. and you can have to big of a carb and whatnot.
not only is horsepower expensive, but it is sometimes hard to make.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
From: Orland Park, IL, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Ok my little grasshopper, now it is time to learn.
1. When I look at tires, I see the size as P215 60R15. Rims come in sizes of 15x7, 15x10, 16x8, etc etc, and then again some tires are listed as 26x8.0-15, 33.5x16.5-16. Which of the numbers do I have to match up when I buy one or the other?
When buying passenger car tires, they normally have the sizes marked like your tires, P215 60R15. to break that down for you, the 215 is the width of your tire, in millimeters i think. the 60 is your sidewall heigth, the R is the speed rating, and the 15 is the size rim that you need to run with them. So your car would have like 15x8 rims maybe? Something around there. When a tire size is listed as like 31x10.5-15, then the 31 would be how tall the tire is, the 10.5 would be the tire width, and again the 15 would be the size rim. Im assuming that you want to run bigger tires. My car is running P245/50ZR16's. I have stock 16" rims but the rim is also wider allowing for P245 width tires to be run. Hope that kinda explained that.
2. From my understanding, the bigger the cfm amount for a carb, the bigger the power output (generally). So is it basically "how much can I afford", or are there a bunch of factors involved?
No. The size carb that you need to run is based on a bunch of stuff. there are formulas to figure it out which i do not know. its best left to people who know the formulas to figure out the optimum size carb. You have to take into account the runner size, the intake design, CI of the engine and a whole bunch of stuff. The problem is if you go with a carb that is too big, you slow your air velocity down too much and the cylinders do not fill with the most amount of air and fuel that they can. It all comes down to volumetric efficiency. My buddy has a 1980 RS with a 305. He was running a 650cfm carb on it. My other buddy who is really into cars and knew the formulas to figure out what siz carb to run told him to run like a 390cfm carb. well, my buddy with the 80 RS tried it out and he made a good deal more power and torque with the smaller carb, plus he cut way down on his fuel consumption. So there ya go.
3. When changing to a better carb, should the manifold change as well to accomodate? Is that a job better left to the experienced/well seasoned grease monkeys?
Changing your intake manifold is reletively simple. If you have the cash, changing your intake is a great way to get more power. For a car like yours id recommend the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake. Its a great design that makes good power across the board.
4. I'm not even going to *bother* trying to get into questions about cams/lifters/rockers. All I know is that it's pretty much gibberish. The only question I will ask is do they make that much of a significant difference to engine power/performance?
Sweet Jesus yes. The cam much more then the lifters or rocker arms, but heck yes, the difference between a correct cam for your application and one that you can "make due" with is huge. Id say the cam is one of the most important, if not the most important thing to make sure that you get right when building an engine. And most of the time an off the shelf grind is fairly cheap too. you can pick up a decent cam for around $125-$200. You do have to talk to a knowledgeable tech or speed shop to determine what cam would best suit your application though. To reiterate, THE CAM IS VERY IMPORTANT. The only big deal with lifters is if you are running roller or flat tappet. The roller lifters free up more horse power, but you have to run a cam setup for roller lifters if you want to run them. The ratio of a rocker arm can change your power level also. For a stock engine, going from the stock ratio of 1.5:1 to an aftermarket arm with a ratio of 1.6:1 will give you more HP most of the time as it changes how your valves open. Also, there are non-roller rockers, roller tiped rockers, and full roller rockers. The full rollers free up HP just like roller lifters do by making less friction in the valve train. If you have the cash, and easy upgrade is to go to roller rocker arms. I recommend Harland & Sharp 1.6:1 roller rockers. They are cheaper then the crane golds and probably better quality too.
5. How do I know what GM engine will fit in my car? I presently have a stock 305...are there only certain engines that will fit under the hood in it's place?
Ok, my motto is you can fit anything into anything. It all about how much motivation and cash you have. For your car, any small block GM engine will fit easily. For a beginer, id just do a 350 or a 383 (a 383 is a 350 block with a 400 crank, a whole different story) You could also put a big block in (i.e. 396, 454, 502, etc) but that would require more work and knowledge.
6. I know this is truly general....but what is better for the money: A good scrap yard engine taken home and totally redone, or a new crate engine?
It depends on who you have rebuild the junkyard engine and what kinda HP you want. If you got connections and know what parts to run, the junkyard engine would be a better choice cause it would be cheaper and be done better if you know what your doing. If you dont know what your doing, get a crate engine and save yourself the headache. BUT then again, doing is the only way to learn.
7. Oil pans. What's the difference!? Don't they just all hold oil!? I know different motors = different pans....but strip, street/strip, high performance, 15th edition aluminium special limited polycarbonate trans-legal techopolyformed gold plated oil pans..?.....
Oh god, all you need is a stock pan right now
There are strip pans and road race pans and evenything else. The differences are how they control oil flow and oil location inside the pan itself. Until your lifting tires or running road courses you dont really need to know about them.
8. As long as they are the same size, can gauges be swapped easily? What happens to the odometer reading when the gauge is switched out with, say, a digital one? I imagine the counter goes back to zero? Is the key to document the switch, so if you sell the car at a later date you can show at what point you swapped out the gauge?
No idea on gauge swaping. Never done it and never wanted to.
9. Alternators! 65 amps, 80 amps, 140 amps...once again, is it a question of how much you can afford?
Ya, this is more what can you afford. If you are running a big sound system or lots of electrical stuff, you are gona need a bigger altinator. If your staying stock or close to stock with your electrical, stay with a stock ampage alt.
10. Can mufflers be easily replaced at home, or are special tools needed?
You can do it at home, but save yourself the trouble and have a shop do it for you. Not many guys do exhaust at home, unless they are real good at fabrication, have a pipe bender, and a welder.
11. Glass Packs. Yay, or nay?
Personal preffernce, lots of people call *******, i say if you like them, run them. They do blow out though thats why i wouldnt run them.
12. Super Chargers. Are those kind of passe?
Hell NO, blowers are the best, unless you can afford a turbo setup. There are two main kinda of blowers and it would be a whole nother post to explain them all. Just know that blowers can double your HP with very little work. Just a lot of cost
13. Can you ever have too many f-bodies?
Um, dur, no. unless they are on blocks in your front yard, then yes you have to many.
14. How much should I expect for a paint job with a few dings to take out? Do I do a Maaco type of thing, or do I want to spend the extra cash and get it done at Bob's Specialty Hot Rod and Classics Automotive Paint Shop?
If you dont care how it looks and you just want some paint put down, go to Macco, if you care about how your car looks and you want a good job, take it to Bobs Charge You Up The Butt But We Do A Really Nice Job Hot Rods. You get what you pay for in everything in life, specially paint jobs.
15. For car club members.....ever think of starting a Big Brother type of deal? Mentoring program?
This is the big brother deal. Ask a question, get help. join a local car club. May i reccomend the www.mfba.org ? hehehe Im pretty sure we have a missouri chapter. And if not its almost as good a place to get questions answered. If you want to learn, hook up with other car guys in your area and help them with their projects and have them help you with yours. Thats about the best i can do right now. if i think of something else, ill post it. Never be afraid to ask questions, unless they're dumb in which case we will all laugh and point......just kidding
1. When I look at tires, I see the size as P215 60R15. Rims come in sizes of 15x7, 15x10, 16x8, etc etc, and then again some tires are listed as 26x8.0-15, 33.5x16.5-16. Which of the numbers do I have to match up when I buy one or the other?
When buying passenger car tires, they normally have the sizes marked like your tires, P215 60R15. to break that down for you, the 215 is the width of your tire, in millimeters i think. the 60 is your sidewall heigth, the R is the speed rating, and the 15 is the size rim that you need to run with them. So your car would have like 15x8 rims maybe? Something around there. When a tire size is listed as like 31x10.5-15, then the 31 would be how tall the tire is, the 10.5 would be the tire width, and again the 15 would be the size rim. Im assuming that you want to run bigger tires. My car is running P245/50ZR16's. I have stock 16" rims but the rim is also wider allowing for P245 width tires to be run. Hope that kinda explained that.
2. From my understanding, the bigger the cfm amount for a carb, the bigger the power output (generally). So is it basically "how much can I afford", or are there a bunch of factors involved?
No. The size carb that you need to run is based on a bunch of stuff. there are formulas to figure it out which i do not know. its best left to people who know the formulas to figure out the optimum size carb. You have to take into account the runner size, the intake design, CI of the engine and a whole bunch of stuff. The problem is if you go with a carb that is too big, you slow your air velocity down too much and the cylinders do not fill with the most amount of air and fuel that they can. It all comes down to volumetric efficiency. My buddy has a 1980 RS with a 305. He was running a 650cfm carb on it. My other buddy who is really into cars and knew the formulas to figure out what siz carb to run told him to run like a 390cfm carb. well, my buddy with the 80 RS tried it out and he made a good deal more power and torque with the smaller carb, plus he cut way down on his fuel consumption. So there ya go.
3. When changing to a better carb, should the manifold change as well to accomodate? Is that a job better left to the experienced/well seasoned grease monkeys?
Changing your intake manifold is reletively simple. If you have the cash, changing your intake is a great way to get more power. For a car like yours id recommend the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake. Its a great design that makes good power across the board.
4. I'm not even going to *bother* trying to get into questions about cams/lifters/rockers. All I know is that it's pretty much gibberish. The only question I will ask is do they make that much of a significant difference to engine power/performance?
Sweet Jesus yes. The cam much more then the lifters or rocker arms, but heck yes, the difference between a correct cam for your application and one that you can "make due" with is huge. Id say the cam is one of the most important, if not the most important thing to make sure that you get right when building an engine. And most of the time an off the shelf grind is fairly cheap too. you can pick up a decent cam for around $125-$200. You do have to talk to a knowledgeable tech or speed shop to determine what cam would best suit your application though. To reiterate, THE CAM IS VERY IMPORTANT. The only big deal with lifters is if you are running roller or flat tappet. The roller lifters free up more horse power, but you have to run a cam setup for roller lifters if you want to run them. The ratio of a rocker arm can change your power level also. For a stock engine, going from the stock ratio of 1.5:1 to an aftermarket arm with a ratio of 1.6:1 will give you more HP most of the time as it changes how your valves open. Also, there are non-roller rockers, roller tiped rockers, and full roller rockers. The full rollers free up HP just like roller lifters do by making less friction in the valve train. If you have the cash, and easy upgrade is to go to roller rocker arms. I recommend Harland & Sharp 1.6:1 roller rockers. They are cheaper then the crane golds and probably better quality too.
5. How do I know what GM engine will fit in my car? I presently have a stock 305...are there only certain engines that will fit under the hood in it's place?
Ok, my motto is you can fit anything into anything. It all about how much motivation and cash you have. For your car, any small block GM engine will fit easily. For a beginer, id just do a 350 or a 383 (a 383 is a 350 block with a 400 crank, a whole different story) You could also put a big block in (i.e. 396, 454, 502, etc) but that would require more work and knowledge.
6. I know this is truly general....but what is better for the money: A good scrap yard engine taken home and totally redone, or a new crate engine?
It depends on who you have rebuild the junkyard engine and what kinda HP you want. If you got connections and know what parts to run, the junkyard engine would be a better choice cause it would be cheaper and be done better if you know what your doing. If you dont know what your doing, get a crate engine and save yourself the headache. BUT then again, doing is the only way to learn.
7. Oil pans. What's the difference!? Don't they just all hold oil!? I know different motors = different pans....but strip, street/strip, high performance, 15th edition aluminium special limited polycarbonate trans-legal techopolyformed gold plated oil pans..?.....
Oh god, all you need is a stock pan right now
There are strip pans and road race pans and evenything else. The differences are how they control oil flow and oil location inside the pan itself. Until your lifting tires or running road courses you dont really need to know about them. 8. As long as they are the same size, can gauges be swapped easily? What happens to the odometer reading when the gauge is switched out with, say, a digital one? I imagine the counter goes back to zero? Is the key to document the switch, so if you sell the car at a later date you can show at what point you swapped out the gauge?
No idea on gauge swaping. Never done it and never wanted to.
9. Alternators! 65 amps, 80 amps, 140 amps...once again, is it a question of how much you can afford?
Ya, this is more what can you afford. If you are running a big sound system or lots of electrical stuff, you are gona need a bigger altinator. If your staying stock or close to stock with your electrical, stay with a stock ampage alt.
10. Can mufflers be easily replaced at home, or are special tools needed?
You can do it at home, but save yourself the trouble and have a shop do it for you. Not many guys do exhaust at home, unless they are real good at fabrication, have a pipe bender, and a welder.
11. Glass Packs. Yay, or nay?
Personal preffernce, lots of people call *******, i say if you like them, run them. They do blow out though thats why i wouldnt run them.
12. Super Chargers. Are those kind of passe?
Hell NO, blowers are the best, unless you can afford a turbo setup. There are two main kinda of blowers and it would be a whole nother post to explain them all. Just know that blowers can double your HP with very little work. Just a lot of cost
13. Can you ever have too many f-bodies?
Um, dur, no. unless they are on blocks in your front yard, then yes you have to many.
14. How much should I expect for a paint job with a few dings to take out? Do I do a Maaco type of thing, or do I want to spend the extra cash and get it done at Bob's Specialty Hot Rod and Classics Automotive Paint Shop?
If you dont care how it looks and you just want some paint put down, go to Macco, if you care about how your car looks and you want a good job, take it to Bobs Charge You Up The Butt But We Do A Really Nice Job Hot Rods. You get what you pay for in everything in life, specially paint jobs.
15. For car club members.....ever think of starting a Big Brother type of deal? Mentoring program?
This is the big brother deal. Ask a question, get help. join a local car club. May i reccomend the www.mfba.org ?
hehehe Im pretty sure we have a missouri chapter. And if not its almost as good a place to get questions answered. If you want to learn, hook up with other car guys in your area and help them with their projects and have them help you with yours. Thats about the best i can do right now. if i think of something else, ill post it. Never be afraid to ask questions, unless they're dumb in which case we will all laugh and point......just kidding Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
*bows and hails to 88blkiroc*
Thank you so much for taking the time to go through all of those one by one!
I've already looked into the MFBA, and will be joining the ranks shortly!
------------------
I clearly see my window of opportunity..but my screen froze and I can't reboot!
Thank you so much for taking the time to go through all of those one by one!
I've already looked into the MFBA, and will be joining the ranks shortly!
------------------
I clearly see my window of opportunity..but my screen froze and I can't reboot!
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
From: Orland Park, IL, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.45
No problem, you many worship at my feet now Im glad to hear your checking out the MFBA, we rock hahahaha Man, we've got more thirdgenners to join lately, its amazing. We should call it the M3GFBA hehehe
Im glad to hear your checking out the MFBA, we rock hahahaha Man, we've got more thirdgenners to join lately, its amazing. We should call it the M3GFBA hehehe 
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,272
Likes: 2
From: Muskego, WI
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70
I'll jump in on a few of these.
#3. If you are changing intakes, it is very easy. Just take your time and mark everything and you'll be fine. This was my first ever car mod when I was 16 (seems like forever). RPM Air gap would be great but it has 2 disadvantages. 1) Theres no way it'll fit under a stock TA hood with a 3 inch air cleaner. Probably not even with a 2" air cleaner and 2) No EGR so if you have emissions it will not work. That said if you have emissions switching carbs is a big no-no as well. As an aside to this if you switch carbs you'll need a non computer controlled distributor.
#4 YEs huge difference if matched correctly. I can attest to a poorly matched combination. I've done cam change and a bunch of other stuff, but my heads are crap. Result, better than stock but dog *** slow compared to what it could be if I would have picked a cam to match my heads, or spent some dough on decent heads. When it's time for that step best advice is to call the cam manufacturers and get their opinions. Always learn from others mistakes.
#8 86-92 gauge clusters "should" be the same. I'm not sure about what to do if you want to go to the 88 digital style. 85 looks the same as the 86-92 but has a mechanical speedo. 82-84 should be the same. I went with all Autometers for mine. Pics are on my page - link in sig.
In regards to paint jobs, mine cost me about $2 grand, and I honestly got it for a steal. Just so happens my neighbor does body work and painting as a hobby. The car was completely stripped and redone. Most shops were qouting me around $4-6 for the same work. Ask around at car shows and definetly get involved with local car clubs. Chance are one of the guys is a painter and will cut you a deal, not too mention you may be able to help and learn something.
Good luck. If you have any questions feel free to email me.
------------------
1985 ASCD Ram Air Trans Am
http://www.execpc.com/~karpsta/home.html
to find out more
-=ICON Motorsports=-
#3. If you are changing intakes, it is very easy. Just take your time and mark everything and you'll be fine. This was my first ever car mod when I was 16 (seems like forever). RPM Air gap would be great but it has 2 disadvantages. 1) Theres no way it'll fit under a stock TA hood with a 3 inch air cleaner. Probably not even with a 2" air cleaner and 2) No EGR so if you have emissions it will not work. That said if you have emissions switching carbs is a big no-no as well. As an aside to this if you switch carbs you'll need a non computer controlled distributor.
#4 YEs huge difference if matched correctly. I can attest to a poorly matched combination. I've done cam change and a bunch of other stuff, but my heads are crap. Result, better than stock but dog *** slow compared to what it could be if I would have picked a cam to match my heads, or spent some dough on decent heads. When it's time for that step best advice is to call the cam manufacturers and get their opinions. Always learn from others mistakes.
#8 86-92 gauge clusters "should" be the same. I'm not sure about what to do if you want to go to the 88 digital style. 85 looks the same as the 86-92 but has a mechanical speedo. 82-84 should be the same. I went with all Autometers for mine. Pics are on my page - link in sig.
In regards to paint jobs, mine cost me about $2 grand, and I honestly got it for a steal. Just so happens my neighbor does body work and painting as a hobby. The car was completely stripped and redone. Most shops were qouting me around $4-6 for the same work. Ask around at car shows and definetly get involved with local car clubs. Chance are one of the guys is a painter and will cut you a deal, not too mention you may be able to help and learn something.
Good luck. If you have any questions feel free to email me.
------------------
1985 ASCD Ram Air Trans Am
http://www.execpc.com/~karpsta/home.html
to find out more
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Valley Center,Kansas
Car: 92RS
Engine: LS 402 inwork
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt,3:73's
About those tire sizes, not to step on anyone's feet. Lets just use a size like 275/50/15
275=millimeters across the whole tire inner bead to outer bead
50=is percentage of the 275 that is side wall, so that would be about 137.5. Thats 137.5 of contact patch, and about 68.7 for each sidewall, giving you the total of 275
15=rim diameter
I hope that you get the picture. So just cause the first # is big (275) remember the second # (50) will tell you how much will actually be touching the pavement.
------------------
White 92 RS,388 cu.in.N/A
3.73 gears,auburn posi
Best 60 ft : 1.97
Best 1/4 : 12.679
Steve Spohn
Rear Suspension
Autometer guages
Extremely Loud Stereo !
Driven Daily
HOOKER LT's SOON!!! & 4 inch Exh.
275=millimeters across the whole tire inner bead to outer bead
50=is percentage of the 275 that is side wall, so that would be about 137.5. Thats 137.5 of contact patch, and about 68.7 for each sidewall, giving you the total of 275
15=rim diameter
I hope that you get the picture. So just cause the first # is big (275) remember the second # (50) will tell you how much will actually be touching the pavement.
------------------
White 92 RS,388 cu.in.N/A
3.73 gears,auburn posi
Best 60 ft : 1.97
Best 1/4 : 12.679
Steve Spohn
Rear Suspension
Autometer guages
Extremely Loud Stereo !
Driven Daily
HOOKER LT's SOON!!! & 4 inch Exh.
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