stall ??
yep, thats pretty much it. depending on your brakes, tires and motor you may not be able to get it to the "advertised" stall speed without it pushing the car across the line. just hold the brakes hard and run the motor up until you feel it start pushing the car ahead and hold for the light, then release and nail the throttle.
by the way, I have found that if I release the brake and punch the gas when the 3'rd yellow lights I can cut mid-5's lights. just a hint.
by the way, I have found that if I release the brake and punch the gas when the 3'rd yellow lights I can cut mid-5's lights. just a hint.
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
With my new playback tach I can really see what the engine is doing during a run. I never realized how much the stall affects the launch.
My first pass was the best. I launched off the transbrake at 3000 rpm. The converter flashed to 5500 and the rpms held there for a couple of seconds until the vehicle speed caught up, then the rpms started climbing until I shifted at 6800.
Having a higher stall lets the engine's rpm move quickly into it's powerband.
Foot braking, you can bring the rpms up to just before the tires break traction. Foot braking stall and advertised stall are not usually the same. It's easy to overpower the vehicles brakes.
My first pass was the best. I launched off the transbrake at 3000 rpm. The converter flashed to 5500 and the rpms held there for a couple of seconds until the vehicle speed caught up, then the rpms started climbing until I shifted at 6800.
Having a higher stall lets the engine's rpm move quickly into it's powerband.
Foot braking, you can bring the rpms up to just before the tires break traction. Foot braking stall and advertised stall are not usually the same. It's easy to overpower the vehicles brakes.
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