What household type product can stop the rubber from the BFG`s sticking to the quaters and wheelwells? Just wondering if anyone has something they use to prevent the long clean up time after several burnouts? I was thinking of using some sort of agent that would stop the rubber from sticking or make it easy to remove, what should I use?

 

Overlapping masking tape on the lower quaters before you do burnouts is a good idea...when your done you just take the tape off with all the rubber on it.

 

I've heard people use baby oil, just wipes off after you're done for the night.

 

WD-40 Use #328...

 

WD40. Used by racers everywhere.

 

yea but wont WD40 cause blemishes in the paint though?

 

No.

 

PAM cooking spray too.

 

Maguires, and I think some other car care companies, make a spray on wax that works really good for this.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys! Yea, I went to the track and didn`t use anything, in a rush as always and realized, as I was pulling into the gates, that I had forgotten to bring Anything Well, went thru the burnout box several times with 30-50 second burnouts and guess what?? the rubber just brushed right off the quarters with my hand! No wonder I couldn`t hook the thing worth a darn Last set of BFG`s I had i had to use a solvent to get burnout rubber off the panels, maybe it was the tires , maybe the track?

 

The reason you couldn't hook was "30-50 second burnouts". That's about 25-45 seconds too long.

 

SO shouldn`t have the rubber at least been stuck to the quarters?

I have tried different lengths and speeds at which to heat the BFG`s, this was my third set now. This set seemed to be longest wearing pair I`ve had but they have never gone in the 1.6`s like the last pair I had. (actually 1.70 best to date with these) I have made ALOT of changes to the car (for traction and power) but basically I can blow the tires off the car at will. The last set I had were on the last ride and I decide to john force`em at the box, I had third gear at 7,000 for at least 25-30 seconds...rubber was on the hood even! Funny thing was that the car pulled a 1.67 and went 11.90`s...this is after being in the 12.0-12.20 area with 1.8`s to 2.0 60`s all day. Wierd I thought but now I`m just thinking freak. I have passed the point of BFG`s truly bogging the car at the light, the car just won`t hit`em that hard, so M/T`s are next for me.

 

this car right here runs 11.90's all day long on a 275/60 bfg tire/stock style suspension without any spining problems, does about a 10 second burnout...granted, it's a foot brake car, but look at the tire wrinkle


this car right here runs 8.60's all day long on a 325/60 bfg tire/stock style suspension without any spining problems, about a 15 second burnout.


alot of your problems may be with track prep, but i can garuantee it's more to do with suspension setup, make sure your pinion angle is set right and stuff ( I want to say that -1* is a good starting point) my point: these tires work and i have many other pics of different cars launching just as hard or harder...

 

I know there are many cars capable running many seconds faster than me on BFG`s....I would like to "wrinkle" the side walls, but with a 255 50 16 there just isn`t much sidewall to wrinkle @ 16psi.

I agree with you about the suspension, it`s all new and I have not had a lot of time with it at the track, the torque arm is a spohn chrome moly with the rod ends, I had it all over the place, all the way to -6*, which did hit the tires hard but vibrated so bad I couldn`t run the 1/4. The vibes are better at -1*, but the traction is poor.

I have the relocators for the lower control arms on the bottom hole. To me these have not made a difference at all, but hopefully they will shine once everything is working together

The lower control arms, I have swapped those out too... tubular slp`s with poly bushings...I felt a difference instantly. the car lifts much more even in the front and rides a little stiffer in the rear. I also did a poly bushing panhard too.

There is one thing bothering me with the suspension right now, when I brake torque it, the car rear raises up about 3-4 inches, this all started with the new t/a from spohn, The car used to "squat" when brake torqued....For some reason, maybe the really heavy front wieght I have, the car left the line better when it would squat.

Track prep was bad prior to me being there, I had talked to a few a z28.com that said "that`s the last 20.00 they`ll get from me".
I`ll be trying Milian next...I will at least have something to compare these last runs too. here is a picture of it lifting the rear

 

Theoretically, lifting the rear is a good thing. In order for the rear of the car to go up, it has to be pushing down on something - asssumed to be the rear axle. Pushing down on the axle means more force to provide traction at the tire/track contact.

 

What the? The black car looks cool but it's got hubcaps on the rims! Unless the hubcaps are screwed on, they're supposed to be taken off or it won't pass tech.

 

What track did you go to greeze?

 

hey monkey, what size cowl hood is that? Bolt or lift off?

looks sharp

mmm...cowl hood:hail:

Brandon

 

Ubly dragway, in Ubly MI


Thanks, It`s a 3 inch crowl from harwood and it`s a bolt on style

 

that black car is my fathers car, it's got two allen screws screwed into the back to hold them on the wheel.(completely invisible from the outside of the rim) car is completely street legal too. we race with the National Street Car Association (NSCA) and follow all NHRA/IHRA rules.

 

With a big block's inherent high amount of torque, plus the torque multiplication of your 700r4's low first gear, it's IMO that you are just plain overpowering those small tires (all the chassis tuning in the world won't fix it). If you have a 3.73 or higher numerical rear end ratio, you should probably consider a shallower gear, if you really want to use those tires with your combo. Personally, I'd strongly consider getting a TH400 trans which would be better suited for your application (shallower first gear, much stronger). Don't expect Milan's traction to be any better (especially on a non-race day), and you certainly won't be able to make near as many runs. Also, unlike Ubly, as soon as you hit 11's at Milan with your car, you better have ALL the necessary equipment, or else you'll be making only half-track passes.

 

255 width, 50 series, 30 second burnouts - all contributing to failure.

255 - too narrow.

50 series - sidewall too short.

Long burnout - more smoke, higher temp, no additional benefit.

I'm not going as fast as you guys, but you don't have to do something necessarily to know if it's the right thing or not. When I ran DR's, I asked BFG about burnout technique. Their response: Don't do a burnout. Just turn the tires enough to clean them. The traction is in the compound.

Of course, we out in the real world know more about their product than they do...

 

I haven't tried it but I read SPAM works (non-stik spray for frying pans)

 

I think you are confused with PAM, mentioned above. SPAM is more of a "I can't believe its not meat" product, not a cooking spray

 

 

I know not the reason for your post but... I have jegster TQ arm and had many of same problems - car loaded rear so hard that it would totally extend causing loss in traction..
Some things you can do to counter act and let it work for you..

Softer rear springs making it harder to raise rear.
Adjustable rebound shocks to slow that effect.
Lower car to allow more travel.
Try leaving not on converter so hard to allow tire to plant, You rear is raised so high you lost the mechanical advantage of the TQ arm to benifit you.

Here is a pic launching and one just sitting.
http://www.pittsburghracewaypark.com...m=101&pid=6591

http://www.team3rdgen.com/modules.ph...view_photo.php

 

Thanks, sounds like some good advise...I do have adjustable rear shocks but the extension length is too long..I think they are for a 67-69 camaro,(possibly not allowing full travel ?) anyways I was under the car later that week and did noitce that the passenger rear shock was leaking oil I had them set for "most bite" the instructions listed this as 50/50 but with one gushing oil I`m sure this is why it would lift so easily.

About the rear springs, they "were" stockers for a 85 Z but I had put an extra spacer in them years ago, I have switched to the moog cargo`s but removed all of the spacers..so it`s a lot lower now but still raises up when tourqed.

going to lower the front for next year, also going to 90/10 and new elcheapo shocks in the rear