Has anyone that is running slicks or even drag radials in the low 13's had problems with the factory u joints holding up ? I just do not want any surprises because it is fairly inexpensive to have more heavy duty u joints installed. Vehicle specs; 90 GTA, 5.7, built 700r4 w/2800 stall (shifts hard as I requested to the builder)3:23 gears. Probably 50 1/4 mile passes in stock form running low 14's. Just installed Crane Powermax cam, headers, rollertip rockers, AFPR, true double roller timing chain and gears. I have not run it yet with mods. I will probably be lucky to be pushing 300 h.p., should I be concerned with the u joints? I will be racing it often and with slicks.

 

I raced for 2 seasons, everyweekend at any track that had an event with countless passes and I never had trouble with the u-joints...it was always the rear ends (4) that blew out for some reason??

Was only running 1.70-1.78 60's back then, but I think as long as your current U-joints are in good shape, the General (GM) has the safety factor built into the ring gear so it will implode before anything else does LOL.

 

At 300 hp and an automatic transmission, I wouldn't worry about the factory u-joints. If they're worn they will fail but if they're in good condition, other parts will fail first.

I use 1350 series u-joints but mainly because I also launch with a transbrake.

 

I agree with IHI and Stephen, I ran two seasons in my old TTA on the stock steel driveshaft, u-joints, and rear for that matter - consistant 11.9-12.0 car at 113mph with a best 60ft on 1.63

I now run a 3" moly shaft w/1350 joints after I had a stock style alum shaft fail(ripped in two actually)in the mid 11's w/60fts in the high 1.5's

HTH,
Steve

 

Thanks for the replies !

 

Still stock joints on a stock 89 alum Driveshaft. Stock rear to