i have a 87 iroc 305 tpi going to be race car all gutted interior no a/c no heater only thing left inside is dash shell. no front sway bar. the car has 90/10 lakewood struts 50/50 shocks
summit racing seats the plastic ones. weld prostars 15x6 in front with 215/50/15's out back 15x8 with 295/50/15's. harwood 4" fibergalss liftoff cowl. the only thing done to the engine are hooker shorty headers true duals to dynomax race
bullets. msd blater 2 coil. relocated battery. what do you think i would run. if everything goes alright.

 

2.

 

Mid 14s would be doable. If its going to be a race car though, invest in some slicks. They may not make your 305 car that much faster but you should be a ton more consistant.

Good luck and post your results.

Trevor

 

put the interior back in that car now!

mine runs 13.7's all day long with my 305 and i drive mine to work everday of the week with full interior and most all creature features (no ac though).

 

Dude mw66nova how far is your track above sea level? I'm hoping to break 13's in my 305 sea level corrected of coarse seeing as i'm 4400 ft. above sea level. i'm running 14.4's right now but i'm putting in 373's (323 stock). Sorry dont mean to hi jack the post. How much lighter is it with the interior out of it? i cant imaginge it would be that much lighter.

 

the interior of the car when i got it was CRAP!!!!!!
really really bad i was planing on redoing the interior later on
mabye. i am going to be racing at norwalk raceway i plan on building a new engine later on thats why i havent really done anything to the 305. i am hopeing somewhere in the 14's

 

if you do some serious weight watching, the interior can stay in at minimal weight. i redid the interior in my car a few months ago and when i did, i replaced the stock carpet with an ACC peice. the stock stuff weighs a TON! it has a rubber back to it that makes for a very heavy carpet. the ACC doesn't. i also took out all sound deadening materials. when i bought my fourtgen seats, the tracks were so rusted, they were falling apart (sat in a j/y with t-tops out). they are non-powered seats, and with the thirdgen seat tracks, (which bolted right up...) they weighed about 10+lbs. less each than stock thirdgen seats!

i saved roughly 70lbs. doing that. take another 40lbs. out if i remove the sub and rear seat, but those normally stay in cause i don't like the way these cars look without back seats, and i like to hear a good low end in my music.

my track here is about 700ft above seal level.

p.s. steve, i hope you know i was just giving you a hard time, and not really flaming you about pulling the interior. i just have a thing for cars with full interiors...
my interior:

 

The first response already beat me to it. If it's going to be a race car, get rid of the street tires and buy some slicks.

You still have a long way to go to "gut" the interior but you've made a good start. You still have inner door panels. Probably still have the crash bar inside the door and full glass. You still have a full steering column. There's 10 pounds of steel wrapped around the 3/4" steering shaft. You still have most of the dash face although it's mostly plastic.

Don't expect any big improvements with simple bolt on stuff on the engine. Headers is a good start but cam and heads is what makes the most power. The factory TPI is very limiting.

 

ya when i baught the car i was just looking to make a drag car
out of it and really wanted a camaro and found this. the guy who had it befor me was going to make a race car out of it to and had already started taking it apart inside but his wife told him to sell it so i got it off of him. when i get the new engine done its going to be a full race car but untill then i plan on driving on the street.