Besides the obvious answer of practice, what mods will give me some awesome reliable 60fts? Torque arm, stiffer springs and struts, spring blockers, SFC's, what?

I want to hit the gas and go with minimal fuss and wheelspin. I can practice with stock components all day long, but the 2.73's give me a false sense of traction. I have 3.42's waiting in my garage for install.

Thanks!

 

Gears, stall, tires.

Then work on keeping it from shaking - poly bushings, boxed LCA's.

I wouldn't consider SFCs optional on any non-class-limited-modifications 3rd gen.

 

What stall would you recomend? 2800 or 3200? I will have 3.42's, and hopefully some Hooker 2055's and a cutout. Bump up the Fuel Pressure and timing, a burnt chip and some fat 255/50zr16 tires.

I meant LCA's not SFC's. All these abbrevs. are tough to register when typing so fast.

 

Sticky tires. All the trick suspension parts won't do a thing if the tires spin off the line.

 

yeah tires are the biggest part. the stock suspension is good, unless you lowered it at all

if lowered, then get some lower control arms and brackets. cheap easy mod.

also, good shocks help. i am running tokico adjustables and run stiff out back, and softest up front and it helps me cut some good times.

and good torque converter, like 2800 stall.


my two bests are 1.895 and 1.882. the 1.89 with 2.77 gears, 1.88 with 3.27's

i have those shocks, eibach prokit springs, panhard bar, lowercontrol arms with brackets, and 2800 stall. stock iroc rims with 245/50/zr16's street tires. tread ware rating of 180 so they are very soft. they hook well but on the street they can spin pretty easily. i have to walk it off before WOT

oh and this is on a L98 tpi, all stock except for headers/catback

 

Sticky tires, M/T ET Street's or M/T drag radials would be my choice.

My old TTA went consistant 1.633 60fts with 26x11.5x16 ET Streets on stock GTA wheels, 100% stock suspension and just about stock drivetrain with a good tune.

HTH,
Steve

 

That would launch you nicely, but kill you on the top end with stock TPI.

2000-2500 would be more like it until you get more cam and upgrade the TPI.

 

What is stock set at, 1500? I thought the L98 cam was pretty good, still not good enough?

 

"Stock" stall varied. Some 1500, some 1800, some etc., etc., etc. Where does yours stall at now?

The L98 cam may have been the best the factory put in 3rd gens, but that doesn't mean it's pretty good. A Comp XE268 would walk all over the L98, although mods to the TPI would be required to get the most out of it.

 

How do I tell where it's stalls at? I know that it doesn't take much at all.

 

The best method is with a playback tach.

Most people warm it up, find a place where they can be at a full stop without bothering anyone (parking lot), put on the park brake, hold the foot brake, and run the RPMs up to see how far they will climb.

 

brake down and apply throttle till the wheels spin. they will spin abit before full stall tho, but it will give you an idea.

i have 2800 on a stock TPI and it launches me really well. but i guess it does hurt on the top end

 

Before you buy any suspension parts get sticky tires and go to the track... My car effortlessly hit 1.70's with the factory suspension on 27x10.5" Hoosier QTP's. It squats and goes with no tire spin.

 

So slicks, won't they break my rear end? I mean I don't go to the track every week so I'm not going to do to much damage to the car, but once a year. However, I don't want that 'once a year' time to the track, the day I shatter the rear end, ya know?

So is a 2500 stall in my best interests? I plan on headers and porting the TPI a bit, a nice CAI that I have but I removed.

 

I've seen guys hit asinine 60 ft's on stock 10-bolts and have them last. They'll eventually break but I wouldnt worry about it unless you have big plans...

Ya know, most people I know with 10-bolts that break are all either running drag radials or just regular street tires... I'd be willing to bet wheel hop is a bigger killer than hard hooking.

 

My thoughts exactly.

I have 500 or more passes on my 10 bolt with 4.10 gears and its still going strong. I don't even have one of those over priced differential covers.

 

Cool thanks guys. I shall start saving for a 2500 stall and some slicks.

 

Hey man, I have a 2400 stall im selling out of my car. If I can get $150 for it, im happy. Im going a different route with the car than I was when I bought it. Since youre so close to me, PM me for my number if youre interested.

 

Not necessarily… my stock converter in my ’87 formula starts spinning the tires right around 1200rpm, but the data logs show on a hard launch on RADIALS hitting 2300rpm before the vss measures any motion.

 

I can only footbrake my car to 2200RPM but my converter will flash at 4000+RPM...

I found that if I go 35mph'ish in 3rd gear then stab the throttle the tach will immediately jump a little over 4000RPM and actually sit there for a split second then the car will take off. I still have the stock tach in my car so I'm guessing its off by atleast a few hundred RPM.

 

my stock tach is roughly 200rpm short off of the data logs

 

My 3700 lb. TA is running average 60' times in the 1.58 - 1.61 range. Obviously the 383 is helping make these times happen, but I started with the suspension first. I suggest the following combination: BFG Drag radials in 255/50 R16 -- 18lbs with smokey burnout through the wet box; Southside subframe connectors; No front sway bar; Hotckis rear control arms and panhard bar; Eibach Drag Launch spring kit with rear passenger air bag -- Preload the rear with 28 lbs to the bag. Koni adjustable shocks set to soft.

Mine is the '87 --> third one down -

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...0106hpp_event/


J383....