well my trans felt like its moving around some on hard throttle off of first gear.. so i thought maybe my trans mount is bad.

i took a look and it does seem old and worn out. so i thought came to my head, maybe i should just get a torque arm while i'm at it.

this excites me some, as this mount must have been moving around when i went to the track last week and pulled 1.80 60 foot. i think with a torque arm and new mount i could hit 1.75 or something.

i was looking into the Spohn setup but after searching, i'm abit worried about the crossmember flexing and ripping bolts out the subframe.. or even causing some stress to the subframes...
I dont have subframe connectors yet....
should i go spohn TA and get the subframes too at the same time?

another thing i was lookin at was, SW race cars setup. it requires their subframe connectors so i figured..hell i might as well bite the bullet and buy it all at once and use their TA and SFC setup. kill two birds with one stone. quite pricey tho. but seem worth it
http://www.swracecars.com/pdf/stockerparts.pdf

what do you guys think? any suggestions appreciated. should i go for the torque arm? i heard of the jegster TA but didnt like the idea that i had to pull seats and carpet... but if i have to oh well. Do i stand a good chance on really improving my 60 foot?

 

well since i just got the BMR Trak Pak and sice your planning ongetting subframe connectors. cause with the BMR it has its own crossmember that you have to mount to the SFC's and it will take the stress off your torgue that your worried about but you reslly shouldnt be cause think about it when you take off it pulls up on your trans crossmember and when you brake then it pulls down and you cant brake that hard. ill have to get pics of mine BMR even gives you a choice of colors for the torgue arm but the crossmember is black and its really good paint when we welded it in. it didnt even burn off and it seemed really strong ill tell everyone how good it works as soon as i get times good luck and hope which ever you pick your happy with Later Daniel

 

i like the trak pak, but i heard it sits low and drags on things... and my car is lowered and sits very low. exhaust is about 3-4inches off ground. so i think i'm gonna try the spohn torque arm and just skip subframe connects for now... but that should be my upcoming mods after the TA

 

Should have no problems with the Spohn - Downfalls though, heavy as heck,
and does not work with Mufflex exhaust, but I think it can be modified though to work.
You may not care about that, but chances are later down the road you will want long tubes for increased performance.
My car is lowered with longtubes, no problem if that was a concern.

I like the jegster on my trans am, its pretty light, does not interfer with anything, adds a little noise but not much. A little on the short side and plants a little to hard on my T/A. But you will be just fine with it.
Easy to install, just removes seats and pull carpet in back over console.
Just have to remove step panels I think.

Both are good choices though. And work great.
Did have the frame problems on my Camaro, but after resupporting there has been no problem. We will see what transbrake does at 5500 though.

 

You'll be better off with the spohn setup. I've been running their crossmember and adjustable torque arm for a Powerglide for 2 years now without any problems. 1.45 60ft. I have the their subframe connectors too. was a little pricey, but worth it to me cause the car leaves hard and straight.

 

thanks for the replies! i'm thinkin Spohn right now. i can get one at a good price so i'm leaning that way. Plus it has a drive shaft loop which is great to have since i'm under 13.99 and running slicks. i hope it improves my 60's. lol if i can get into the mid 1.7s i'll be very happy

i do plan on a strong 383 or 406...probly 383 tho. i'd love to get longtubes. if i do go that route, i'm gonna get a custom y pipe fabbed up from 1st Try engineering down in pittsburgh. the guy does good work with exhaust from what i seen so far, and at a decent price. i probly could use a good 4inch or 3.5inch single exhaust when that motor is built sometime down the road

 

I've had the Spohn arm on for 6 years. Here's some pros and cons.
PROS
* no more broken tranny mounts
* adjustable pinion angle
* looks trick

CONS
* 18 lbs heavier than stock x-member and arm
* Axle bracket can contact the floorpan in the driver's side tranny tunnel. This is almost guaranteed if you've lowered the car. Massaging the bracket and drilling a new set of holes to pull the bracket towards the center of the car helps but doesn't eliminate the possibility.
* Haven't been able to improve on the 1.80 sec 60' times achieved with 0 deg pinion angle when dialing in varying amounts of negative pinion angle. Can't say the torque arm doesn't work since my suspension is set up for handling with lowered 700 lb/in front and 160 lb/in rear springs, but I was hoping for some tangible gains that I haven't been able to find yet.

If I knew then what I do now, I'd wouldn't install the arm until I added quite a bit more power and had the rest of the suspension set up for drag.

 

thats a good point..

my car is setup mainly for road handling...i got prokit springs and the front sits very low while the rear is about 1inch lower than stock if that. probly 3/4 inch lower. so it has abit of a rake stance but looks better once i have ET streets on which fills the wheel well

prokit springs are 700+inch up front and progressive 110-170 rear i believe. so not the greatest for dragging. but adjustable shocks helps me some.. i can setup the front soft to get that weight transfer back, while keepin the rear somewhat stiff to stop rear end haunchin but get good suspension lift out of it. it leaves like it should or atleast i think so.

if i have too, i'll get some stock springs or v6 springs for the rear and change them out before i go to the track when i change wheels/tires.

if it doesnt help ET street traction i hope it helps my street tire traction on the road! that gets abit ridiculous. lol. or better yet, i hope it helps handling some too!

 

I just purchased and am in the middle of installing the Spohn t/a ..... Its a very nice piece but one thing i really dont like is since i have l/ts i have to get a custom exhaust, which i never knew because there was no disclaimer on the site.... The exhaust i had planned to run is hooker supercomps and a mufflex y-pipe.... that isnt gonna work because the cross member drops down too low ... i was just gonna sell it and get something different so maybe i could run the l/ts and y-pipe but why should i compromise suspension for exhaust? Its a very nice piece and its worth some sacrifice... Im just gonna have an exhaust custom made and be happy...Just something to look into when ordering this piece...

 

Yeah I always forget about that. Not the ideal setup for a street machine wanting to keep an exhaust that won't drag the ground. I have the Hooker Long tubes, then custom 3" pipes out into 2 dynamax bullets right under the seats. Also the spohn subframe connecters won't work real well with a factory type exhaust setup if you put in the Y connectors with it.

 

now thats interesting! those y connectors really help from what i seen. spohn even says no exhaust or floorboard mods are necessary. i was thinkin of goin spohn too since most everything else i have is spohn so far. lol

 

well the Y connector on the passenger side runs right across where the factory exhaust would go. So you might could wedge it under the exhaust somehow if its not too close to the floor of the car.

 

like this?

 

yeah like that. I couldnt remember how close the factory exhaust was to the car. Thats how mine is, only the Y bar is connected directly to the SFC, but that looks like it will work.

 

i have heard that the spohn hangs lower than BMR i have mine installed in the car but the trans isnt and it does hang lower than the stock of course i didnt think it hangs that low ill have to look again im putting long tubes on my car with a custom y pipe so i glad i went with BMR good luck with your choice Later Daniel

 

I can't imagine running without SFCs.

I had to cut & box the front end of the Spohn square passenger side SFC to clear the 2055 y-pipe after poly engine mounts were installed. A pain, took some time, but really not that big of a deal. I never assume things will bolt right in, so I'm rarely disappointed.

I helped a bud put the Spohn torque arm and crossmember in his '92 auto. They apparently drilled the crossmember mount holes with the template backwards, because I had to elongate the bolt holes to get the thing to fit - If I could have flipped it around, it would have bolted right up.

 

any specific torque ratings on those crossmember bolts? i would guess there might be, i didnt check my chiltons manual. lol

 

I just got mine as tight as I could with a ratchet and a 15mm socket. Definately don't want them to come loose.