Does the NHRA or IHRA say anything about wheel spacers?

Looks like to fit the wheels that I want to run properly I’ll end up with 3/16” – ½” spacers (I know, that’s a big range but it depends on how tight things really are on the inside and how much I modify the inner fenders), and anything over probably around 5/16 will be at the very least hubcentric like the eibach pro spacers (me being **** retentive I’ll probably make threaded inserts around the lugs or make the holes in the spacers match the shouldered studs just to make sure that I can’t have any motion/flex in that range), so I’m not worried about safety,just being legal at the track.

 

Nothing in the rulebook about wheel spacers. Just as long as there's enough wheel stud going through the rims.

 

However, I was just looking through a Competition Engineering catalog and on the page listing the Moroso wheel studs in a bright read box it says:

Warning! Do not use any of these wheel studs with wheel spacers.

 

yea, not really worried about moroso... I may grab those wheels and experiment... I had the thought that I have an extra set of moser axle end logos sitting around the garage, if the hub centric spacers look too obvious I could very easily make little inserts and cover the ends with the moser logos and no one would be the wiser…

 

Funny you should mention that. I just got my new axles today and I put the end logos on the axles.

My old axles are from Strange and I like the Moser axles better. The Strange axles are tapered and couldn't be shortened even if I could find someone who could shorten them. The Moser axles are not tapered and could be cut down and resplined more however I'd have a dragster differential if it was any shorter. Total width of the new diff is 40". 45" from axle flange to axle flange. Shorter axles and non tapered. Even with old and new axles at 31 spline, I shouldn't hurt either.

2 things got screwed up with the new axles. The 5/8" wheel stud kit was lost in shipping and had to be reordered and the center flange was ordered slightly bigger than what I measured. My drum don't fit over it. Nothing a die grinder to the drums can't fix. I also need to drill out the wheel stud holes in the drums to 5/8". Maybe 11/16" depending on what studs are provided.

 

Why don’t you cut the axle flange down, then when you replace the drums you can use them off the shelf… hell, the axle housing and the car make a nice, engine driven lath to do the work… I’ve actually put the back of my car on jack stands, had the wife get in the car and put it in gear while I cut down the center hubs to the size I needed (I have a ’95 rear in my ’97, the ‘97’s used the smaller, vette size rear, most people just hack their wheels, I cut the hubs down instead).

At this point I wish I ordered my Moser with shorter axles… Between ½” and 1” shorter then stock would make everything else easier to get and fit… I thought about it when I was ordering it but decided that “I want the stock wheels to fit…” big mistake… could have just gotten a set of spacers to put the wimpy stock wheels on it and then things like drag wheels/tires would have fit without them.