1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

It's the bolt thru carriers that are the issue with many people TA mounts. That's why I stayed all the same mfg for the rearend to help with those issues.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

STILL haven't got to test out that converter, can't wait to finally fire it up and make some passes off the brake.

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

Let us know when those passes are finished. I just scales mine last weekend. I was wondering why everything I adjust on the suspension isn't working. The weight bias is 1900 front 1540 rear. Seems the stock front brakes, front crash bar and stock seats need to be replaced with light weight versions with lead added into the rear.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Quick Performance http://www.quickperformance.com/Products/housings.htm scroll down to the red f-body housing - don't know if they'll sell the TA mount set-up to you separately.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

my car has an old style moser mount which looks to have been assembled using pieces from a sherman tank. i had to grind the everliving snot out of the center portion so it would clear the moser aluminum center section. works good, but i want to ditch this setup for something lighter.

3rdBird

iTrader: (1)

On the topic of overkill, I would have added a rear cross brace to reinforce the axle tubes. Whats another couple bucks..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

dont ya just want to get rid of that long clunky TQ Arm... nothing feels better when you Do.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i'm not going fast enough to warrant one


seriously

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

VERY VERY NICE! I want one of those so bad I can smell the gear oil from here.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

no...

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

Big and clunky some guys Like them..I dumped mine when the car was weeks old!

ROGUERACER

Super nice car sir-would you mind some details on suspension mods and why you chose the brands you did ? Rear end ? Thank you Robert .

Fermin91rs305

I dont want to jump in but i am in need. I just installed a Moser 9" with 4.11s and 35 spline axles. My problems when installing it was the torque arm holes was off by 1/4 of an inch. I drilled out enough to make it fit also the panhard didnt fit on my rear end we hammered it on there to fit and it fit but ripped off half of one side of the rubber bushing that is on the panhard. My problems now is that the car shakes/vibrates around 40mph-above. Not really when on the gas but when off the pedal. The moser 9" had 4 holes for the lower control arm we put it on the highest one to start. I did try it and a lot of wheelhop so ima change that but you think what can cause my car to vibrate/shake like that.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

may be pinion angle. is your torque arm adjustable?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

Are you using the stock driveshaft? Do you have the correct ujoint for the pinion yoke?

Fermin91rs305

@ Digger i might have to check the pinion angle but i dont know how to so ill take it to my mechanic to do it for me. And no the torque arm is stock i want to try the cheapest things first to try and fix it and then ill start buying things.

@ mw66nova Yes its the stock Driveshaft and i bought mine from Hawks so it had the stock yoke.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

The stock ujoint for our cars is like a 3gr or something. what yoke is on your 9" center? Did the joint fit properly or was it a little sloppy?

Fermin91rs305

it came with the stock 1310 yoke i think it is. But no it was a good fit. I know that the relocation bracket for my lower control arms is put way to high on the bracket and i get wheel hop doing 1/2 throttle on the launch. Do you think it can be because the lower control arms are too low. I am going to go home and change that today and check that everything is tighten 100%.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

no, lca angle wouldn't cause the vibration.

double check the ujoint, the 1310 and 3G joints are not the same, and are not interchangeable...they should have suggested a combination joint, if not included it with the rear.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Here is some pix of mine. The housing is 15yrs old and the aluminum thru bolt center section is 10yrs old? I had mine powdercoated after I welded swaybar mounts on it.
Some tips to keep the center from leaking/seaping oil, I use teflon paste on the studs/ bolts that go in the housing and center chunk.. I had to grind on the center chunk, the tq arm mount plus put 2 thick washers between the tqarm mount and housing.
I have lots of miles on this rear and it has always had a weird vibration. Ive changed bearings gears and all kinds of stuff. Change to stock rear and vibration is gone...
Another thing I dont like with mine is the axle bearings. Since mine is so old it has some goofy Green company ball bearings on the axles that are not cheap or avalible to me local. They go out around 10,000 miles like clockwork.
I am going to buy newer axles so I have the nice timkin stuff.
These guys build over kill also! http://www.midwestchassis.com/products.html
Anyway here is some more car ****..

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I think that is one of the most discouraging things I have ever heard on TGO.

My LS1/T56 swap has about 1500 miles on it (and about 50 1/4 mile passes). Taking it down the strip is a piece of cake (okay, violent), but driving it on the highway is almost intolerable due to the constant rumble. I've adjusted everything I can (pinion angle, panhard bar, engine/trans angle), had a custom driveshaft fabricated by a reputable local shop and had them recheck it for run-out, straightness, and balance, replaced U-joints, etc. I was hoping there was one thing I had overlooked that would finally fix it.

I don't like the torque arm mount, nor having to BFH the floor pan for TA clearance, but that's more from the choice of housing I made than anything else.

This car was supposed to be a fun driver and occasional drag racer. Right now it doesn't do either one very well.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, tell me about it. I drive the car. When motor is together
In the past in 1 year it went to FL, GA 3times, out to bristol tenn and the T/A Nats in ohio.. not to mention all the other local shows.
Im really hoping that when I change the axles for the newer style it will be better but not getting my hopes up..

BlueBeast

Whats up with the gasket, Just got my moser 9 inch and the gasket doesnt fit any way any how no matter which way I flip it or turn it.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

gasket? you mean ultra grey RTV ?? I've never used the center section gasket.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

yup, i use ultra black on mine

BlueBeast

I just got the 40 spline center and axles as well. It does tell you in the instructions that you may have to grind one of the ribs.

BlueBeast

I like how they put the fill plug on the side that the torque arm mounts to so its nearly impossible to fill it while everything is installed. Glad I opted for the fill and drain plugs.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

^^i'm running a stock case, so this may not apply, but my fill drain plug, while on the same side as the torque arm is easily reached with a long extension, and i put fluid in with a transfer pump and a long hose. works great. something to keep in mind, these 9" centers were originally designed to go under full size ford cars and trucks. it's not like they thought back in the 60's, "hey, we should put the fill plug on the other side, since 20 years from now, gm guys may want to put these in a car with a suspension we've never seen" lol.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

My moser has a 1/8 npt for the vent on top of the tube on the drivers side, that`s where I squeeze the honey in at...works good

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i use a lower gearcase fluid pump for outboard boat engines, works great shoving in fluid with the long hose they come with.

gbeaird

iTrader: (1)

TTOP350: what torque arm mount is that? It looks aluminum and looks like it could shave pounds off my Moser 9" by replacing the Moser-provided cast iron T/A mount. Thanks.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

^^looks like my moser iron piece with a coat of "aluminum" paint on it.

gbeaird

iTrader: (1)

Man I hope not. That just adds more weight! It's at the right end of the car, but still....

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

I am using the quick performance piece. My mount is a little different. Working well so far. I do like how it actually is secured in an area that looks like it could be the load path.





Uploaded with ImageShack.us

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Yup its cast iron with eastwoods cast blast paint on it to keep it from rusting. Not aluminum paint.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

What are all of you running LT1 rear brakes on these things doing for parking brake cables?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

89-92 rear disc cars use PBR calipers. Soooo you can use 89-92 Pbrake cables.
I think there are 2 diff lengths.. not sure Y or if true tho.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

what's a parking brake? I have an automatic no need for one.

itsjustabird

iTrader: (1)

Not to get too far off subject.. but I bought a housing from a fellow member that didnt use a torque arm mount and just need to weld on my torque arm mount and not sure which one I want to run. I have the currie mount and not sure I want to grind off as much as it seems to need removed, the moser is still available through them but as Im reading yall seem to have the same complaint. How does the quick performance one hold up? it looks to have better clearance but hows the strength? actuall as a side note just called them and its not available seperately so nvm! lol

Shagwell

side note - the quick performance mount shouldn't be run with any torque arm that has spherical joints at the diff bracket. Having sphericals at both mounting points(ta arm and the housing) will allow the bracket to deflect and will break things.

itsjustabird

iTrader: (1)

Didnt think about that! Does anyone have close up shots of their moser mount with center installed? Maybe how much trimming was required as well?

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

Spohn now offers a Solid rod end just for this and that is what I am using. It has no side to side play. Had to be convinced a little to go intot he Torque arm bracket. I have put about 6000 good hard miles on everything with no issued to report so far.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

no trimming required if you buy all moser pieces. We've done their nodular and aluminum centers with no issues. When people start mixing and matching companies products then you run into problems.

itsjustabird

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! Ill have their mount later this week and put up pics of the finished product!

Shagwell

I noticed the solid ends in your pics, just wanted to point it out for others viewing. - nice looking set-up, btw.

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I went round and round deciding what I wanted to do. I knew I wanted the sliding front link, and spohn had just come out with the stock replacement arm so i thought wht the heck. I was going to get the Moser rearend through Quickperformance since they were close, and they said he we can offer everything they do for 100 less and local support so I said sure. The Yukon center section I had my eye on from the beginning due to weight and strength. Yes there was some trimming involved.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I had to trim my moser aluminum center section and use a few washers to get the moser bracket to fit properly..

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

How long ago was that? I think I started this thread in 2005, and didn't have an issue, and I've ordered probably another 5 of them for people and no issues either with their new design torque arm bracket

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Just found the recipt for my aluminum center and I got it in 2004.
The housing I got many years b4 that...
Not sure Y i have clearance issues but I do. I just ground it up a bit.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

is your torque arm mount constructed of 1" or 3/4" pieces of steel welded together? if so, it may be like mine. my moser 9" was one of the earlier ones they sold back around 1990 or so.