I have a 83 Z28 with a goodwrench 350 voodoo cam, edelbrock performer intake, edelbrock 650 carb, hooker headers, cat delete, and flowmaster exhaust, the suspension is stock and i will be running street tires... what can I expect to run with this setup? I was thinking mid 13's to low 13's... is this accurate???

14.50's-15.50's.

I had a similar setup at one time in my 83 and it ran mid 14's according to the G-tech.

The rest of the driveline will either help or hurt that combo, whats the tranny, stall (if auto) and rearend?

You may be surprised to realize there's more than one voodoo cam, in fact, I think there's 5 or 6 - each one is quite different. Maybe you could tell us exactly WHICH ONE you have?

the cam is the 60106lk .268/.289 the trans is the stock t56 and the rearend is stock... I have a g-tech but I dont think it is very accurate.

Maybe high 13's at best. Try putting in the voodoo cam #60133, now thats a nice size cam.

14's and you better drive it well.

I made sure I kept the lift under .500 cause I am using the stock heads. But this motor will make quite a bit more power than the L69 did and I'm not positive but i guessed that it ran mid to high 14's... I kept up with my friends 02 gti running 16 psi...

Until you fix that, 13's are going to be elusive.

Those are 76cc heads if I'm right and they suck for performance. And the motor only makes what 290hp flywheel. Thats like 240 to the ground if you're lucky. Honestly just spray the motor, it'll take the hit all day.

nitrous would be just taking the easy way out if he wanted to go that route...there are assembled entry level aluminum heads on ebay for about what a well put together nitrous kit would cost with all the safety bells and whistles to go with it. Get a set of those in 64cc chambers and a nice cam matched to the rest of the combo and be on your merry way.

yea, I would rather stay away from nitrous... I am looking into a set of 327 heads right now... those should just bolt on right? they would be a hell of a lot better than the current heads too right? The motor came out of an older vette... I will get the heads looked at by a shop tho before I did anything with them.

Dont waste your time and money buy something newer technology and more performance orientated.

i made 254whp which is like 315 crank and ran 12.90's. stock "230hp" L98 long block with full bolt ons

you can get 13's in that car PROVIDED you use slicks/drag radials, the right gear, with good suspension and drive it HARD lol

That motor has like 8.x to 1 compression so a set of used L98 iron heads with 64 cc and steel shim gasket will bump that up to 9.3 to 1 or so depending on the dish of the pistons in that shortblock. even tho Iron L98's dont flow for crap, they still can get 12 second slips. that bump in compression is what reallly helps

whats the specs on that cam? i can find no 106lk part number...they have up to 105 for hydraulic cams??

So you made that power without heads/cam?? My bad, the part number is 60102lk, you can find it on summt or jegs, the lift is .268/.289 and 262/268 duration.

yep stock L98 iron heads, stock L98 shortblock, stock L98 cam but with 1.6 rockers for more lift.

thats a good cam for that motor. you should be 13's if you get more compression in a 64 cc iron head like a pair of L98 heads or better yet, vortecs with a vortec intake manifold. that be your best bet. on street tires tho your gonna need to drive pretty good

ya, if I had the money I would go vortech, but i'm just gonna have to manage with a different set of heads... idk if the heads I am looking into are L98... are those used on older 327's?

i'm not aware of all the castings used on the small block, especially the early years.... L98 heads were just used on 87-92 L98's. Not many factory iron heads flow that well but will flow enough for your needs and that combo.

mainly you just want something to bump that compression up. an iron 64cc head for sure. could mill it down some. a pair of iron L98's i think are the cheapest, easiest to find. Even a pair of iron 305 heads would work

"327 heads" is pretty much wide open. There were some decent 327 heads, the majority of them are worse than anything put on 3rd gens from the factory and probably worse than your Goodwrench heads. None of them would have the accessory bolt holes on the ends, nor would they be hardened for unleaded fuel unless specifically rebuilt with that in mind.

Pass on "327 heads". Do better. Or do nothing.

where could I get cheap heads that would help performance... The problem is that I dont have a lot of money to work with...

I've been finding World Sportsman II's for cheap everywhere, just look around a bit on forums.

Not sure what the goodwrench short block uses for pistons (stock style 12cc dish?), but basic 305 heads (416, 601 etc) would work great. They're practically free, then just port them up a bit, grind the valves (or put bigger ones in there), and you're set.

I did just that.... 601 heads, no porting, only added 1.94/1.60 valves, screw in studs and guideplates, and had the valve guides machined to handle .550 lift. Made great power with my .490 lift XE274 cam (230/236 duration), and only cost about $500 to get them to that point.

what cc is the 416 head... I have a set off my 305 but the motor blew up a cylinder so I am kind of worried about it... i didnt see anything wrong with them but im still not sure. have u ran the 1/4 or dyno'd it Air_Adam?

It can be done, but be careful with that 5 spd. they like to go boom when they get caught between traction and any kind of power, that's why they never put them behind the 350's from the factory.

I have actually done similar to Aid_adams.
I have 416 heads, but only with 1.94 intake valves, still the stock 1.5 exhausts. Just new springs on it, a valve job, and valve guides and seals. I think it cost me around $400 all in.

416's sport a 58cc chamber. That's good if you have 12cc dished pistons, but if you have flat tops, then the CR is too high. I ported the chambers of mine and they ended up around 64cc's.

If the cylinders look fine, they probably are. You can have them magnafluxed for about $40, and decked for another $100 or so.

what actually is magnafluxed?? would decking it be to add compression or to just ensure a good finish... if i use those heads i need new springs put on them from the cam kit and probably get a 3 angle valve job... with getting it decked, magnafluxed, springs installed and the valve job how much should i be looking at?? would it be worth larger valves too??

I meant to say if the "chambers" look fine, then they probably are.

Magnafluxed means to check for cracks with a magnetic powder and a magnet.
Decking can add compression if you do a lot of it, or just to ensure a good finish. You would just want to do it a tad, just to ensure it's flat.

Valves = $80 for a set of intake or exhaust
Cut seats = $120 or so.
Cut for larger valves, ~$80 for a set
deck = $60
mag = $40
hot tank =$40

Under $500 i'd say. I had 1.94" valves laying around from a scrap set of 993 heads, I used those. I chucked them up in a drill press and added a chamfer to the face by hand, and radiused the back on the exhaust by hand. I paid $320 or so for a "head reconditioning package" from my machine shop, which included hot tank, mag, deck for flatness, valve job, valve guides, and install springs and balance them. Then I paid an extra $80 to cut for the bigger valves. Throw in $80 or something for valve seals and $80 for springs and I paid just over $500 IIRC. I got ripped off on the seals, but the rest was fair game.

how much would larger valves do, would it be worth it? I will be running a .489 lift cam so is it the guides that might have to be ground for clearence if at all??

vortec...end budget discussion here

I wish i could but i just simply cannot afford it...

you can't afford 500 bux for a pair of brand new cylinder heads? you my friend have chosen the WRONG hobby...i'd like to see you "freshen up" some older castings and see how much it winds up costing you. Then ontop of it i'd like to compare flow charts

not tryin 2 be a d*ck but it really won't get any cheaper than that

I just checked summit for them and they are 300 each then i gotta buy the manifold... i was just seein how much it would be to get heads i already have to work out well...

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...49896_-1_10187

280 from jegs

so 540 instead of 5 excuse me, i could have sworn they were 250 a peice

what intake manifold are you running now? they're really not too hard to find on ebay or craigs list or swap meets.

http://www.sdparts.com/product/12558...Assembled.aspx

270 through them...might or might not be cheaper with shipping

i've got the edelbrock performer... the vortecs will still do well carb'd right? they arent lk specifically make for tpi...?

they'll do fine kido

have you purchased that cam already?

Doesn't matter what manifold he has now, he'll have to get a Vortec-specific intake, and self-aligning rockers to use Vortec heads.

If you have good LG4 heads now, that's what you should be working with. The dish in the Goodwrench pistons is deeper than the valve reliefs, if that gives you any clue. I wouldn't shave the heads, and even with 1.84" valve, the 416 heads will be a nice improvement. New valve springs & retainers should be considered a must with an upgrade cam, though. At .489" lift, you might have to cut the guides as well (perfect time for positive-type valve stem seals).

Stock unmodified Vortecs most likely won't handle .489" lift.

do what you can to get your speed fix now but take it from me, this speed and performance sh*t is ADDICTIVE. Spend a lot of time and money porting out big holes in junk heads and all the rest of crap that goes with it and at the end of the day you get a high 13-mid 14sec. car if you're lucky...if you're content with that fine but if you're like the majority of us on this board, you won't and then you'll find yourself thinking about a decent set of heads, nice cam etc., but the problem is at that point you've already tied up your small budget in junk already, so back to square one...ask me how I know.

yea i have the cam... a note says max lift is .475, but thats b/c of the springs right? I will be replacing those anyways so it shouldnt matter right?

i realize it doesn't matter which manifold he has now, but if he had a super victor, i was going to refer him to getting a dual plane in vortec trim .
Even tho the heads CAN be modified to accept a standard intake manifold...still not worth the trouble. Sell the old one buy a new one.

I was getting to the cam...

yea i wouldnt plan on shaving them at all unless it was just to square them...I have the springs but I would have to get retainers also if i went with the 416's? they are actually L69's too cause its the H.O. idk if that makes any difference... what is a positive type valve seal? how much do those run?

and that's was up

not necessarily...it's gonna boil down to you measureing everything out, make sure the retainer isn't gonna crash into the seal/guide. Making sure the installed height is right for your new springs, check coil bind...blah blah blah blah. Lot of measuring. I guess it's worth giving a shot, one of those things where you wish you waited to buy your cam until you knew what hte rest of your set up was going to consist of. And if you do decide to stick with that cam, make sure you get the springs recommended by lunati for that stick
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oh and i did check that cam card out for you and it is measure with a 1.5 ratio rocker so we cant go to a lower ratio to lower the lift amount

I do realize that the 416's wont be as good as the vortec but they certainly wont be as bad as the truck heads that are on it now... and the cam is a good cam, so if i can spend little money to get quite a bit more power out of the 416's, it makes me want to do it, and of coarse i want to go with the vortec's too, but the money is the issue... will anything have to be done to the vortec's besides springs to accomodate the cam?

The stock springs have rotators on the exhaust valves - heavy things that serve no practical purpose. You could get by with just 8 retainers, but might as well get them all while you're at it.

A "positive" type valve seal fit over the top of the guide and wipes the valve stem. The factory method is to put an o-ring between the retainer and keepers to slow down oil dripping down the stem, along with a "shield" over the top of the spring to divert oil before it gets close to the guide/stem. Not very effective. You need to clean up and size the top of the as-cast guide to let these seals fit, which operation also increases the valve travel range while you're at it.

ya i got the recommended springs... the 416's use 1.5 rockers right... so the lift will be the same?

maybe...i'd even say probably, as in cutting the guides down...you might be able to get away with it tho only way to find out is to measure.

Can you return it? I still think thta's a better option.
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only things that effect lift are the cam and rocker ratio

so is the "shield" the same as the umberella?
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only things that effect lift are the cam and rocker ratio[/quote]

ya i no but is the 416's rocker 1.5"?