With my combo I would think i'd easily be able to run 8s but i pulled a 9.06 today with street tires smoking down the track. I will be getting some street slicks pretty soon. How are the nitto's for the street and the strip?? I'm thinking maybe an adjustable torque arm too and changing my muffler. Here's my setup:

350 chevy small block punched out 30 over
-Speed Pro Flat Top Pistons, GM PM rods, LT1 pushrods and lifters, LT4 HOT CAM, Edelbrock Double Roller timing chain, Fel-pro gaskets. LS Racing chip. Ac Delco PF1218 oil filters and GTX 10w40 always, NGK Tr55 spark plugs.
-Holley Steath Ram Intake 24# injectors, AFPR, 58mm TB
-Modified Vortec heads 1.6 roller rockers
-SLP headers and DEI header wrap and sealant
-3" catless flowmaster exhaust
-B&M megashifter
-MSD coil, and 8.5mm wires
-Built 700r4 and Edge racing 3000 stall converter
-K&N air filters and ram air mod




Running 7* base timing and 48psi fuel pressure

 

1/4 mile racing, around 1000 HP but you mean 1/8 mile racing.

Just from your first sentence, the first thing anyone will suggest is some proper tires. Get some slicks and stop spinning.

 

I'm definetly going to be getting some street slicks soon. Have you had any experience with the nitto's?? They say they will last like 15,000 miles and hook on the track, sounds pretty good to me. But my motor should be producing about 375-400hp from what i've read that the HSR/VORTEC/LT4 is a proven power combo, just doesn't seem like its producing that power level. Do you know what these cars run stock in the 1/8th? The only track here is an 1/8th mile, lancaster raceway park

 

i have experience with the nitto's...they blow big fat donkey *****. wouldn't hook on the track, definitely not on the street, and didn't last as long as advertised...all around a crappy tire. if you're set on a set of drag radials, check out mickey thompsons tire. much less tire life than anything else, but jebus, they hook hard. get a set of dedicated wheels for them and only run them before you go to the track, and take them back off when you're done.

 

what about the indy profiles for street/strip use?? I guess i'll have to find another set of iroc rims for the mickey's then. How long do they last?? I would be able to drive them to and from the track right?

 

I am having good luck out of the Hoosier QTP's. They really hook at the track and perform well on the street. You just dont want to get caught out in a rain storm.

 

I just looked they don't come in my size. M/T vs BFG DR's??? BFG's would be about 50 bucks cheaper. I think that should get me in the 8s no problem, but I want low 8s. Any suggestions on a muffler?? The flowmaster seems too restrictive/crappy sounding. I

 

magnaflow makes a very nice quality muffler. and it's a proven hp maker over the blowmaster. five7kid picked up like 2-3 tenths i think. i just put one on my firebird daily driver, very quiet and calm and idle, but really lets ya know it's there at WOT. exactly what i wanted for that car.

the mickey's are more because they work better. i've had all three of them now. you will find you have NO problems driving to and from the racetrack with them on.

 

i had a setup similar to yours with 3.73 gears and hedman shorties...i was running 8.20 at about 82 mph....it ran 8.8 with open 3.42's stock slipping trans and street tires.

this one had a performer RPM and an edelbrock 750=junk. what's your 60 ft like? driver mod will be easiest/cheapest way to 8's. more info like 60ft and mph will help

 

i want to say it was like 80 mph but I don't remember. This was just on a 5 dollar run what you brung night no timeslips, I don't even know if they have 60fts. I only ran once, but I had ran twice before with a 9.8 with the timing way way off. I'm sure i could get into the 8s easily with more practice, I forgot to leave on the last yellow and went on the green and sticky tires will lower thet 60s considerably. I want to get into the low 8s though, which I think equals high 12s. Basically I want to break into the 12s but we only have an 1/8th mile here

 

you need fairly low 8s to make it to 12s in the quarter, but even street tires you should be able to pull like a 2.0 60ft. just have to roll into the gas, the accelerator pedal isn't an on/off switch. sticky tires would help. what gears do you have?

 

I tried rolling into the gas and that made the car run even slower, in 1st gear its going to spin no matter what you do. What I did was hold the rpms to 2grand punched it to about 3/4 throttle then floored it, let off floored it some more and then decided ill just shift. My *** swung out but I quickly gained control after the 1-2 shift

3.27's in the rear

 

... but how do you really feel about them though?

 

yeah nittos are just a softer street tire, not a true drag radial like BFG or MickeyTHompsons
I'd get the ET street radials. They hook good

For what its worth, my bridgestone potenza re050A's in 295/30/19 hook pretty good on the street For a street tire. Not quite as good as a ET street but its doing well considering the 383's power

but for track, get a drag radial

 

None of the DOT slicks are designed to be run on the street. They have a DOT rating only for cars that race in a class that demands a DOT tire. Running a DOT slick on the street wears and dries them out making them poor at the track. Life expectancy is low for all DOT slicks. Usually if you can get 5000 miles out of them, you're doing real good. Want to replace tires every oil change or 2? That gets expensive. Buy a second set of rims and mount slicks on them just for track use.

 

yeah but i wanted to be able to change tires at home or work then drive to the track on them

 

thats what i do with my ET streets... i drive 25 min to my track tho, its pretty close to me

 

yeah same here about 25 minutes

 

okay new fuel filter, better gas, and msd coil and better RT shaved .06 off my time. Also re-set timing to 6*. Still can't break into the 8s. Looks like I have to rip the fuel injection and go carb, and get some sticky tires cos they were smokin!

 

2 tenths, going from 80 series to 3" in/out Magnaflow. Love the sound.

What size are you looking for that wasn't available in QTP DOT?

If you aren't hooking, you aren't going to do any better with more power.

 

Dont go messing with the motor untill you get tires!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Trust us!!

Try www.harlowracing.com for tires. They can hook you up.

 

yeah, seriously, no sense in making more power if you can't get what you have to the ground. besides, last i checked, tires are cheaper than a tpi-carb conversion.

 

I'd have to find some rims for the tires or else i would have had them already. I know some sticky tires will put me into the 8s, but I want to go low 8s, regardless I need more power, everyone and their brother is telling me to go carb. I figure carb swap+new exhaust+sticky tires= low 8s

 

What was you 60ft times on that run? Are you running LCA relocation brackets?

Also, how much does the car weigh? What rpm are you shifting? Are you running a front swaybar?

 

dont know 60ft, it probably sucked because of the tire spin and letting off then just shifting for the sake of tire spin. I got off the line good though, i shifted 5500 1-2 then 6k 2-3 almost made it down without shifting. Don't know how much the car weighs, probably slightly lighter than stock. It has front sway bar and stock lca's

 

You need to get a timeslip with the 60ft so we can compare.

Run by the DOT scales or a quary and get your car weighed. This helps in figuring out HP. Get some sticky tires and LCA relocation brackets. This will help with you 60ft times. Also you can unbolt your front swaybar at the track. This will help front lift and transfer the weight to the back.

I am running ported afr190's, stock L98 block, pistons and rods. Comp xe282hr cam, RPM airgap intake, Holley 750 Street HP carb, TH350 trans with a jegs 3500 converter. 3.73 gears and 26" tall Hoosier QTP's. Also LCA relocation brackets with stock LCA's. I removed the front swaybar and running skinnies up front. The exhaust is Hedman LT's with dual 2.5 pipes and dynomax bullets.

Car and driver weighs in around 3350 lbs.
My times are in my sig.

 

well i think thats exactly why i have to rip off my fuel injection, you're running 7.7s and i can't even break 9s. 750+performer intake im going to put it on next week and i got a buddy with his own racing shop that said he'd set up my timing cure and carburetor. theres about 3 scrapyards 2 minutes from my house so ill stop and get my car weighed

 

if you're going to go carb, don't put a performer on the car, put at LEAST a performer RPM or holley street dominator p/n 300-36. the performer is basically a stock replacement manifold.

 

how can i tell if its a rpm or not

 

I really like my RPM aigap. It has great bottom and top end. I am putting a 1/2in 4 hole spacer that I just go to keep the carb cooler. It should help the carb signal also.

If you go carb, you will need a bypass fuel regulator also. I am running a MSD Probillit dist without vaccum advance, but I dont drive on the street much.

On the intake, check the part# to see which intake your friend is selling.

 

performer rpm
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku

performer http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku

performer RPM airgap http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku

The rpm versions have a rpm range of 1500-6500
The regular performer version has a range of idle-5500.

 

[QUOTE=bluegrassz;3841915]I really like my RPM aigap. It has great bottom and top end. I am putting a 1/2in 4 hole spacer that I just go to keep the carb cooler. It should help the carb signal also.


QUOTE]

Let us know how your spacer works. We've tried 3 different styles, open 1", 4 hole 1" and a combo type and the results have been terrible. It seems the Air Gap dosen't like them.
Those were our results. I'd like to hear yours.

 

It's cast right on the intake itself.

 

its just a regular performer he's got. now im gonna have to spend 200 bucks on an intake this swaps gonna wind up costing my like 800 bucks in the end probably but my buddy thinks it should run 8.3s with the swap

 

ebay search holley street dominator p/n 300-36. that's what i've been running on my 305 and what my dad has on his 350. both are in the 7.5-7.7 range in the 1/8th.

 

i got some used et streets off a buddy today they are 26x11.50, will those fit or are they too wide?? I just need to find some rims for them 15x8 work??

 

[QUOTE=skinny z;3841976]I will let you know how it works out. I just got done fitting it to the car. Looks like it will be a close fit even with a dropbase and 2" filter. I need longer carb studs and a 4-hole gasket and I can finish it up.

I am hopeing that the 1/2 in wont really change the car. I was just wanting it to reduce the heat on the carb. If it doesnt work, I will just go with a heat shield or a thick gasket.
----------

I think those will be to big for 15x8 rim. You might get by with a 15x10 rim and a big hammer inside the quarter.

 

How far are you from NYIRP? I go down there fairly often.

I was going 8.5 at 85 in the 1/8 and 13.0 at 108 in the 1/4 for referance.

 

i dont know im guessing far because ive never been there i live in buffalo and i go to lancaster (now called dunn tire raceway park) alot

 

Here's directions from buffalo

 

broke into the 8s tonight ran an 8.9 only one pass on shitty track conditions I gotta recheck my timing and my carb needs tuning definetly. I added new magnaflow exhaust and BFG drag radials even though they spun. When I set the timing and fix my launch 8.7 should be possible. I really think something is holding this motor back or something is wrong, I should be putting out a lot more horsepower with my combo

 

What was your 60ft times?
Timing set at ?
Shift points?

Can you post the entire times/mph from you timeslip?

 

If you have the stealth ram and vortecs there is no reason to rip it off for a carb. Just like a carb, it needs to be tuned. (fuel and timing maps)

I recomend 4.10 gears. You're running 1/8 mile. Lets get serious here.
See all the cars popping wheelies at Lancaster, simple leverage. (gears and traction) I'm suprised they let you in the gate there with 3.27 gears!
4.10's will still allow very reasonable hiway rpm in OD (2.87:1 effective)
Even 4.56's is not too much for that motor (3.192:1 IN OD)
get some ET streets or Hoosier QTP's and some Air lift air bags for the back. (makes a big big difference.)
Your combo is easily capable of mid 12's (high 7's 1/8th)
The stealth ram manifold and hot cam combo need gears to work best.
3000 to 6000+rpm range. With 3.27 gears you are not even close.
You'll want to install a driveshaft safety loop too.
bring 'er over to the "C" side and run quarter mile at http://www.torontomotorsportspark.com Its about 1 hour from Buffalo.

www.airliftcompany.com
http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/

 

no timeslips i just paid 5 bucks to go down the track once i should really go to test and tune night and pay the 20 bucks and get real slips and make more runs. Timing was within 2* 34* total, I had it set to 35* and then one day it was hard to start so i think it might have moved so i turned it back a little bit. I will reset it with the light today. I ran 22 psi in the bfg's and it was a first run on them.

Motor combo as of now is:
Holley 3310 750VS carb (72 jets, purple spring)
Eldebrock performer rpm intake
lt4 hot cam
vortec heads
355

Shift points: it was dark i couldn't really see the tach but about 6k
I guess I could put 4.10s in it but i wouldn't go any higher than that i hear the 3.73s are just about perfect for street and strip car. How much time are we looking at shaving off from a gear swap? How hard is it to do a gear swap I never done one before but i could tackle it if i knew how

 

I agree partially with the gears thing, but i'd only go to a 3.73 ESPECIALLY since you already have traction issues. the 4.10 gears give you a really extreme 1st gear (close to running a 5 something in a TH350) and thats gonna make first gear really unruly. 3.73 will wake it up a lot. they made my friend's car a lot more fun than even the 3.42's we had in it, and didn't notice a difference in gas mileage either. what do you have for a stall? am i just reading over that? a GOOD 3000 stall will make it a blast to drive and sometimes can be up to .5 your times. BFG's always worked for me, not much burnout just enough to clean them off, then they would go to work

 

alot of the guys that i talk to said the same thing about 373's theyre just about perfect for the 700r. But I might put a 350 in because my buddy says the 700r is no good for drag racing. Its an EDGE 3000 stall and they are supposed to be some of the best stalls around.

 

i only made 1 pass so who knows what else is in it with just driving. I also want to try a 750 eldebrock carb that my buddy owes me

 

Don;t be a wimp 3.73's is a girly-man gear. 4.10's is not too much trust me.
I had 4.10's and a 700r4 and a similar cammed vortec 350.
4.10's is just right. When you get the tires and air bags it will bite and launch.
easy hyway cruising in OD.

I swapped to a th350 +10" 3600 stall when the th700 gave up the ghost.
Sooner or later your th700 will come unglued too.
When it does go see Carl at Competition Transmission in North Tonawanda.
www.competitiontransmission.com he will set you up with a good th350 and the right torque converter. He's one of the best.

If yu want to run at Lancaster, get the 4.10's minimum.

 

I don't even know if i can fit 4.10s in a 9 bolt I think they only make 37xs for it. 4.10s would be good with the 350 but it seems like itd make for a completely useless 1st gear on a 700r (which is already completely useless almost). Looks like I would do the gear swap and the tranny swap together. My buddies got a full manual valve body 350 i can have for cheap.

 

I guess you're right. No 4.10's for the 9 bolt.
An alternative would be 3.73's anda 2.75 first gear kit for the th350.