Im thinking about getting a set of drag radials to cure a little traction issue i now have after the lt1 swap,so i was wondering if i could get some pointers as to what dr's would be the best for under $400 a set?and what else could i do to get er to hook better?thanks in advance,joe

 

I'd say M/T E/T street radials are pretty much THE tire to use. I would highly suggest against street driving with them though because they will be out of tread quickly. I have to get a new set every year just from drag racing on the weekends. I'm not sure the size you'd want by how tall,wide, or rim size, but the usuals are 275/50/15 or 255/50/16 depending on your wheels.

 

I have had decent luck with the Nitto 555r's. Its no slick...but better than most radials.

Lower control arm relocation brackets will help a lot also. If you notice the rear end jumping around when taking off....air bags are a cheap fix.

 

are you talking about the nitto drag radials? if so, that is the worst drag radials i have used by far. i owned a pair of them long enough to go to the track twice and then i sold them. HORRIBLE. but, if you have an auto car that doesnt shock the tires too bad you may be able to get them to work after a 20 minute long burnout.

 

I know what you mean about them not being the best. However, when I had the 305 in my car, they worked just fine.

From the signiture above though, I don't think he is putting a stupid amount of power to the wheels.

What I liked about the Nittos was that they lasted a lot longer than the BF goodrich's

 

Just my $0.10 worth... my 91' when nearly stock spun hard on 275/50-15 nittos, yet it dead hooked on worn out BFG 255/50-16 drag radials. By far the best drag radial I have used to date is the Mickey Thompsons. I daily drive on them and run 10's at the track with my 4th Gen. Will they wear out faster, yup... but most people don't have them as their primary tires like myself. Anything less on my 2000 is pure suicide.

As mentioned above, I would pair up the drag radials with a set of LCA's and relo brackets. The car should leave pretty good once you get the proper burn out technique and tire pressure figured out.

 

I cut 1.66-1.69 60's all night long with a manual trans and 17" wheels on nitto drag radials. I know for sure that the BFG's hook harder, but that comes at the cost of less mileage. I never got to run the BFG's after I got the car sorted out, but they had previously been around a .03-.06 better. - Very little burn-out on either. Drive around water, back rear tires in, pull out to edge, set line-lock, dump clutch, shift 1-2-3-4(I don't need no stinkin clutch), roll out and stop just before line.

in order of traction;
M/T - Hoosier (50/50 depending on tire size)
BFG
Nitto

flip that order backwards and you have life expectancy/driveability(especially if wet roads)

 

you seriously do that? lol! why not just start out in 4th gear?
i always do 2nd gear burnouts in manual cars.

 

I think im gonna pick up a set of slicks for 14 or 15 inch rims to throw on for the track, how wide can i go with the tires?

 

or how how would these do on the stock iroc wheels as far as fitment and performance? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

i'd go with those ET streets on stock rims and run them around 16psi and you'll be fine.

 

are those et streets i posted in the link the correct size?

 

those are fine for your power levels

 

Good choice, in my opinion the MT drag radial is the best DR out, but not nearly as forgiving as the ET Street. You can get a good amount of miles out of et streets also - but DO NOT do a burnout on the street, the rough surface kills them.. Drive easy to and from and you will get good life out of.