I am about to buy an '87 IROC with a bad motor. I have a stout 350 with older 'double hump' 186 heads and custom ground roller cam/rockers, forged 10:1 pistons, etc in my garage. I'm going to put it in the IROC. I have several questions and would appreciate all the help I can get:
1) Will the (basically stock) 700R4 (shift kit, 2600 stall, rebuilt 8k miles ago, B&M Megashifter) handle the approximately 400 hp my engine produces?
2) I found a post about running a carb on a tpi car, so I think that answers those questions.
3) The car will come with TES headers. I heard these will work on my older (iron) heads. True?
4) Car has a cat and 3" cat-back. I'd like to get an off-road Y pipe to replace cat portion. Any exist? Any used for sale?
5) I drive a 98 Formula LS1 with NOS and other goodies. I am running an exhaust cutout (helps when on the bottle). Anyone doing this on 3rd Gens?
6) Car has 3.27 rear (supposedly Borg Warner). Should I go with better posi and 4.11 gears?
NOTE: I don't care about emissions or street driveability or mileage. Car will be primarily drag, with occassional (OK frequent) street action, but not a daily driver.
7) Would a fiberglass hood save a lot of weight? What do they cost? Any available used?
8) Is 90/10 front shocks, remove front sway, move battery to back, replace LCAs, install SFCs about all I need to do to hook well with Nitto Drag radials? What other drag-specific (yet cost efficient) suspension mods should I make?
9) Besides removing AC, front sway bar, running front skinnies . . . any other reasonable-cost weight saving tips? Would removing most of interior save much weight? Is there ant fiberglass/lexan-windowed rear decks available?
10) I do not have a carb or distributor for my engine right now. I'm not that skilled at carb adjustments, nor distributor advance adjustments. What carb would you recommend? Can I buy a pre-custom-curved distributor (I can provide cams specs, car weight, trans type, gearing, etc.)?
11) What should I know about this swap? (i.e. motor mounts? will 700R4 just bolt up? Any clearance issues? Any electrical issues? Will I need to remove in-tank elec. fuel pump and install a new pickup and external electric pump? Any prticular vacuum concerns?, etc.)
I know this is a bunch of questions that have probably been asked and answered a hundred times somewhere on this board, but I am hoping someone here has the time, knowledge and paticience to help a new guy out!

My sons and I have had/raced: a 455 (Olds) powered (500 hp) '80 Trans Am; a VERY stout, highly modified 5.0 '92 Mustang GT; a 95 LT1 powered Z28 (for about a month before totalling that one); a '72 Nova (with the above-mentioned engine in it); and my '98 Formula LS1 with NOS . . . But we're new to 3rd Gens and could use some advice.

Thanks in advance!!!!! - Leo


[This message has been edited by Leo (edited March 14, 2001).]

 

Leo
Let me Try to answer some of your ?'s.

1. Yes the 700 will live behind that motor. The ? is how long, It would depend on the rebuild. Since this is mostly a drag car then I would say put TH350 in it, You lose OD but it will live longer and be faster at the track. All you need is a kit from summit or jegs and a drive shaft out of TH200 car all 82's and a few 83's.
3. ? I don't know.
6. The BW rear is the better of the 2 rears but the gears are pretty expensive for them. Someone else should be able to give you the costs for the gears. I have 4.11's in my car and I love them.
7. Fiberglass hoods are around buy not a whole lot of people have them for some reason. Mines still steel, With a fiderglass cowl.
8. I would add 50/50 rear shocks and air bags to the rear springs. And if you have the $ the a Spohn Adjutable TQ arm.
9. I didn't lighten my car at all it weighs 3175 with me in it and a half a tank of gas. The Irocs weighed more from the factory, I.E newer car more options. The only option mine had was a radio, and 4 cyls.
10. Holleys are always good choices, Fairly easy to tune, I just bought a speed demon for my 408, I wont have anything else now on my bird. It seem a whole lot more responsive them the holley I took off.
Distridutors, I am running a Mallory Unilite, But I would have to suggest something aftermarket, and a controller MSD Crane, ESC.
11. The hood will be big clearance issue, If you want the stock hood the a low rise intake, The holley street dominator I am usingwon't clear the hood. The FP will hve to be changed or atlest regulated down to carb pressures. Put Energy Suspension Motor mounts, tranny mounts, Secondary crossmember mounts(if you have them).
Later
JOhn



------------------
82 Firebird,408,Dart Iron Eagle 215's,Cam 229/239, .498/.520,TH350 Tranny, 750 Speed Demon carb, Hooker Headers(I.E. POS) Manual steering, Also a cowl for the big hole in the hood.
Shooting for low 12's.
Check out my birds new home.

 

Not much more to add to that list. You can check out my race car page on all the things I did to my car to make it into a race car.

Some of the more specific questions should be asked on the appropriate boards. Exhaust, carbs, suspension etc.

I'm going to leave this message open since there are so many questions being asked and I'm sure a few members will have comments.

#6 My best times (below) were with a 9 bolt 3.27 gear diff and 26" tall tires.

#9 A complete lexan kit for all the windows including the rear is around $800.

------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
461 Big Block installed and ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley


[This message has been edited by Stephen 87 IROC (edited March 14, 2001).]

 

Thanks, Spud & Stephen! I have a pretty good idea now about what I want to do, in what sequence, and the budget for each 'phase' of my project. This will be my first hot rod (of MANY) that won't have to also serve as a daily driver. That makes things a whole lot easier. My sons and I should acquire the car soon and begin working on it. I have to compliment this site on it's technical quality as well as the calibre of people it attracts. I frequent the LS1.com site because of my 98 Formula (UserName there is also Leo and my mods can be seen on my signature there). The Internet is the hot rodder's greatest tool yet. Where else can one tap into the collective intelligence and experience of such a great community of folks with a common interest and willingness to share? Is this a great country or what? - Thanks again! - Leo

 

Alright Leo You posted this ? in too many places. Moderators sorry about the other post.

The one thing I forgot was install a manual steering box out of an s10. I know Me, steven and crazyinc, are running these boxes. It is a direct swap for the power box. With skinnies you won't know its a manual box except slow speed turns, or parallel parking. The pluses you lose 20 lbs off the nose and gain the HP the power steering uses.
Later
John

------------------
82 Firebird,408,Dart Iron Eagle 215's,Cam 229/239, .498/.520,TH350 Tranny, 750 Speed Demon carb, Hooker Headers(I.E. POS) Manual steering, Also a cowl for the big hole in the hood.
Shooting for low 12's.
Check out my birds new home.