11:1 compression 383, comp cams 503 cam, AFR 195's. Should put me just shy of 500 CHP. 2500 rpm stall converter in my 700r4. 3.23 gears in the factory 10 bolt and street tires. All on a track that's notorious for being slippery.

What do you guys think I'll run? I'm taking her to Rock Falls in Eau Claire WI on April 7.

 

mid/upper 12's. just not enough converter/gear/tire to get it moving down the track much faster. i also think it's more like a 425-450 fwhp engine, i think 500fwhp is a little unrealistic honestly. what intake?

i do, however, believe with a good tune, that a 110+mph trap speed is possible, given you don't weigh more than about 3500lbs

 

That's optimistic as far as I'm concerned!

I'm running a Victor E (victor jr) single plane. Also have 1.6 rockers to get a little more out of the cam.

 

Sweet setup for the motor and tranny. I am assuming you have POSI for the rear end. If you don't, don't even bother running.
You also need your suspension, chassis, and brakes dialed in. If you still have any of the stock junk, you need to upgrade it. Even a stock motor will go lots faster with a decent suspension.

 

Transmissions not that sweet. Needs more stall. This thing was meant to be a street car, but I think I got bit by something!

Suspension is Lakewood 90/10's up front, stock rear for now. Not gonna get a whole lot done on that in 2 weeks! The brakes work, what more do they need to do?

Yes rear is posi, however it is a 10 bolt. No sticky tires for me til I get a 9in.

 

Just like nw66nova stated, you will need at least 3000 stall and 3.73 because of the single plane intake and with that cam you'll need it to get out of the hole. But it should trap 108-110 mph or faster. Who knows? Just let the track tell the story.

 

Make sure to post the results!

I had roughly the same combo, 383 with 10.9 comp, with a LT1 intake and afr195's, but drag radials and a 3.73 with a 3500 stall. Did a 12@110 with 377rwhp.

Good luck!

 

Hey zz17 what kind of numbers are you turning with your setup in your sig?(HP or track) On and off nitrous if you don't mind me asking....

 

You're e.t. is going to be limited by your tires and gearing. But rolling into the throttle should yield a respectable 60'. Mid 12's at 110-112. Keep us posted on what it does.

 

GTA Matt, your sig pic looks like what I wanna get my car to in the near future! Whats it take to get there? I'm guessing my engines close. 9in, good rear suspension setup, and some extra stall? If you don't mind sharing more about your combo.

 

Actually when that pic was taken it still had the stock tpi intake with afr heads and comp 276 cam. Cheapo b&m 2200 converter and 7.5 rear lol. The big optima battery was still up in the left front at that time as well. I wouldn't recommend trying to duplicate it with a 7.5 unless you have stock in richmond gear.

 

Lol the 503 cam is a 276 grind. So you're saying all I need to pull the wheels is what's planned for my 9" swap? Sweet!

 

Well it took slicks, 4.10's, and alot of suspension work to get there lol

full pic, sept. 08




This one was taken at the exact moment the rear end was locking up. Didn't end well lol. Had the miniram and AI cam in it at that time.

 

What is your suspension setup? I went with cheapie Lakewood struts up front in case they made street driving too terrible, but so far no problems. I wouldn't be opposed to putting a little more cash into good drag struts.

When the 9" goes in I'll have somebody do the math on the geometry for me and build my suspension mounts accordingly. I might end up with a narrower rear as well and possibly mini tubs if I can't make enough room with a BFH. I'll also likely inboard the LCA's slightly if needed, and of course upgrade to tubular links with good rod ends. Torque arm will also be custom for the 9", and crossmember mounted too. I don't quite know if I want to go to 4.10's, but definitely 3.73 or a little lower (numerically higher).

 

I have lakewood 90/10's in the front with Spohn's coil over conversion on them. QA1 150 or 200 lb spring (I forget which one, Spohns "drag" spring), Spohn k-member and lower control arms. Spohn tq arm, spohn lca's and relocation brackets. Stock springs and shocks in the rear. They need to go. Getting alot of rebound after the initial hit. Going with an adjustable drag shock and coilover setup.

There's nothing "special" you need when putting in a 9". Moser and strange, as well as many other places offer bolt in setups with lca brackets and tq arm mount ready to go. Theres not much narrowing you can do before you need modified lca's to clear the tire. A 28-10.5 fits fine, no cutting or rubbing, just roll the inner fender lip.

Your gear ratio depends on what size tire you're going to run. With your setup and 26's, I'd go with a 3.73. With a 28, I'd go 4.10's. I'm crossing the stripe at 114-116 right at 6000 rpm. I'd imagine once you are dialed in, you will be right there as well. I have 28's and 4.10's. I also have a better converter in it now. a vigilante "supposed to be" 3300. Only footbrakes to 1800.

You should have a solid mid-high 11 combo when you get it all sorted out. I didn't see what intake you had tho???

 

I can source a fab 9 and a detroit locker center section a lot cheaper than moser can apparently. I will be building my own. Also, I'm not too fond of the designs that try to work around a factory torque arm on the 9" chunk. I'll make my own torque arm too. While I'm going through that much effort, it's not a whole lot more work to relocate the LCAs either!

It's still a pretty ambitious plan for me moneywise, but I think I can swing it for next winters wrenching season.

I'm running an Edelbrock Victor E single plane.

 

i don't know if it's in your plans ever, but if you ever plan to do any stock suspension class racing, they will not like your relocated lca's, even if it's just to the inside of the bracket. if you never plan to class race the car, then no biggie. i plan to one day, so i'm running offset lca's instead of relocating them.

 

I have yet to run the car with the new converter and NANO, but when I had that ATI 3500 stall the quickest I ran was 11.37@ 120mph NA and 10.54@ 130mph hitting the spray in 2nd gear 150 shot.

Should have new numbers this Friday night if the weather holds out.

 

I was just flipping through an afco catalog. I don't think they'd like coil overs either! I'm not too worried about building my car to fit in any particular class.

 

normally OK with coil overs...it's when you start moving the linking bars they have a hard time. if you do your moving in such a way that you can go back, it's also no big deal.

 

Ran a best of 12.76 at 109. 2.05 60'. Need traction!

 

What the heck does fwhp mean?

 

Only thing that comes to my mind is a damn honda talking about Front Wheel Horse Power FWHP

 

Same as CHP. Think on it a little while longer. You'll figure it out.

 

How do you get Crank horse power out of FWHP? RWHP means Rear wheel horse power. So what does FWHP mean?

 

Flywheel horsepower

 

Ahh, Sorry guys, I am used to being around the import crowd and they deamed FWHP as Front wheel horsepower. I get it now. FLYWHEEL horsepower. Sorry, Never heard it called that before.

Anyways, Carry on back on topic.

 

Haha, I called it almost exactly!

 

I broke 110 mph once, and oddly it's because I spun all the way through first getting my worst 60' and ET of the day.

Anything simple I could do to help my cause for this season? The 9" will be going in this winter, so maybe LCARBs? Don't wanna get too crazy expensive for something that will probably end up being temporary.

Oh, and NO drag radials. This my summer toy, not really a drag car, so I don't wanna break it before the fall. Maybe I'll throw DR's on for the last event of the season.

 

You can always do a few of the old school tricks. Relocate battery to the trunk. Do some weight reduction. Suspension mods are always good.

Really though better tires would help alot. If you threw drag radials on and didn't Launch extremely hard you would be fine.

No matter what you do to the suspension or whether it be tires, If you hook you have the chance of breaking something.

 

Im jelous.

 

You got the mph for a low 12!

 

you will be better off dead hooking with a drag radial than to shock the rearend over and over again with wheel hop/spin.

yes, lca relocation brackets are a great idea.

 

This is a good thread. Helps answer alot of questions.

 

btw, you mph'd higher on the pass that you spun on because the car needs more gear. you got the wheel speed up when you spun and so the car went faster as a result.

 

Good points here. Getting suspension set up to almost hook on street tires would be harder on the the rear than just getting a dead hook.... Maybe I'll pick up a pair of drag radials.

I'll keep this thread going as a rookie learning how to drag race!

 

I'd get some drag radials or slicks for it. I wouldn't really be too worried about the rear for now. The 3.23's are a stronger gear then a numericaly higher gear. There's also things you can do with the tune to get the car moving before adding alot of power. You can ramp the WOT timing to come in more slowly. Even putting lca relo brackets on with the stock control arms will help. If you have a front sway bar, either remove it or disconnect it when you go to the track.

 

After reading this thread I opted to buy drag radials over drag shocks. Found these with 2 passes on them in craigslist today for $150. Maybe next weekend buy the drag shocks for the rear.

 

Didn't think the rims would fit but they did.

 

That's what I went with, Drag radials and stock LCA(but they are boxed) and stock TA, but I do have LCARBS.
My best 60ft is a 1.52.

The cheaper way to go is with DR's, and they are DOT too. If you dont drive too much, they are pretty good for wear

 

That 60' would get me into the high 11's! But I dont have enough stall to get there. I think I'm gonna get some LCARBs, box my LCAs, and throw on a set of DRs

 

Move torque arm off the tailshaft of transmission and attach to x member. Keep pinion angle at 2 to 3 degrees. Sticky tires will pull the trans mount apart and will hammer the trans into the floor on launch and shifts if you do not do this.

 

^^at his level, a poly mount will be fine. moving the tq arm off the transmission is a great idea, but not necessary.

 

Yeah, my TA is still on the tailshaft housing. With a factory mount to boot.



By coincidence, that happened to be the best pass it has run to date, 12.03 @ 112. 1.65 60', rear tires are 26x9.50-14 Hoosier Quicktime Pro DOT's on factory Berlinetta rims (very light). I drive the car year round, swap the rear tires at the track.

 

My shopping list has been updated lol

LCARBs
Poly tranny mount (it's still original rubber)
Steel to box LCAs
Drag radials. Will a 255 tire hook it up? I found some NT05's for 220 shipped/pair.

Will bracing the factory torque arm do anything?

 

if u can bend the steel into a chanel when u box the lca's this way the 2 sides fit down inside the stockers.before u weld them in drill 3 1/4 holes down each side f the lca so u can plug weld the pieces that fit down into the lca to the sides. this makes them stiffer then just adding a flat piece to the bottom of the lca

 

Not sure. Mine are 275/60 R15 Bf goodrich t/a drag radial. On a 7 inch wide rim. These look kind of narrow for my taste. A 325/60 on a 8.5 rim would have been better.

 

how heavy is this car? 109mph seems low for a 503 cammed AFR 195 head 383. I'd expect near 3450-3500 race weight and 360whp...thats good for 113-115mph in right conditions.

 

I haven't weighed it yet... I still may not be getting 100% out of the motor since I'm running the LS1 intake and intake elbow.

 

True, hows the tune look so far? I've seen LT1 cam only cars trap 110+ with that cam so a 383 with heads should be atleast 20-30hp more...LT1's seem to do 330whp with an auto with that cam