What 60 ft. times should I be looking at with a 91 z-28 350. Stock gears, I believe 3.23

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• Red '91 Z-28 350
• 700-R4 Trans
• T-tops
• no major power
  gaining mods, K&N
  Filter, Flowmaster
  exhaust -series 80-,
  exhaust cut-outs
• Best E.T.= 14.7@93.8mph,
• HardlinePerformance
  [URL=http://www.hardlineperformance.8m.com/propics/camaro2.gif[/URL]

 

2.0s Id be impressed, youll probably rip off a 2.15 or so. Dont feel bad though, I do the same spinning the crap out of my drag radials with a 3000 stall convertor. Oh well.

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91 RS W/carbed 350, Vortec heads, performer rpm, Comp cams Xtreme energy 224/230 duration and .477/.480 lift. BFG Drag radials. 3.42 posi,Corvette servoed 700r4, 3000rpm stall converter. Edelbrock TES, 3inch cat, flowmaster with single 2.5 inch exit.
Best time yet to come
13.0 @ 107- N/A
12.5@ 117- 100HP Nitrous

This is a Pic of my car in race trim www.tbns.net/billyjay/camero.jpg

Yes I know how to spell camaro- so dont ask. I didnt make the link

 

I checked my slips and I was hitting 2.3-2.4 60ft. with lots of tire spin. If I got it down to 2.1-2.2 how much better will my 1/4 mile time be from my present 14.7 at 93mph.

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• Red '91 Z-28 350
• 700-R4 Trans
• T-tops
• no major power
  gaining mods, K&N
  Filter, Flowmaster
  exhaust -series 80-,
  exhaust cut-outs
• Best E.T.= 14.7@93.8mph,
• HardlinePerformance
  [URL=http://www.hardlineperformance.8m.com/propics/camaro2.gif[/URL]

 

Generally, for cars like ours, a .1 reduction in the 60-foot times yields about a .15 reduction in the 1/4-mile time, so your 14.7 would drop to a 14.3 if you knocked off .2 second from your 60-foot time.

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 355TPI/A4

 

After looking over my time slips I think Greg is right on the money with the 0.1 seconds 60-foot is 0.15 reduction in 1/4-mile time.

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89 T-Top GTA 350 5-speed (soon to be 6-speed)
(Jet hot coated)1 3/4 SLP headers,flowmaster force 2,no cat's,SLP cold air,MSD 6al,march pulleys,ported plenum,air foil,B&M ripper shifter,180 stat,alston SFC,spohn LCA relocation brackets,ES LCA and Panhard bushings,free mods.

0-60 5.2s
Track Time
60' 2.049
E.T. 14.14@96.7MPH (2270 FT)
13.76@99.4MPH corrected

 

on one run I got a 2.18 60 ft. but ran a 14.8, what gives?

------------------

• Red '91 Z-28 350
• 700-R4 Trans
• T-tops
• no major power
  gaining mods, K&N
  Filter, Flowmaster
  exhaust -series 80-,
  exhaust cut-outs
• Best E.T.= 14.7@93.8mph,
• HardlinePerformance
  [URL=http://www.hardlineperformance.8m.com/propics/camaro2.gif[/URL]

 

Maybe the trans shifted differently that run, or maybe your engine was starting to heat up. Was that run made later in the day? It could have been a lot of things, but in general a better 60' times = better E.T.

peace

 

need a better break down of the slip to make an educated guess.

 

1 year ago before tune-up
-------------------------
R/T 1.185
60 2.131
330 6.222
1/8 9.597
MPH 72.69
1000 12.534
1/4 15.038
MPH 89.68

2 months ago with a tune up
---------------------------
R/T 1.255
60 2.181
330 6.250
1/8 9.572
MPH 75.26
1000 -----
1/4 14.892
MPH 92.71

------------------

• Red '91 Z-28 350
• 700-R4 Trans
• T-tops
• no major power
  gaining mods, K&N
  Filter, Flowmaster
  exhaust -series 80-,
  exhaust cut-outs
• Best E.T.= 14.7@93.8mph,
• HardlinePerformance
  [URL=http://www.hardlineperformance.8m.com/propics/camaro2.gif[/URL]

 

My front tires were at 36-37 psi and rears were about 27 psi

 

looks like you didnt shift into second gear at a hight enough RPM or encountered tirespin on the shift that wasnt there on the previous runs. Something funny happened between the 60ft clocks and the 330 ft.

 

Any other ideas why my times are bad? What else could I do to knock off a couple tenths? What should my tire pressure be on the rears and the front. I have all season Goodyear Eagle GT II's.

------------------

• Red '91 Z-28 350
• 700-R4 Trans
• T-tops
• no major power
  gaining mods, K&N
  Filter, Flowmaster
  exhaust -series 80-,
  exhaust cut-outs
• Best E.T.= 14.7@93.8mph,
• HardlinePerformance
  [URL=http://www.hardlineperformance.8m.com/propics/camaro2.gif[/URL]

 

I ran consistent 2.0's at the track with nittos and 2.77's. You should be able to pull off a 1.9 easy. Heck my best 60' was a 2.004. Stock suspension just a AFPR i forgot to really t&t and SLP runners. So I would say 1.9 easy.

 

Are my tires at coorect pressure for the track, or should I lower the psi in the rears?

------------------

• Red '91 Z-28 350
• 700-R4 Trans
• T-tops
• no major power
  gaining mods, K&N
  Filter, Flowmaster
  exhaust -series 80-,
  exhaust cut-outs
• Best E.T.= 14.7@93.8mph,
• HardlinePerformance
  [URL=http://www.hardlineperformance.8m.com/propics/camaro2.gif[/URL]

 

I wouldn't change them, those pressures should work just fine. If you want to really knock some time off from your et, either buy a set of Drag Radials or install a higher-stall torque converter, or both.

------------------
Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 355TPI/A4

 

My best 60 ft. is a 2.06 on lousy Cooper Cobra's. I knocked .2 off with the addition of Lakewood Lower Control Arms and Panhard Rod.

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1991 5.7L Z28
14.43 @ 96.16 MPH

 

I just raced tonight for my first time and got 1.8 60ft with M+H street legal slicks and Spohns adjustable lower control arms and relocation brackets hooks dang good, running 16.5 pounds in the tires.also not a stock motor so if you had the setup that I have with a stock motor it should hook with no problem, high stall torque converter really helps to.

 

sorry I also meant to say I have 3.73 gears

 

With the time slip I posted, if I made improvements, what do you guys think I can run in the 1/4?

What if I got headers how much better would I do?

------------------

• Red '91 Z-28 350
• 700-R4 Trans
• T-tops
• no major power
  gaining mods, K&N
  Filter, Flowmaster
  exhaust -series 80-,
  exhaust cut-outs
• Best E.T.= 14.7@93.8mph,
• HardlinePerformance
  [URL=http://www.hardlineperformance.8m.com/propics/camaro2.gif[/URL]

 

the other thing that everyoine has to remeber is that the way you stage the car will havbe a great effect on your 60' and your 1/4.
if you shallow stage, roll just into the beams, it will make your et and 60' lower. if you stage a bit deeper it will cause a slight rise in the et and 60'.
by going full deep, rolling forward until you turn out the top bulb, you can add 2 tenths to the et of a cqar that is shallow staged.
the effect will show up much greater inthe 1/4 than in the 60' but you shoudl see a difference in both.
the moral of the story is to stage as shallow as you can when you are going for et's, it will give you the best shot at your goals.

later
tim

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91 Camaro RS-LO3,Auto
New Times Coming Soon!
Check Out The East Coast F-Body Nationals Home Page
www.geocities.com/njspeeder
My MAFB.ORG Home Page
www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=299
DSI Racing Home Page
www.geocities.com/foff667

 

So to stage shallow, that just means just go far enough for the two stage lights to turn on?

 

yes.
the best staging process i have found to be consistant and shallow at the same time.
1. do your burn out and come to a complete stop
2. pull forward slowly until you turn on the top bulb and stop again
3. "bump" the car forward either by holding the brake just enough to hold the car still and tapping the gas or by pumping the brake so that the car rolls forward an inch at a time(try both, i usually use the brake pumping way). practice this in a parking lot some night, trust me, you will know it as soon as you do it right.
4. "bump" it one at a time until the bottom bulb comes on, and stop

if you do this and the bottom bulb flickers a bit, that means you are barely intot he beams. you will want to go ahead and give it one more bump to make sure it stays on. in competition if you leave "full stage" either by not being all the way in the beams or leaving early, you lose.
staging is a real key to consistancy, if you learn to do it well you can amaze your friends and beat them in any bracket race

later
tim


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91 Camaro RS-LO3,Auto
New Times Coming Soon!
Check Out The East Coast F-Body Nationals Home Page
www.geocities.com/njspeeder
My MAFB.ORG Home Page
www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=299
DSI Racing Home Page
www.geocities.com/foff667

 

Practice on your reaction time, you are sleeping at the lights. If you cannot go to the track alot to practice then buy a practice tree (if you are serious about improving yourself as a driver) you can alo try this site http://www.greatlakesdragaway.com
They have an online tree you can practice on. I have cut a perfect light on this practice site and it is very addictive. I plan on buying a practice tree with the foot pedal. The practice tree is nice because you can practice pro .400 or sportsman .500 and can adjust for roll out (ie time it takes for your car to move)

Honestly, a better and more consistent RT and accurate dial-in of your car will win you more bracket/trophy races in lieu of having a faster car.

I have a 12.5 second car and lost at an NSCA event by .3 seconds to a slower 13 second car because of my reaction time.

btw I 60' 1.6X seconds with nittos, lift bars and drag shocks. The car should run high 11s but I need to tune some more, and work on my launch technique.

Good luck.