http://www.jegs.com/p/Mickey-Thompso...53925/10002/-1

there are lots of drag radials available in an 18. but running a dedicated wheel/tire may be more appealing because you don't have to street drive on them all the time.

 

I really wanted to know is 18s ok like most have 16s.

 

at this level, 18's will work fine.

 

If your just going to put a set of tires on your current wheels then the 18s will be fine. If your planning on getting a set of dedicated drag wheels eventually then may as well get 15 rears now and get tires for them.

 

My car died today on the way home. Pop the hood see a sparking in the dark. Grabbed my ipad shot a video but its dark. Looks like a spark plug has rubbed against the headers.

 

Usually one or even 2 grounded plug wires isn't enough to kill the car. Replace all of them.

 

Thinking that could be my launch problem too. But I jumped it yesterday. Went to work this morning it was at 13 volts. Go to the bank back to work and it died when I pulled in a few minutes ago.

 

Trying to go to the track Friday for my birthday. Any tips?

 

you get some drag radials yet?

 

No changed the plugs and wires. Three wires looked like they were under a lawn mower,and the fuel filter was stock.

 

Went to the track for my birthday today
Have video too. Not uploaded yet.


Did a tiny burn out to wipe the tires clean
Put it in first
Punched it off idle
Reaction .7780
60ft 2.723
330ft 7.1159
Et @ 594 ft 10.0470
1/8 et 10.72327
1/8 mph 66.49
Manually shifted from 2 to overdrive instead of drive at the end.

Is something wrong?

 

buy tires. that sixty should be in the 1.8 or faster range.

 

What about mph?

 

You're spinning so badly, that I think its negatively effecting your mph.

 

Here goes the video.

 

A few suggestions I live near a dirt track and some dirt sprint cars run a 18 that works good on the track after there have burned them up in the dirt, most of the time they will just give them away. As far as at the track, sucks to be so far from a track but the main thing is seat time. If you look at a Christmas tree long enough you will get a site picture in your mind and your reaction time will come down. best advice I can give you is chip away at it change one thing at a time. Keep at it and have fun. I'm no expert but I did win street class Super Chevy Show in a green Station wagon.

 

Your not starting off with the shifter in 2 right? Not sure when gm started it but some cars will take off in second instead of first doing that.

 

No it pulls the hardest from "1" so that's what I start in

 

the video won't load.

honestly, till you get tires, or figure out a way to get out of the hole faster (learn to feather throttle vs just stabbing it) i'm not going to even start to diagnose anything further.

 

The video works for me.


I raced a truck and I rolled out (like you would at a light) got almost exact same 2.73 60ft. I punched it at about 30 trapped at 60 and 11 seconds but also tried to shift into third and it slipped to neutral wished coulda effected my mph as well. but not not by 17 mph. From 2nd to 3rd it wouldn't shift wot unless I left go off the pedal.

I downloaded an app on my ipad that measures acceleration ,hp based off g force. I did a small pass and it said im putting 122hp to the ground. It was only up to 43 mph but I got .34gs. but what I'm getting at is its not to far from my trap speeds.


I see smoke from the exhaust and smell fuel when I'm sitting in traffic to long. Don't know if any if this helps

 

Decided to check the codes

Here's a video of the codes


Anyone know what they mean?

 

I don't know. The worst 60ft I have ever gotten was a 2.5 spinning all 60ft because the track official didn't notice the oil the car infront of me sprayed the track down with.

 

you have 4 codes. i'll give you a run down of what's going on:

each code flashes 3 times

it flashes a code 12 at the beginning and at the end of the list of codes. this simply means it's in diagnostic mode and to tell you when the list of codes is at it's end.

your codes:
24-VSS circuit
26-evaporative emissions purge solenoid circuit
55-fuel lean monitor
64-bank 2 (right) o2 sensor lean

as far as what you do with this info, i'm not totally sure as i'm no lt1 guy. my guess would be to double check condition of o2 sensor, replace if needed. check for vacuum leaks. find out if the right bank has any fueling issues that are apparent.

the vss circuit i have no idea what to do with other than check to see if the vss is hooked up, or if you even have one seeing how you have a mechanical speedometer.

the evap emissions code i'd imagine has nothing to do with performance or drivability. i would probably ignore that code all together.

 

Guess I better be safe and replace both o2 sensors

 

every time listed in this thread is way slow for the car running - was the timing system working properly?

 

Are you sure the track wasn't uphill?

I am def no expert on tracks, but like other people have said, you are in V6 territory.

 

Only thing wrong with the car I know of, are the codes the computer is throwing.

 

Sure, kick a man while he's down lol.

I wonder how they guy in the feels he knew he couldn't pass my doors and I'm trapping 16 miles lower than I'm suppose too lol.

 

I'm gonna replace the o2s tomorrow.

 

I made a pass tonight using my speedometer app. It's been pretty close to actual times. When I made passes before replacing my plugs, wires, and o2 sensor I was trapping at 66,64, and 63. Well tonight I trapped at 84 in the 1/8 and it says 330 flywheel hp. Sounds pretty close, what you think? I know it's not 100% perfect but the mph stays close.

 

what was your 60?

 

The times aren't very accurate lol but it said 3.1 60ft with a 9.4 1/8 time

 

Tell us your launch rpm.

 

Idle

 

9.4 sec 1/8 mile and you trapped 84mph?

I know its been said but you're never going to get good times out of that car without some slicks or just figuring out how to launch it as is better.

The best I ever got on street tires on my V6 was 2.10's and that was still a slight spin for a second. You have a V8 with no turbo lag like me so im sure its instant tq and burnouts off the line if your not running some sort of DR's or slicks.

As your 60ft times come down and you keep the speed up youll notice that the trap MPH will fall too. My car can make 8.1x second 1/8 mile passes at the same speed you made a mid 9 in. So thats somthing to work twards as my WHP is close to 275-300hp.

 

was that 84mph at the track or on the gtech? cause f he trapped 66 at the track, then fixed a couple things, then 84mph on the gtech, i feel like he didn't really get a good measure....can't change the measuring device and expect to have accurate results.

the car needs tires, and to go back to the track.

 

I agree with everyone else, find some slicks or DR's and have at it... even a decent set of used ones will help you out. I just scored a used set of 3055s's for my car for $150, and went 1.50 60' with them.

Next, get yourself a better gear & a locker. I've gotten used gears off Ebay for dirt cheap and ran them, I even have a set of 4:11 kicking around for that carier, pm me if your interested. I'd recomend a 4:11 or 3:90, because you have an overdrive with a lockup, so you'll still be able to go down the highway.

Then, get a converter. I got mine again off Ebay, it was $320 shipped to my door, and i picked up almost .2 in the 60'... and it made the car WAY consistant. It came from a seller called "freakshow" converters, made by a guy named Mike in Texas. For yours, the converter will be less than $500 shipped, and will make you faster, or he wont sell it to you.

But, before you do any of this, make sure what you have is mechanicaly sound, or you'll be pulling your hair out trying to go faster, and having burnt wires or the like will only make it harder.

You will get better at this, and make the car better, but it takes many passes, and tweaks, and changes, but you still will never be "perfect"... I know because i've been racing my car for almost a decade.


However, you did say the magic words... this sport is all about FUN, if your not having it, at least some of the time, it's time to look into something else.

 

Yeah I agree. It's my ipad that I used. I want to get a time slip before I believe the 84 trap speeds because it hasn't had an accurate pass since.

I may go back to the track again on street tires I know. But I want to see how it runs with the street tires as a baseline. Plus I'm trying to decide if I want to find 2 16" rims off craiglist or put tires on my 18s., and what sizes.

 

I found a guy with a open disc rear but I'm waiting for him to email me back with what gear is in it. I'm thinking whatever he has it better than my posi drum 2.73s. Plus he only wants $100.

And I got a $300 converter I can do. If my gf drove my car would she be able to tell? I heard those are he best.

And I just got my car back running so lets see how long that lasts.

 

Is there any good drag shocks that will help lower my 60 and still street able?

 

get some 15's or 16's to put a dedicated tire on it so you have more sidewall to help you. you don't need shocks yet...put that money towards a proper set of tires.

 

Matt has said it so many times before in this thread. You need tires. Now. Don't bother with a "base line" on street tires. It won't tell you a darn thing. All it will tell you is that you're spinning, and you need tires. You and everyone else following already knows this, so don't waste the fuel for those passes. If you don't street drive a lot, get some Mickey Street Radials for the rims you have. They go for about $200-$225 a piece, but you won't find a better radial. If you street drive a ton, get a cheap set of rims, and find some used slicks for $50-$100 for the pair. They're out there. You need tires, like, yesterday. Can't stress that enough!

 

Not sure why guys didn't say this.Not having gears/t/c and 18" tires adverse effect your 60' times.So what I am saying is those 18" tires are not the size you want to run.You would think a 15" drag tire won't hook as well,but it helps keep the engine up into it's power curve better.
After the swap to a drag tire and if it doesn't improve,then it time to look elsewhere.If it had been me,I would take out the plugs I got in it now and read them.(keep them in order with a pc of cardboard) Then do at least a compression test.

The guys on here will tell you the search for ET's is never ending and does take abit of continuous work.

 

I dont understand what you are asking me. The best converters are the ones that give you the time slips your after. The Freakshow ones simply are the best bang for the buck that I have been able to find.

If you already have it, try it. It's worth it to spend some money on a custom built converter, but you dont have to spend $800....

 

you're right Gary, no one mentioned him putting tires on the car....

 

Ok I found a few 16s on craiglist. I know I don't need shocks for the strip but this is my dd. I have 20 year old $20 Gabriel shocks on their from the previous owner. And I was asking for my future list of mods.

 

Don't go back to the track with street tires there go my Friday night lol. But ok. Like I said earlier this is my dd. Should I get new rims in the front too, or just but mickeys on the back? I street drive a lot so these wheels will only be to drive there and make passes and drive back.

 

I was just asking does it drive like stock until you are on it.

 

it'll feel like the trans is "soft" with a loose converter. it might throw your gf for a loop the first time or two she drives the car. once in OD and the converter is locked it drives like stock.

16's OK. try to get some 255/50/16 mt et street radials for it.

front skinnies will help with ET and such, but not necessary for figuring out what's going on with your combo, lol.

just another set of cheapy parts store shocks will be fine, so long as they're in working order. you could get a set of 3 way adjustables if you wanted, comp engineering has a set that isn't too pricey.

 

I agree, go with the 255 MTs. I have the same ones. Summit has them about $225 a piece. They'll hook for you

I should have rephrased my earlier statement. By all means, you can still go to the track, that's your choice. But if you're there solely for the purpose of a "base line" with tires you know are going to spin, it won't tell you anything. Go to have fun if nothing else!