I am having a couple issuses and wanted to see if anyone else has had these problems. I am having clearance problems, drivers side valve cover and brake booster and wind shield wiper pump cover. Has anyone else have these issues, I know my covers are taller than stock because of the shaft rockers
















This is a t-56 magnum conversion by RPM Transmissions to LS1 tailhousing, but you can see from where the shifters sits, I will have to cut 2 inches of floor out to allow for shifter, one of the other members stated they only had to cut 1/2 from floor to fit shifter for LS1, I was just wondering that his is a 92, did GM make any changes in shifter location hole between different years

I am going to try the wiper motor out of an 1988, they do not have the pump is the motor cover and that is the only thing touching, just hoping it fits. I will hook up an external pump for the wipers

Someone asked me what was in the motor, here is the list, motor is naturally aspirated made 895.4 horsepower on the Dyno.

Dart Big M block
565 cu in
Callies Dragonslayer Crank
Diamond 11:1 pistons
Race Flow Development Heads
Oliver Rods
Moroso pan and pump
AED 1150 Carb
Bullet .825 lift cam
Crower Stainless Steel shaft rockers and needleless bearing roller lifters

Starting to get some work done, finally got the new alternator fit, but now rad fan hit belt so I have to cut rad support to fit the rad

I have the transmission fitted with new MGW shiter and Hurst shifter ****

Sound clip already!! Lol!!
Drooled a lil bit...ha ha!!
Nice!!!

Man that is sweet with the stick. We have a 87 GTA with a 468 750hp and a glide we are building...and the stick would be awesome.

Needless to say...we dont have wipers or an alternator etc...so ours drops right in.

I think I have the problem to fix the brake booster and wiper motor, I am going to have the valve cover modified so I can get clearance around those two items.

Tried to fit the rad, and the fan is hitting the alternator belt. Looks like I am going to have to modify the rad support so I can move the rad back 1/4 of a inch. I have a large Ron Davis rad with dual fans and the belt just touches the motor on 1 of the fans

subscribed!! thats alot of beef in that car!!

After the motor was broken in on the dyno, this was the very first pull on the motor to 6500 RPM, Bruce through tuning made another 60 hp and running the motor to 7100 rpm. Link below is for the video of the first pull

What was the result of the shifter? Did you wind up having to cut the 2" out of the floor? I'm planning to do a T56 Magnum swap, and I was under the impression that the rear-most shifter location for the magnum was farther back than a standard T56 and would only require minimal if any cutting.

it is the other way around, the rear most position of the t-56 magnum is forward of our shifter location, that is why I had it converted to the LS1 tail housing to move the shifter back, even thought I did have to cut the floor, the shifter fit in the consel without any mofication. I moved the rubber shift cover back to cover the new opening and used some sheet metal to fill in at the front of the opening where the rubber sfhiter cover used to be.

Here are some of the latest pictures

Modified windshield wiper pump motor by removing the pump and cutting case to get clearance and relocated pump by clutch fluid reservoir







Just received new aluminum driveshaft from driveshaft specialist

Honestly I think you need a bigger motor :-)

Wow. That looks great. Good luck!

Naturally aspirated and made 900 hp, that is one bad motor! I am so very jealous lol. I have a 85 roller just sitting in the driveway begging for one of the old Mark IV blocks my dad has been saving, just waiting for my wallet to get fatter lol.

This is an awesome build man! Can't wait to see it run.

The only thing left to do is exhaust, debating between 3 or 3 1/2 inch pipes, once that is done just have to do spark plug wires and it is finished, can't wait.

The only thing left to do is exhaust, here are a couple pictures of the car






Here is a picture of the stance with big block in it

Car is sitting in a shop called Extreme Exhaust, the are putting on a 3 1/2 inch stainless steel magnaflow exhaust, here are some pictures

LOTS of cash in that car. Nice work!

Damm that's pretty!!!.

Sounds great too!!
Thanks for the sound clip!!!

Could you post a picture of a side view of the exhaust (eye level with bottom of rocker panel)? I would like to see ground clearance of the exhaust.

THanks and nice build!

As soon as it is finished and on the ground I will post

Here are some new pictures of exhaust




















Rear view of car with exhaust complete

I'm close to having my freshly rebuilt 496 up and running again! Please send me a sound clip of that massive cam lol

I have to buy new valve covers to fit my lunati stud girdles, Do you know what height you needed to fit yours?

The only thing I ever bought cheap for my car was the Valve covers, I bought procomp, and they are excellent, they have a 3/8 billet rail, lot of room for stud girdle. Bought them off ebay for 80.00, looked at a pair of moroso for 350.00 and the procomps looked as good or better

Did you say shaft roller rockers??.

Yes, I have the Crower Stainless Steel shaft rockers

Surprised they would need a stud girdle.

They don't, the poster asked if my valve cover had enought room for a stud girtle, since he is running roller rockers with a stud girtle. I just said he would have lots a room with these valve covers with his setup

Do those have a dedicated oiler hole for the rollers??.

I really do like their products.They have been around for yrs and have evolved with solid R & D.

I orginially looked at T & D, but when I called them, they said that they did not recommend them for street use and stated I should go with Stainless Steel. I contacted the head builder and he says he uses T&D, infact T&D have a special set made just for his heads, he said that he uses the crowers on all his marine applications because they run at full speed for hours at a time and said they would be a great street rocker.
My engine builder stated that when they first came out there was some problems with the rollers, but they had fixed that and have become a great system

Yep-a marine application would be the best test bed.That never occurred to me,but it makes tons of sense.

T & D does make a decent system.Thing is they only operate Monday threw Thursday and build for each application.No shelf stock.Turn time 4 to 6 wks.Rebuilds are 4 wks turn.Need to buy extra when ordering system for extra parts just in case.Steel systems is a custom order adding to the order time.

When I talked them about there steel rockers arm, he said they just just chromemoly and stainless would be better and they wanted another 700.00 extra for them. Crowers were around 1500.00, T&D stell would have been closer to 2100.00 for the Edlebrock heads

I'm going Jesel's threw and threw.Two day turn on rebuilds and with it being a race deal only that means alot to me in the middle of the season.Also I'm building a engine to cover two brackets,so I do need so to speak a universal set up.One for a very de-tuned deal and the other where I will be spinning it up some.

I don't think you can go wrong with Jessel, T&D or Crower. I had Jessels on my A/ED, had a 477 CI BBC and buzzed that over 10,000 RPM a couple times by accident and they held together with no problem

Here is a link to motor running

Are you concerned about T-tops popping off under WOT?? Did you make a mod to them to keep them on the car?

My car has a full cage and has never had an issue with the t-tops even before it got a cage.

I have never heard of any one losing a t-top, I have heard of cracking wind shields without the car been braced properly with lots of power but hooking on a race track. It is awful hard to get any car to hook hard enough on city streets to break a lot of parts

Thanks guys, I lost a passenger T-Top during a 1/4 mile run shifting T-5 from 2nd to 3rd about the 1/8th mile with NOS. More I think about it, must have been loosely secured. My car has subframes, but no cage and ran high 11's at the time.....

I just wanna be sure a T-topped 3rd gen is a good candidate for a 650 hp BBC with a built 4L60!!

Are you able to re-connect that strut tower brace? Looks like Edelbrock's.

Don't feel too bad. I had that happen many years ago. Had a busted latch and didn't know til it ejected 100' out on the track.

T top cars need a cage to be stiff enough IMO.

You are right it is edelbrock, but no it will not fit any more. The front bar that goes between the struts is hitting on the fuel log. I will have to modify it to fit

Just made this up for fun, hopefully you get a laugh out of it

My 87 Iroc threw a T-Top from 2nd to 3rd shift on a 10.8 sec 1/4 mile run. Prob would have been a bit faster time that pass if i hadnt been confused about what happened.

Anyways not trying to hijack thread. Thats a wicked car, I want a video of a 1/4 pass it was done and done right from the looks.

Did you get your valve cover- to- wipermotor clearance issue fixed?