To lower your compression by increasing the quench distance is a recipe for detonation. Keep the quench distance tight to under .040", and you'll be much better off.

 

where at in Wyoming?

 

Askulte is correct, you don't want to sacrifice good quench for lower compression, as you may still have detonation issues and decreased performance. I'd keep stock compression and boost at around 6psi to start out. Your ECM can adjust very slightly for increased airflow, but not for the extra airflow you will get from a turbo. I would highly suggest a good tune if you want your engine to last. I did break a skirt off a piston in my car, and that may have been to a poor tune (at least in part). The 3400 only has 9.5:1 compression, but I was tuning with a RRFPR only (no timing retard). I would recommend doing a lot of research, start by reading the several turbo books out there. You can also browse some forums and find a car that is performing the way you want and just copy. Just make sure you copy someone who knows their stuff!

-Kenton

 

this is probably a stupid question, but stupid questions seem to get the snappiest/fastest answers and I didn't really think this was worthy of it's own topic. here it is: would mounting a turbo in the area where the catalytic converter used to be (yay for no pre-96 emissions) be a good idea? properly shielded from road moisture of course.

I figured there's a bit of space there (89 TA's my idea car), it's pretty close to the headers/manifolds so you don't lose much exhaust heat, and no turbo headers to fab. so, how many times has it been done, how well does it work, how difficult is it to pull off, or is it simply not a good idea? I'm not very well versed in the ways of the turbo, but I hear a lot of good things and this seems like the best/easiest/most cost effective way to turbo my car, in theory.

 

I have wondered this as well, but I can tell you I hae never seen a thirdgen cat that did not have some sort of curb or road mark on it, a turbo in every aspect is thicker than a cat. So I would say no, unless you could skidplate it. this would result in contact with the turbo and annoying vibration, so there again no. sorry

 

thanks for the quick input. I have decided to keep the higher compression since all the kits out there specifically made by GM run 8psi anyway I figure it can handle the 6 you were saying. I was thinking of getting a adjustable boost controller but the only one i found was 1-30 psi. I dont want that cuz my retarded *** will want to go bigger until it blows... does anyone know of a smaller boost controller (under-hood not in-car) say 1-10psi? I actually went to barnes and noble and answered some of my questions today and will go back tomorrow. I dont want to buy the 2 books i found that were helpful because they are $45+. can someone link me to a wastegate (ebay or retail) that is around what I need for my t04 t3/t4 at 6-8psi Preferably something that can be adjusted (its externally gated) . I am seriously starting from scratch and thats where im started is at that turbo.

 

Probably be no way in hell you could mount a turbo in place of the cat without tearing it off on a bump or something...

 

[QUOTE=rmmstnr;3266990]this is probably a stupid question, but stupid questions seem to get the snappiest/fastest answers and I didn't really think this was worthy of it's own topic. here it is: would mounting a turbo in the area where the catalytic converter used to be (yay for no pre-96 emissions) be a good idea? properly shielded from road moisture of course.
[QUOTE]

I've been thinking of doing that on a S10

 

but im located in cheyenne/laramie(school). and i saw a smashed cockroach today (the new eclipse) are they turbocharged?

 

just was looking at different pumps for the scavenging system and ran across this one http://turbowerx.com/page1/page2/page2.html doesn't look too bad at all and is much cheaper than the weldon one

 

That pump does look good... Although I've never heard of anyone having problems with the Mocal - http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm, which I think is a Shur-flo with high temp internals.

No reason you couldn't mount the turbo in the cat area, other than clearance. If you tubbed the floorboard around it and tucked it up, it'd probably do fine, but don't forget the 3" intake, 3" exhaust, 2" compressor outlet, and 3" turbine inlet will take up quite a bit of room. I've thought of making a y-pipe turbo for my Durango R/T the same way, but the weak transmission and the fact that the ECM isn't readily programmable convinced me not to mess with a perfectly working daily driver.

 

haven't seen that pump but it does look good.... as for the turbo in the cat area, thats where i plan to put mine once the weather is better... i will be plasma cutting some of the floor out to make clearance and i need to get some 3/16" aluminum plate to make a nice skid plate

 

Fantastic thread! Excellent that it's lasted so long. I've been planning a RMT system for my '94 Infiniti Q45 for a long time and am getting close. A friend told me about your thread here so I've spent the last few hours reading through it.

I have a couple questions for you, 89 JYturbo (and anyone else who can share their knowledge). First, any reason you don't install the oil pump before the turbo? This is what I had planned to do on mine primarily as you wouldn't have to worry about the hot oil in the pump. Also, you wouldn't really have any pressure in the turbo with the pump after the turbo would you? The pressure would be after the pump. If anything you should have negative pressure, or a vacuum, in the turbo or do you just want flow and no real pressure inside the turbo? Also, did you install an oil filter anywhere in your oil system? Didn't see you metion it anywhere?

Second, on one of your posts you mention ssautochrome as a seller of cheap turbos. Do you have any experience with their units? I had been watching a few of their kits but just a couple days ago they are "No Longer A Registered User" on ebay. I hadn't been able to find anything saying that their units were prone to defect. Info could be irrelevant at this point as they may not be selling on ebay any longer, time will tell. Any info you have on them, as well as other discount turbo dealers on ebay, would be helpful.

 

SSAUTOCHROME IS BAD STAYAWAY... they are the proliferators of the imfamous superglue turbo design...ie instead of one piece casting the make em 2 piece and superglue them together... that is superawsome with an turbo spinnin at 120k

 

SSautochrome made what has become known on Turbobuick.com as the "ebay headers". A good set of headers for the Grand national is anywhere from $600 to $1000, the ebay headers were selling for $200. It was just luck if someone received a set that actually fit. I personally installed a set on a GN (not mine!) and the fit was terrible. The guy had to take it to an exhaust shop to have the crossover pieces cut & welded to fit, and had to make the downpipe fit. Some didn't even have provisions for the O2 sensor! I'd stay far away from anything SSautochrome built.

 

Since I left that post I've been digging deaper and found quite a bit of information. I guess I didn't really look that hard before. I have noticed that pretty much all of the people reporting problems were posted over a year ago. Any recent experience with the products? I have heard many have had success with their turbo's and the unit that had all the "epoxy" issues was the early T3/T4 model. I've also heard that SSAC's customer service was pretty good and that they would replace a unit if it was bad.

I have sent them a few emails so I'll see how they respond. I am going to ask for an explaination of the issues floating around the web and see what they have to say about it.

I have heard good things about Master Power Turbos, can anyone recommend a good place to purchase one if these?

Been working the numbers and the best match have found so far from comparing compressor maps is the Garrett GT4294. I'd prefer to have ball bearings but it's the closes match I've come across so far. Trouble is that one is around $1000+. That pretty much kills my ability to finish this project. I need to find the proper turbo for $500 or less. Preferrably in the $350 range would be good. Anyone have a recommendation?

 

i thought the GT line was ball bearings well what ever SSauto is gone it is now XS-power... it seems ebay gave them the boot

take a look here they have some pretty decent stuff
http://www.spooledmotorsports.com/turbochargers.php

 

there is a thread in power adder about ssautochrome and the many alias' they use as well as pictures and descriptions of their junk.

installing the pump before the turbo doesnt allow it to be an oil scavenger, which is the whole point of having a pump at all in this case.

 

That site lookes like a pretty good one, I'll check it out.

So the oil tap up by the motor provides enough pressure to feed the turbo by itself? I always assumed the pump did all the work. Did everyone thats done the RMT here use a T on the oil pressure sending unit? I was going to use an oil filter sandwich plate for my oil feed outlet. Any thoughts?

 

You could build a 'divorced' oil system for the turbo, but it is much easier (IMO) to use the engine as the oil pressure feed. The electric oil pump is just there to scavenge the oil from the turbo and pump it back to the engine. See my website, www.khturbo.net.

I am one of the poor suckers that bought SSAC turbos a few years back for my TT IROC-Z. I think they have improved some, but I had 2 out of 3 fail for me (both of the failures happened in under 5 miles of driving and I did not get any money refunded or replacement turbos). At first my local turbo speciallist was sure I had a bad lube system (even though my home-rebuilt T3's went 7k miles with no trouble on the same lube system). Upon disassembly and inspeciton of the failed SSAC units, it became obviouse that it was indeed a turbo issue. The problems were way too numerous to list here.

-Kenton

 

I recommend you just use a pressure port. I can think of several ways to hook up a sandwich adapter, and most result in huge problems.

Also here is the SSAUTOCHROME thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...guy-about.html

 

I made a T fitting for my oil pressure switch, on the T i have the oil pressure gauge sending unit, the stock oil pressure switch, and the line that goes to the turbo. I provides plenty of pressure to the turbo no problem, in fact I put a restrictor on the turbo so that the full pressure wouldnt go into the turbo at once and possibly damage seals. The pump is just to retrieve the oil from the turbo's return line and send it to the front to the engine. I wouldnt use a sandwhich plate, sounds like overkill when the pressure switch location is good enough.

 

Thanks, after reading through this thread I pulled up the service manual for my car and figured out what to do. I like this method much better. Should provide a much more reliable connection. What did you use for a restrictor? Some sort of valve or just a smaller size fitting inline somewhere?

Is anyone using a filter inline somewhere or is that asking for trouble if it restricted flow too much?

 

Thats actually a good idea bout the inline filter however I dont know if it will restrict the flow. I dont have a filter on mine but I have not had any problems yet. and its been almost 4months i think since i did the rear mount.

I used a nitrous jet and used a 1/16 drill bit to open up the hole, then for the turbo's feed inlet adapter, i cut the tip of it and made it flat then put the nitrous jet over it, so you screw in the feed line (which is a nitrous line so the jet fits perfect). I saw saw a site showing how to do this, but i cant find it right now. It also depends on what turbo you will be using, I was told for my turbo T04B i needed the restrictor so i got it.

 

If you can locate the write up I'd like to check it out. Can you draw up a diagram of what you did?

Thanks.

 

Well I used 89JYturbo's information as a guide to do my setup and it helped me alot. You can get alot of useful information on his site. http://khturbo.net/rmtz24/RMTZ24.html

as for oil here is the diagram he has on the site as well, which is exacly what i did. http://www.khturbo.net/images/Misc/RMTOilDiagram1.JPG

I also added a check valve at the feed on the turbo's inlet, that way when the car is off, oil wont drip from the feed line into the turbo. Its a spring check valve, which allows fluid to pass only if its above certain psi like 1 or 2 psi. I also did like him and got a turbo timer so the scavange pump keeps running after the car is off, in my setup 2 mintues is the needed time to pull all the oil from the turbos return.

 

I'm sure I can figure this out. So all your oil is passing through a 1/16th" hole to get to the turbo? The oil system diagram on khturbo.net shows using 1/4" tubing to the turbo then 1/2" and 3/8" to exit the turbo. If the pump is running there shouldn't ever be much pressure in the turbo. Are you also using 1/4" tubing to the turbo from the engine?

 

Do you have any photos of your setup online anywhere? I'd like to see what you've done.

 

Does anyone have a good current source for the SHURflo oil pump? I found it at one place online that wants $131 for it. I had a pump I picked up some time ago for this purpose but I just realized it doesn't have enought output for this. It's only 3 GPH and the SHURflo model is 1.5 GPM. Big difference....

Here's the place I found it at so far.
http://www.pumpagents.com/ShurfloPum...0-643-236.html

 

Can more than 1.5 gpm flow past one tiny shaft with a very tight clearance?

A.

 

I doubt it flows that much in this system but the one I have is only .05 GPM so I don't think it's gonna work. I may play with it but I actually already ordered the SHURflo pump, it'll be here next Thurs about the same time as my turbo and accessories

 

I believe i have a 3/8th line going from the pump to the engine. Its basically w/e size is most common for tranny cooler hoses. i think its 3/8.

here are couple pics of when i first got the setup done. its alot cleaner now though.

 

So how is everyone physically mounting the turbo? My turbo should be delivered any day now so I haven't looked at it up close yet but I had assumed I'd fab up some kind of bracket off the T4 turbine inlet flange. Have any of you done that or are you just supporting it by the exhaust inlet or outlet? I suppose a good bracket on the inlet and outlet exhaust tubing would support it fine. I just don't want it do move at all.

If anyone has close up photos of the mounting brackets I would appreciate seeing them. I see on those photos above that there are several brackets on the tail pipe. Are these brackets supporting the weight of the turbo?

Thanks.

 

Those two brackets support the tail and the turbo basically the entire rear end in that area. notice the one on the right is actually a hanger that you bolt to the car, there is no movement AT ALL. its perfect.

I finally had a a dyno done, i dyno'd 258whp and 263tq at 7.5psi

 

What kind of car is this in and what motor do you have?

 

97 Maxima. 3.0 V6 (VQ30)

 

Alright another Nissan guy! My project is on a '94 Infiniti Q45 with the VH45DE V8 274ci motor. Shooting for 350hp+/- at the wheels. I will have a baseline number in the next couple weeks. Most are getting about 240+/- at the wheels with their stock Q's so I imagine I'll be around that. I've currently got a remapped ECU and a different air intake.

 

Pretty cool, what are you going to do to accomplish 350?

 

Well, I should be at around 300 at the crank stock but of course that is an estimate. Take 20% off for drivetrain loss that would put me at about 240 which is where most people are getting on the dyno. According to several calculators and formulas I have tried I should be able to achieve approximately 450 hp at the crank @ about 6 PSI. Take 20% off for drivetrain loss and I should be 350-360whp range. Obviously there are many variables to concider but it should be very achievable. I will probably set it up with a dual boost controller with the low boost around 4-5 PSI and high boost at around 7-8 PSI with methanol injection while on high boost. OEM equipment is supposed to be good up to about 500hp so I guess we'll see! At 8 PSI I should be right at about 500 hp at the crank.

I'm sure there will be a lot of tuning to figure out and it's not really a common vehicle to get tuned. I have a few sources so hopefully it will work out.

 

I thought of the same thing. Everyone is right about it being too low, but that's only if you want it to look nice and clean below your car. My interior of my car doesn't look like it did 19 years ago. So my idea is to basically cut out the floor board at that location and fab a box around the turbo. With correct insulation i think it wouldn't get to hott, but I don't think my passengers would be too comfortable....f***'em it's my car.

 

I am probably going to use some stainless steel 1/4" tubing for the oil feed line but what type of hose is everyone using for the return line? I want 1/2" from the turbo to the pump and then 3/8" from the pump back up to the motor. B4Ctom1's guide for the oil system says "high temp" oil line but I'm not finding any hose labeled as such. I find air compressor hose and fuel line hose. Are these what you are referring to? The pressure capability is fine but not sure about the temp limits, I think they are only listed up to about 200 degrees F.

I have some 1" finned heat sink "cells" from some other equipment I may use just out of the turbo to act as a sump as well as a heat sink/radiator. It should cool the oil somewhat before it gets to the pump. I'll post a photo of one when I get a chance.

 

I've got a -10 AN drain line, along with most folks I know (that don't have turbo oil seal problems). -10 is roughly 10/16's, or 5/8" inside diameter.

 

use tranny line or -4 AN line

 

You use AN line all the way to the front? I don't think that is necessary. The STS kits don't even use that. I assume you are referring to the steel braided hose, right? I could go with that just out of the turbo to the pump then use something else for the return. Can you guys be a little more specific?

Oh, and here is a photo of my potential oil sump/cooler idea. It's stainless steel tubing in the center with aluminum heat sink. I will weld on some threaded 1/2" half couplings on the ends and maybe insert something in the center to create turbulence so the oil has more time to cool. Just an idea and I have a few of these around the shop. I also have them with a 2" tube in the center. This 1" model is 11.5" long x 3" high x 4" wide. The 2" ones are 11" x 4" x 5.5" which would make a better sump and if it fits would probably cool better as well. I'll have to see what I have room for when I get the components and start mocking it up.

 

no I was talking about for the feed line. its going to be hot and pressurized. The return line isn't going to be exposed to much pressure at all, so hand fit aluminum line would probably be fine from the pump back to the engine.

If space exists I like your idea for the cooler. That could add life to the pump and provide a little evacuated sump for the oil to pass into on its journey back to the engine.

 

I was going to use the 1/4" stainless tubing for the feed line because I already have some and use it all the time at work. I have compression fittings of all sizes and it would be pretty easy an not very expensive. Are you using 1/4" I.D. or 1/4" O.D. for your feed? The stainless tubing I have is 1/4" O.D. so the inside diameter is pretty small.

Do any of you have an oil pressure switch anywhere on your oil loop? If so, where did you place it? The STS kit appears to have an oil pressure switch between the scavenge pump and the turbo oil outlet. Not sure what they are wiring it to, maybe just a pressure gauge.

 

Have any of you used a wideband O2 to check your A/F ratios? I've decided to get one and was curious if any of you have used one on your rear mount setup. Where did you install the sensor bung? After the turbo or close to the engine?

 

it doesnt matter that the turbo is remotely mounted, for the best O2 results mount as close to the engine as possible.

 

Is anyone using a different type of motor oil after the turbo installation?

 

Well looks like some one beat me to it but the mocal pumps are great we use them on are rear mount turbo kits and from what i under stand sts does as well.