Projected values for ET
Projected values for ET
I have been rummaging through the power adder threads with
(Everyone is using that, so I suppose I ought to as well - though in a different context.)
There are few members that have ten second cars to begin with, and the search function is not the most efficient means to search for these folks. Usually, I am very loath to inquire publicly about items of concern as such because they are, in a way, abnoxiously general. However, seeing as I have done a weeks worth of search with meager results, I am certainly not as anxious about this:
Assuming a suitable and appropriate drivetrain is in course, consisting of a TH-400 or 700r4, and Currie 9 inch rear-end, what is a necessary amount of peak horsepower to in deed make quarter-mile runs of 10.xx. I am assuming the car weighs no more than 2 tons with the driver. This would be done with a 383 and procharger D-1SC.
(Everyone is using that, so I suppose I ought to as well - though in a different context.) There are few members that have ten second cars to begin with, and the search function is not the most efficient means to search for these folks. Usually, I am very loath to inquire publicly about items of concern as such because they are, in a way, abnoxiously general. However, seeing as I have done a weeks worth of search with meager results, I am certainly not as anxious about this:
Assuming a suitable and appropriate drivetrain is in course, consisting of a TH-400 or 700r4, and Currie 9 inch rear-end, what is a necessary amount of peak horsepower to in deed make quarter-mile runs of 10.xx. I am assuming the car weighs no more than 2 tons with the driver. This would be done with a 383 and procharger D-1SC.
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
There is a big difference between a car that weighs 3400 pounds running in the 10's and a 4000 pound car running in the 10's. 600-650 horsepower is a good start assuming everything else is up to par.
I would assume so. However, things are being built to support more than 650 horsepower, making power changes as simple as a different pulley and retuning. I would assume that keeping it within 7xx horsepower will bring me my goal. Now I am wondering what is too much for street/strip.
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by mgray10
I would assume so. However, things are being built to support more than 650 horsepower, making power changes as simple as a different pulley and retuning. I would assume that keeping it within 7xx horsepower will bring me my goal. Now I am wondering what is too much for street/strip.
I would assume so. However, things are being built to support more than 650 horsepower, making power changes as simple as a different pulley and retuning. I would assume that keeping it within 7xx horsepower will bring me my goal. Now I am wondering what is too much for street/strip.
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 645
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From: NY
Car: 2013 C63C
Engine: M156 (P31)
Transmission: 7 speed MCT
Axle/Gears: AMG Limited Slip
I'd agree that between 600-650hp is a good start, more if the drivetrain/suspension is not working properly or not matched to the powerband - less if you set the car up to 60ft and 1/8mile really well(ala super stock and stock eliminator cars that run well into the 10's at under 120mph).
HTH,
Steve
HTH,
Steve
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,024
Likes: 91
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
Basically you need a weight(Lbs)/power(BHP) ratio of 5.86 to run a 10.5, assuming that the car is optimally geared and things are fairly optimized. Figure out your weight and you can get your HP.
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