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Nitrous Wet kit, what else to get?

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Old May 30, 2005 | 01:15 AM
  #1  
mike1986fyrbird's Avatar
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From: Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 357ci Stealth Ram - Under Pressure
Transmission: Built 700r4/Pro Yank 3400 Extreme
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.27
Nitrous Wet kit, what else to get?

Hey.
I am going to be ordering nitrous for my GTA in a few days. I need to know what else to get.

I will be running a Compucar wet kit.

I tried to search but I can not find answers to all of my questions.
The car is a 87 350tpi with headers/K&n/exhaust and 80,000 miles on it. I did a compression test and it was extremely even and good across the board.

I need to know what else to get along with the kit.

I know I need a TPS switch (does the same thing as a WOT switch?)

A window switch.

Fuel pressure Safety switch

Bottle heater.

I am going to run around a 100 wet shot. What else should I invest in.

I hear a ignition box to retard the timing. What one should I purchase and is it needed?

Plugs - What ones for a L98?

Anything else I am missing?
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Old May 30, 2005 | 01:56 AM
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unknown_host's Avatar
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
I think a window switch is a waste of money on a car with an automatic, but that's just me.
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Old May 30, 2005 | 02:00 AM
  #3  
mike1986fyrbird's Avatar
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From: Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 357ci Stealth Ram - Under Pressure
Transmission: Built 700r4/Pro Yank 3400 Extreme
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.27
As long as I flip the switch after 2500rpm I should be ok?
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Old May 30, 2005 | 02:57 PM
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unknown_host's Avatar
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by mike1986fyrbird
As long as I flip the switch after 2500rpm I should be ok?
What kind of torque converter do you have? Yeah 2500-3000 rpm is usually the rule of thumb, but if you have even a 2000 stall it is going to flash a lot higher with your added torque on the bottle.
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Old May 30, 2005 | 05:38 PM
  #5  
mike1986fyrbird's Avatar
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From: Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 357ci Stealth Ram - Under Pressure
Transmission: Built 700r4/Pro Yank 3400 Extreme
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.27
The torque converter is stock. Is it worth the investment to pick a higher stall up? What is an OK stall for daily driving.. how much do they run? I have a set of nitto 555r drag radials ariving in a week.
The transmission was recently rebuilt and I am going to install a shift kit soon.

I am still curious as to which ignition box I need. Is timing retard required or can I just get the MSD 6AL or should I get the Digital box with timing retard?
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Old May 30, 2005 | 07:39 PM
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Flyte risk's Avatar
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Car: 85 IROC
Engine: tree-oh-five
Transmission: 700, but the T-56 is laying on the floor
For a 100 wet shot ignition retard isn't really needed, just insurance against a bad tune. Still better to have it.

For a ignition box I'd give serious consideration to the Mallory 685. It's a digital box with retard, rev limiter, RPM, and RPM window switches built in. Nothing else to buy, not even RPM pills. The real bonus is it's about $10 cheaper then the MSD 6AL by itself without the extra rpm switches. Wire it up right, flip one switch to arm the system the box will do the rest at the programmed rev's and it can be wired to only pull out timing when the nitrous is actually being sprayed.

For plugs use autolite 22, 23 or equiv non-platnuim
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Old May 30, 2005 | 08:11 PM
  #7  
mike1986fyrbird's Avatar
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From: Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 357ci Stealth Ram - Under Pressure
Transmission: Built 700r4/Pro Yank 3400 Extreme
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.27
I was thinking about a mallory box too.
Any idea where I'd be able to get this?
I'd prefer someplace in Canada.
Canadian tire only has the Mallory 6852M which is the same as the MSD 6A. (no timing retard/rev/etc)
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Old May 31, 2005 | 12:45 AM
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Flyte risk's Avatar
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Car: 85 IROC
Engine: tree-oh-five
Transmission: 700, but the T-56 is laying on the floor
Summit, jegs or similar. Mallory's part # is 685 www.centuryperformance.com has it for about the same price.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 01:41 PM
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transam86ta's Avatar
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From: waco,tx
Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
hello i am joey a window switch is a need part when sraying nitrous auto or stick and the reason is if you trans where to slip and you hit a riv limter it is going to cut fuel and cause you to go lean and that will kill your engine and you will also need a fuel pressure safty switch as a helper so if you lose fuel pressure it will kill the nitrous so you dont go lean.

Last edited by transam86ta; Jun 10, 2005 at 04:29 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 04:30 PM
  #10  
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From: Waco TX
Engine: 94Z28
Originally posted by unknown_host
I think a window switch is a waste of money on a car with an automatic, but that's just me.
About 10 years ago I would have said the same thing for an automatic car.

After years of nitrous tech help and installing systems I say this is the most needed Nitrous accessory on the market.

If your tranny is an auto and it were to slip you would hit revlimiter cutting fuel supply.No fuel BOOM.Also this will keep you from spraying under to low of a RPM keeping you from bogging the car and having a nitrous backfire.

The same with a standard but more critical because its to easy to miss a gear.

I say do it right because if you cant afford a 100 dollar part then you probley do not have the money to build a motor.

Dave

Last edited by Nitro Dave; Jun 10, 2005 at 04:32 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 12:58 AM
  #11  
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 91' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 388 ci Small block CHEVY (4.060x3.75), Dart Iron Eagle Platinum 200cc, Performer intake, 454 TBI, Long Tubes, True Dual 3" GPs
Transmission: 700R4, B&M, Governer Recal, 20,000 GVW cooler
Get and AIR/FUEL Ratio gauge! At WOT with your bottle on it should be rich, not slightly rich, rich!

Mechanical WOT switch, I built mine from radio shack components.

100 hp is MAX safe on your stock V8, so don't get greedy.

WTF is a window switch, I don't know that lingo
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 06:25 AM
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Dewey316's Avatar
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by TWICEtheRICE
WTF is a window switch, I don't know that lingo
RPM activated switch, it turns on and off at given RPMs, so you the nitrous will only go if you are above the turn on RPM (say 2500), then you set the turn off RPM to the max RPM you want the nitrous going at, say 6k. so the system is only working between that RPM 'window'.
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 01:21 PM
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From: Chicago
Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: Built TH-700 R4 (Vilgilante 2800)
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ PBR's
What kinda boxes are you guys running? I want to be safe as possible.

Kevin
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 01:57 PM
  #14  
Free Bird's Avatar
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
MSD digital 6+
Doesn't have a window switch built in though.
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 08:12 PM
  #15  
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From: Chicago
Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: Built TH-700 R4 (Vilgilante 2800)
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ PBR's
Which does have one built in?

Kevin
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