So I am trying to stiffen this thing to eliminate belt slip. I am running TPI serp brackets. This sets the head unit WAY of to the right. this is a weekend toy car. So I am thinking of solid motor mounts and a turn buckle from the bracket to the inner fender. Thoughts?

 

We require pics.

 

I would only do that if your running a motor plate and mid plate. the trans mount will still flex, my motor moves a bit even with solid mounts .

 

Damn...

Pics coming soon

 

Have you tried calling Larry at ASSC Racing (http://www.asscracing.com/)? He made some additional brackets to stiffen the D1SC / F1A bracket used in the TPI kit. Your other option if belt slip is really that bad is go to a cog belt setup like I did.

 

Did you look at my build? or did you came up with some own ideas?

 

i use a bracket that goes from the j bracket on my ls1 setup to an oil pan bolt thats empty .

 

The pieces ASSC sold were similar. A bracket from the bottom of the bracket to the block near the crank pulley and a second bracket from the upper outer end of the bracket to a header bolt. The center section of the Procharger TPI bracket is pretty stable with the provided bolts.

 

I guess I will just go the ASSC bracket route. I have talked to Larry several times and he said he will not sell the cog setup to people that do not have double keyed big block snouts on their cranks, he said liability is way too high. In his words, "every single one breaks" sooner out later. I have the 12 rib setup. He said with his brackets, I should be able to pull 16 psi easy. I just want 14 or so.

 

Anyone think it is better to just ditch the tpi brackets and go with the Procharger SBC brackets?

 

I never had the tpi brackets, but I do have the SBC brackets with my D1SC and a 12 rib belt. Bracket flex is a non issue. However, I did have to get creative with the intake.

 

where do you want to see 14 psi? i'm running the d1sc on the tpi brackets with an 8 rib and i make 14 psi

 

I guess I should say i want to see 14 psi on MY motor. Depending on your motor your psi with a certain setup will be different. I have a 390 with fairly good flowing Trickflow heads and full length headers.

Either way, post pics people!

Just got off the phone with Procharger,...... no help. They even said if I run their SBC bracket I would need to brace it! I thought that was nuts.

 

I guess their enginees/support have got a taste of real life experiance with their old SBC kits

Picture of your engine bay?

 

This was a long time ago, but these are similar to the brackets I have right now. I have the added brace to the alt.



This was about a year or more ago. I will take some pics tonight and post up so you can see how things lay now. I will also show you how close the inner fender is to the head unit. Can't even slide my pinky beween the two.

Clearly the TPI brackets place the unit way off to the side and that is the problem.

 

Is he still making those brackets? I tried contacting him and haven't gotten an answer yet.

 

Don't know. The last time I contacted him about parts was over 4 years ago when I was building my 92.

 

Well first thing is to get a spring loaded tensioner and skip the idler pulley closest to the crank.

Use the stock tensioner to get more belt wrap.

I had it like this for a while until I changed blower pulley and then the spring loaded tensioner made the belt go together snapped the belt, bent the 2 of the long bracket bolts and snapped the third almost hit the steering wheel with my forehead when it happed

then I made the bracket holder I use now, rock solid

The al "blower bracket" I have now is a result of

- the ATI one was bigger than It needed to be due to not using all idler pulleys
- Had an idea of how to get even more belt wrap

and main reason have IC, tubes, crank spacer/pulley and so on laying around so didnt want to destroy the ATI so I could sell almost a complete kit if my worked...

 

made these both this one took the longest to make had to keep bending it to get to the right angle i needed without bending the tube this one is an old ac bracket of a serp setup that i heated and bent and just used two pieces of scrap to make the "L" bracket to match

 

Great idea, I have done of those old brackets. As for assc, I called a year ago and he said he could still make them.

 

Great, I'll try and get a set off of him then.

 

Yes its a tight fit....

The thirdgens have offset engine mounts so the engine should sit 0,5-1" more to the pass.side. Something to check if you have clearence problems.

 

My F1 hits the driver side wheel well when the engine torques. I found engine bay paint on the head unit and a bald spot under the head unit. It had clearly hit it and made the paint chip off. maybe once I make some additional brackets, this flex will go away. I may also just make the area and pound the inner fender in a bit to give me piece of mind.

 

I run a F1A with the serpentine bracket. The head unit itself isn't even close to hitting the body but the rubber hose to the intercooler does. Some day I'll try to reroute away from the fender routing Procharger uses but it isn't that big an issue for me right now.

 

Can you take some pics? Maybe close up of the head unit as well as the overall system?

 

I got ahold of assc. He said to use those brackets, I have to send them in my procharger bracket and they modify it to accept the brackets. He also said that they delete the lower idler pulley. Is that a good idea having it removed? How do you make up for the removal of that pulley?

 

There is a big force pulling that idler pulley straight down causing the bracket to flex.

Think of it like the belt will be as straight as possible between the blower and crank pulley and all the pullies that keeps the belt higher than that line will be forced downwards, and since tha bracket is designed like it is it will bend... clear as mud?

 

when you change to a 12 rib or cog set up that lower pully is eliminated since that's where you mount your lower anti flex bracket too

 

You should run something like this. I forget if this is what Larry does or if Its a diff. setup.

I can't find the picture Im looking for.

 

What about engine movement?

 

I'm guessing solid motor mounts on that car

 

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...8/viewall.html

Found the link.

The owner is a member here. I forget his name. Will do some diggging as We talked about that bracket before. Ive called Robbie the guy who did it ad talked to them about one for my novi2000 also.

http://www.corvettemasters.com/new/aboutus.html

 

Even solid motor mounts move. I considered solid ones with front and rear motor plates, and the tech at wolfe racing said there would still be too much flex for a mount like that.

 

Yeah that makes sense. I wanted to add the 12 rib set up to my car as well but they said they couldn't find it available for my application when I made the order. Is there really that much of a difference in stepping up to the 12 rib over the 8?

 

Yeah, 4 more ribs! Lol. Jk I have never run both back to back so not sure.

 

well 12 over 8ribb is 50% more contact area for the belt it also takes alot more force before in strech.

I cant remember the formula for contact surface vs max torque it can transfer...

But the real key is to increase the wrap-angle when it comes to max torque transfer... it increases exp to the wrapangle so every degree counts here

 

So would these two parts be all that I need to swap over to the 12 rib set up since I will be having that lower pulley removed for the support brackets? Also, is the main bracket the same for the 12 rib as the 8 rib? I plan on adding a spring loaded tensioner too as seen in the one thread on here.

http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-DC009...DC009A-012.htm

http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-DPxxx...ATI-DPxxxx.htm

 

Well thats for a LT1... Not sure if they use the same offset as the TPI.

I posted my 12rib part.nbr in another post....

 

Anyone have any other examples of a stiffer TPI bracket setup or the SBC bracket showing fitment? Suprised there are really no good pictures. From what I understand the SBC bracket works better, but you need to run v-belt PS and Alt. What pullies? are they in front or in back of the crack SC pulley?

Just looking for more detail on other strong setups. if I have to pay a little more for something that would just bolt up, I will. Just don't want something to be a maybe.

 

Maybe I just like to build stuff, but why not move the alt to the smog pump location and move the blower more inboard. Flex is coming from the blower being way off to the side attached to a bracket thats held to another bracket. With the blower more inboard (custom plate of course) there are plenty of cyl head and intake bosses to brace to

KISS

 

^^^ This

 

I agree. I just don't want to invest into something custom that might not work. If someone out there already has a tested and proven setup that can be bought... why reinvent the wheel?

 

Why wasnt your car good enough for you stock?

 

Function is compromised by ease of installation. What does the carb bracket look like vs tpi?

 

Some wheels need reinventing

Check out the European fellow that rebuilt the whole alt/blower bracket assembly from plate steel to address the flex issue. I don't see how any retrofit bracket from another platform will help any more than a custom plate

While you're in there rethink the crank pulley stack. The more inboard you move the blower pulley, the better. I never have liked the add on pulleys spaced a foot from the front main in the name of a simpler bracket

 

yeah, sometimes I think of rebuild the whole setup moving the alt and servo to pass side and move the blower pulley direkt to the balacer, that would be nice....If it's possible or not I dont know yet, haved really investigated it