Been working hard last month getting car up and running and fixing minor issues. Finally felt good enough last weekend to street drive tune and eventually spent 2 hrs on the dyno. Only had my 7 psi spring in the gate so we only saw 8psi on dyno and controller only acheived 17 psi. We made 770whp and stopped for the day. Changed oil, did a few maintenance changes, added a fuel pressure sensor and hit it up hard today with new wastegate springs. Saw 14psi on springs and was able to crank up to 24.5 psi before stopping with the goal in mind, 4 digit power numbers!

Enjoy! This is my 401 on plain jane 93 oct pump gas. No meth, no race gas mix, no water inj, nothing else added. Treadstone 1300hp intercooler, 45 deg F rise in temps at 24 psi. 1018 uncorrected 1009 sae 1034 std

Props to LonnieP at Lonnies Performance for the dual intank walbros fuel system and all his help gettin this system running great and supporting this power. Honestly didnt think i'd get there but he kept sayin it will be fine

 

Great numbers the kind i have been waiting to see you make! Will be awesome to see the kill tune eventually but getting it down the track will be the next challenge probably.

 

I dont think i want to push this shp block past 1100. Maybe 1200 on glory pull but i am on dangerous ground i think

If i can get car down a few lbs and make 1200 on a race gas kill pass, it may go 7.99

 

infukinsane! lol nice pull

 

Nice work! It'll fly! What's the most power you've driven it with?

 

I've briefly played with 770 last week... Lol no idea how another 230 will feel but its winter now, doubt i'll have the weather to take it out again. Too cold it will never hook

 

sick. congrats!!

 

great job . can't wait to see track times .

 

Well done. What's next?

 

Well thinkin it needs parachute mount and a meth kit for safety. Other than that i aint touching it lol its staying as is to enjoy it. I think i am near the limit on fuel pumps and block strength

I need to tuck ecm and wire in reverse lights still but thats minor issues

Waiting til spring time to race. I'm gonna need to save up for a good 15" wheel tire package for rears. Doubt these 19's will do well past 700 whp

 

Isn't that the truth. Although I'm almost relieved that winter has arrived and the car distraction can take a rest. It can take a lot of resources to keep a project moving along.

 

Congrats... glad to see you hit your power goals.

The weather ruined your chances to try it out... nothing like seeing a few inches of snow this morning.

 

Well i have an iron 370" ls3 clone I'm wanting to work on for my 99 car and new header/dual exhaust for that car as well. Nice to change it up for once...been working on the Irocz for way to long.

Next year it will be dialing in the suspension and transbrake to launch this ride. For now I dont plan to exceed 17 psi on pump gas, as that should get me low low 9's as is. Need to start off on low boost and ramp in the high boost to keep traction on 19's. WHen i'm ready to go all out, i'll have to switch to the 15" wheels. Should be fun, but I gotta keep it 1/8 mile I think until its launchin good. Car isnt legal to run the times it can now, and I'm not putting in a 10 pt cage yet. So gotta wait for the glory pass when its finally launching well.

 

Yeah in this cold my 315/35/17" Hoosier DR's don't hook with half the power.. 15's are a must! my old 275/60/15's hooked to a 1.41 60ft... These 315/35/17's went 1.77 ONCE.. Last track outing went a 1.89 best.. Absolutely crappy no matter what I do to them.

I run a 375 ml/min meth nozzle(about 6gph).. Never tuned for it, just added it.. I think it helps cool things a bit and adds a touch of octane. You will probably have a custom kit made to maximize power though i'd assume.

 

From what I've seen, i'm pushing the limits of the rotating assembly and block now haha. Maybe not the crank but its close. Rods should be ok but its always a crapshoot when manufacturers give very conservative ratings. My rods are rated at 850. One builder said they finally bent at 1950 hp so I dont feel 1200-ish is pushing them.

If I do meth i'll add just enough to stabilize temps for the summer air and keep it somewhat safe. I dont really want or need it for power My summer temps will approach 150 and timing will be pulled after 130 so I want the meth to keep things around 120-130 max.

 

Wow that's pretty awesome man and on just 93 pump gas with no E85 or meth either! How did your timing table look like with that run? Seems like you afr was around the 11's the whole way too.

Anyways it's been a pleasure watching your car grow over the years and now to this monster, definitely keep up the good work

 

Im impressed as well, 1000+ on pump gas is pretty good, even with higher than desirable IAT temps.

 

IAT was 90 deg on 24psi. NIce that it was very cold out that day.

Timing was 22 deg ALot higher than I figured but it worked. Car likes a flat curve. From like 12-19 psi it was like 25 deg. More didnt help the lower boost levels.

 

AWESOME JOB !!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Congrats man! Those are some awesome numbers

Jay

 

Congrats! That is an awesome milestone to hit!

 

I hit 20 lbs on the street tonight. This is the funnest and scariest thing at the same time i have ever experienced lol

 

all i can say is wow ... i didnt even know nasa made rockets in that shape hahaha

 

we need in car vids under boost ...

 

Lol its snowing now. Its cold enough that tires are very difficult to hook lol and its fast enough to require 2 hands on the wheel. I'll have to figure something out. It will snap the speedo from a 65 roll in a few seconds lol

 

So so............AWESOME! Congrats man!

 

That is Badass! (with a capital B) You are in a club of very few people. Job well done!!!

Really like that fact that you have kept it stock looking as possible esp. with no roll cage.

 

Well it has a roll bar but no cage. May add a chute mount but no point in that if they dont let me run with no cage lol.
Other than that its stock body but big cowl and bigger wheels. I think the car is hot strong modern aggressive look with even more aggression under the hood

Thanks for the support! Been a long road last few years getting to where i am today

 

Gotta love that feeling.... The buttdyno works!

 

Congrats dude... killer IROC ready for pretty much anything. Doesnt get any better than that!

 

As you can see you do not have to go to the dark side to make power. Meaning he does not have a heaven sent LSX under the hood LOL. But I know he still has a LS ECM, add why not technology is good. But like I said before you don't always have to resort to going LSX to make power. Congrats Orr.

 

Impressive numbers on 93 octane. The attention to detail in choosing the rotating assy, heads, cam paid off.
Do you have an RPM dyno sheet? Where does it spool at?

Looking back now and how much it cost to build.........would you have gone with an LQ4 to start with or still go the GEN1 route? It has been shown a stock or mild cam LQ4 will produce 1200 BHP at your boost level, but requires better fuel than just 93 octane. So looking back now, which way would you have gone?

It was mentioned that Gen3/4 PCMs are good for a technology improvement. That is true for electronics, but a mechanical technology improvement is also good so going with Gen 3/4 engines makes sense too.

 

You know i have been thinking about this alot as all my buds and tuner are lsx guys. All stock gm type motors with maybe new rings and rod bolts, some dont even change that. Its hard to say what a mild 6.0 lq build would do thru this drivetrain. Looking at my cycle duty, at my pressures, and some other known drivetrain losses from other engine builders, this build is between 1200-1300 hp at flexplate.
Example is my friends 775 whp t56 car which is known to be 15% loss, he went th400 and made 689. Spray another 100 shot on top of that 250 he already had and it went 758whp. Thats a 950 hp flywheel car. But hard to say

Looking at the amount of money into this build vs a 1200$ gm jy takeout, if you upgraded the rods and pistons even, could it make the same steam? Well maybe...maybe not? The investment may have been cheaper for fairly basic ls build. Lsx 11-15 deg heads are very potent power makers. Cant argue with their efficiency. And what guys have been doin with stock truck motors is downright impressive. Alot of them are living longer than expected.

And to be honest even tho i have strong internals, they could be better and some even say i am pushing limits. However i have references for these shp blocks surviving a season of 1259 flywheel hp and these rods bending at over 1900 hp. Your mileage may vary but dart rates shp at 600 lol and callies compstar h rods rate to 850hp.

We have a local guy building a twin 76 mm 6.0 based build in a notch fox that wants my dyno record. My tuner says he should make 950 at 22 lbs. he has a tighter converter tho and that could make the difference. My tuner has had several stock 5.3 builds last 600-700 whp in 4500 lb truck.

Now i always felt best with sbc. Its what i know. The first turbo build was suppose to use parts off my 383 and then it spiraled out of control where i bought all new stuff. If i had a blank chalkboard so to speak, theres a good chance i could have been convinced to go lsx.
I'd still want it built right and strong but theres a good chance a relatively mild bottom end could easily do what i have done, just becomes a question of how long will it last? 6.0 block has shown to do very impressive things

So yeah its a very tough choice for me, i want to stick with what i grew up on and be different from my local crew but my pockets no longer can keep up with what budget lsx stuff can do haha

 

This is amazing. I'm sure it took big bags of money and even more work. No one can legitimately say you should have gone the LS route when you show them 1018 HP!

 

Kinda apples to oranges.

The two big cons for the traditional SBC is weak factory block, and poor flowing head design. For example, my GM 400 block will probably absolutely explode at 800hp.. An LSx block will take it and more. To flow over 300cfm at moderate (mid .500s lift) I need top of the line AFR 210cc heads. Stock GM LSx heads will flow 300 cfm with a touch up.

I've got three times more money in machine work, special rotating assembly, and heads than a pull-out junkyard LSx (LQ4 perhaps) that woulda probably made more power and been stronger.

Food for thought.

My next engine will be a 6.0 LQ4. Cam it, drop it in, and turn up the boost. Make 800+ hp.. If it explodes, get another one for $1000 or less.

-- Joe

 

My interest is to see if this thing will last. At this power level i should be running even more expensive block and internals. Ls 6.0 iron blocks i have read have issues at 1200-1300 hp, right about where i may be at on crank. So if i wanted an ls over 1200 i may want to consider internals and block strengthening, if possible. Steel caps? Different bolts/studs? Not sure what it takes to make that much power reliable but i have seen many 1000 whp setups on stock blocks so its doable. Oh well, sbc is what i like and familiar with. On good gas and more boost i probably could make 1300 whp

 

Very well done!

 

This is probably the most amazing thing I have ever seen when it comes to anything automotive. The fact your third gen Camaro could easily throw more rwhp then a brand new Bugatti which has 1,180 makes my jaw drop. This thing has more power then almost any super car i can think of and from what I read there's still possibilities of improvement!

Call me nosy but I'm just curious. Buying the parts, getting it together and getting the kinks out how much do you think you've put in this set up?

Again. This is my idol Camaro. As an 18 year old do it yourselfer this is just mind bottling.

 

Motor and turbo system itself, guessing 20-25k. Rest of the car, alot more. Know what i know now, probably could have done this power for abit less using cheaper heads but these leave room for growth and are bad ***. I know about what i've spent on it from day i got it til now with the various engines and parts that have been in the car and i could have bought a z06 haha

In the end its just a powerful 80's thirdgen....nothing to special compared to exotics

 

I've been thinking about the head thing lately as well, thinking I shoulda went with cheaper lower performing heads since it's a blown motor.

I've got about 21k total into my build since March 2012, so that's not too bad. That's including all the materials I used to paint the car, suspension, brakes, etc.

I still don't know what I want to do with the car. It's got enough power to be a decent track car, but with the 5spd it wouldn't be a very effective bracket racer. If I put an automatic in it I wouldn't enjoy driving it on the street..

-- Joe

 

Yeah i hear you. You need a shp block to reliably push big numbers. I went 9's on afr 195's which are small heads. Relatively cheap and simple compared to others out there. I should have tried either the 220's or chad's import 227 heads which would have been 1800-ish or so. Instead i went much more exotic and needed closer to 3500 for heads and shaft rockers all said and done. Could have reached my goals cheaper i think

 

How about this question. Is 1000+ HP too much for the street? I know you probably need that much for the drag strip. The highest HP car I have driven is a 02 Z06 with slicks on an auto-x course.

 

I built a 90ish fox mustang for a guy several years ago and it was 1500 to the wheels. He still daily drives it. cruise, tilt A/C power windows/locks..
Drove it around for a week and if you drive it normal, its just like a normal car. It just passes cars a lil faster when needed.

 

Off throttle it drives like an overstalled cammed 305 lol on throttle at 800whp-850whp its useless under 55 mph in 3rd and useless in any gear under 3rd at any speed at any power over 600whp. But its been coold when testing. Summer streets will help

Have yet to try over 800's whp yet

So yeah turbo cars are fine on street. Just dont get into boost or dial it back. My car sits at 650-ish whp off controller and one switch brings it to 800-1000 if needed. So its a blast.

 

Hey Orr, I noticed in your 24x conversion thread you were having intermittent starting trouble related to the cam position sensor. Did you ever resolve the issue?

I am running the 24x conversion on my 406 as well and had the same problem with the same DTC's. My supplied cam position sensor was actually dead on arrival. I replaced it and the new one didn't work either. Re-checked my wiring and found I made a mistake. After I corrected the wiring, I still had the DTC's. Bought another new one and haven't had a problem since.

The cam position sensors are supposed to be magnetic and the first one was not. Dead on arrival. The second probably was fouled up because of my wiring mistake and also no longer magnetic. Both replacements were genuine ACDelco sensors. Anyway, you may want to check the sensor and double check the wiring.

The sensor is only used during starting, the PCM uses it to determine which stroke the cylinders are on, compression or exhaust. If no signal is present, it will assume compression. If it doesn't start, the PCM assumes the opposite stroke. The intermittent backfiring or stumbling is the result of the PCM assuming the wrong stroke and firing 180 degrees out of time.

BTW... absolutely insane build you have there and I am definitely jealous

 

No never checked it. I had those codes and then they disappeared. Trouble starting was odd but it always eventually fired.

One day it stopped firing all together. I checked car over and did find a loose crank sensor bolt in the plastic cover. Had to epoxy the knurled insert in and held tight but still no start. I checked the cam sensor dizzy and all appeared correct. Issue turned out to be fouled plugs, the wideband o2 was wrong. Said 14.7:1 but really was more like 12.0. Replaced plugs and it started fine. I'll keep an eye on the sensors tho.

May be making some changes to exhaust and fuel pumps, may add meth kit. Kinda want to see 1200 whp. Should be 5-6 psi more boost as long as i have cooling and fuel pumps

 

Nice.. Maybe ill see you at the Pittsburg track this year once i get mine up and running

 

Scramblin to finish my exhaust in time for opening day. Gonna start out small to test transbrake and i'll be on my 19's dr's so not expecting much. Just gonna break it in abit, see what kind of 1/8 mile it does working boost up. Wont make a full pass til i get launch figured and good tires lol. Gonna get kicked out for no cage

 

I have along way to go. Right now my engine is tore down and my engine bay is gutted and stripped to bare metal. Im swapping in a 4l80E because im sick of breaking 700r's.looking at the fast xfi sportsman because i wanna do an ls turbo swap next year. So im shooting for early may to be running

 

im going to be that guy...

if you dont have a cage and that much power. dont ****ing run it. even worse that you wont be able to get the power down to do anything useful. seen too many people hurt doing that crap.