T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

I took the T-tops off for the first time in years today and was immediately greeted by an old friend...rust. The T-top bar has it the worst, but that can be replaced so I'm not too worried about it. However, I am worried about the rust I have in one of the J channels on the passenger side because two 1" sections of the lip that the seal goes under have totally rotted away. For now my plan is to hit the rusted J-channel area with a wire wheel to clean it up and see where I am. The majority of the lip still seems to be pretty solid but I won't know until I get the rust off. I'll post pictures of that when I get an opportunity to clean up the affected area. In the meantime, what can I do about those two sections of the channel that have rusted away? Also, can anyone recommend a good brand of weatherstripping?

Here's one:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...05e9079b52.jpg

Here's the other:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...45429ac8a1.jpg

It's hard to see, but it has not rusted through the metal underneath the lip
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...92c0602ed6.jpg

With the exception of the front passenger side channel, everything else seems to be in pretty good shape

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...49e9169fc6.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...5394b173c2.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...6b2f22389d.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...697d985ea1.jpg

There's no saving this though
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...d747506ebd.jpg

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

I just answered someone else asking about the same thing in a PM, so I'll just copy it here;

"Most of the time the problem is a hole rusted through the body under/behind the seal, and that is how the water is getting in. When GM designed the T-Tops they neglected to provide a path for water to escape from between the seal and the body, so over time it just rots its way through. When I redid my T-Tops I found I had several holes, the largest being over 3" long and over 1/4" high along the rear of the passenger side T-top rail. The seal itself worked fine, but any water would get between the seal and the body, flow into the hole and soak the headliner before pouring into the back seat. I found several smaller holes in the rest of the rails, and the front passenger corner was thoroughly crunchy with rust. To fix it all, I used a wire wheel to remove all the paint and rust down to bare metal, then used gap filling foam to fill in the larger holes and let that cure overnight, trimming it flush the next day with a razor blade. Then I used 2 part metal epoxy (the gray putty stuff in a tube) to fix the holes and let it cure, then sanded it flush with the rest of the metal. Then 2 layers of self etching primer, then 2 of filler primer, sanding and painting. I also replaced my center bar with a junkyard one as the original had completely rusted away to crumbly flakes. This went in, then the new (junkyard) seals got glued in with weatherstrip adhesive, then black 2-hr rain-ready silicone (kitchen/bath) was put in between them and the body in 2 passes; the first with the seal pulled back, the second pass on top of the first and I let the seal squeeze and excess out as the nozzle went along, then wiped everything up with paper towels. The end result is the seal has RTV going from it to the body with no opportunity for water to get between between the seal and body. The only mistake I made is I should have also coated the bottom of the new center bar with RTV, because in hard rain I still get a small leak at the front of the bar from water getting in around it. The only other spot I still get rain at all is on the inside of the driver side window where the seal and A-pillar meet, but that is more due to improper window alignment and not the seals. I hope this helps!

BTW if you do pull a junkyard set or re-use yours, the hardest part is pulling them without damaging them. All I can suggest is use a good metal putty knife, go SLOW, and don't pull on the seal while removing it as much as you can. They tear incredibly easy, especially with age, but they can be removed intact. Given the cost of new replacements, it's at least worth looking for a decent used set."

As for repairing the damaged channels, I used the same epoxy to replace/repair any chunks that were too crunchy to salvage. After I was done wire wheeling the channels it was clear there was extensive corrosion throughout, and I spent the better part of two days filling holes and rebuilding with the epoxy. This was all done over 5 years ago now, and to date still no leaks. Your channels are abut half as bad as mine had been, and my center bar was completely rotted. The only thing holding the two side pieces on was the three screws on each, and the glue underneath was holding the center piece in place. I highly recommend doing what I said above about slathering the bottom of the new piece with 2-hr rain ready kitchen/bath black silicone before installing the new center bar. All of the problems with leaking in these cars is from water rotting its way through the metal, and in the exception of actual damage to the seals (tears/rips) they are rarely the cause. Keeping the water out from behind/under the seals and forcing it to drain off the body does wonders to curing the issues and preventing cancer on 3rd gens.

There are numerous sources for seals, none are cheap for T-top cars, sadly.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

if you go the epoxy route, POR makes an epoxy designed for window channel repairs that I've had some luck with in the past.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

Here's what I ended up doing. I wire wheeled all the rust off, tacked on some strips of new metal along the channel lip where it was still solid, put some seam sealer on it, then primed and painted. It's not the prettiest solution, but it should work ok and it'll be covered up by the weatherstripping anyway.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...4fad8244fb.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...edf5fc2805.jpg

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

That looks good!

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

Sub'd

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

*See above*

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

83Chimaera, I'll be following your weatherstripping install advice to a t when I get around to doing it. I just need a full day that I can devote to it.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

That solution should work out fine. My body guy had to do the same thing when my car was painted.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

When you say tacked on, how did you do it? And where'd you get the metal?

Have similar issues on mine...

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

subd

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

:yup:

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

I actually resolved this using fiberglass sheeting and POR15


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...9bfe11248.jpeg




https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...edcf005b2.jpeg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...37cca522a.jpeg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...8577f5cf2.jpeg

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

i'm going the metal route, i measured he thickness and its about .078 to .080 so that's approx 14 gauge metal. I cant seem to source any locally yet but i'm "steel" searching...

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

Attachment 322142

Attachment 322143

Attachment 322144

Attachment 322145

Attachment 322146

Attachment 322147



Attachment 322148

Cut out and replace. You do it once and you're done with it. With good sealer and correct primer it'll last for years. With new rubber up there you should also have a nice tight fit with the tops and no draughts or leaks.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

Where did you get those panel strips??

Attachment 322140

Attachment 322141

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

id like to know as well

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

x2

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

That's not the way to do it. That will actually promote rust, so unless your car never leaves the garage, you are going to end up with a much bigger problem than you had before.

^^^That is the proper way.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

very nice work
mine is the same

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

How come?

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

Barryv8, ok, where did you get the channels at. Looks like the correct method - I know that repair is in my immediate future. Thx Byron/buickstaged

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

I also need new channels and the ones BarryV8 put in look outstanding.... How much for a set? :D

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

You basically just covered up the rust. The metal is badly pitted, moisture will get under the POR15 and the fiberglass. The moisture will be held in there by the POR15 and fiberglass, speeding up the rust process. By the time the POR is bubbled and the fiberglass is coming off and you realize there's a problem, all the metal will be gone from behind it.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

I'd guess Barry had the channels made at a fabrication shop of some kind, like custom ductwork. Barry?

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

Yes, the channels front and rear were bespoke made by a specialist. My understanding is that several sets were done as a group purchase for a bunch of 3rd gen owners. They'll fit Firebirds and Camaros. I'll try and dig up contact info and post it on this thread for anyone who is curious.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

Yes please post the contact info Barry. I would do a group purchase with anyone else that is interested.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

That would be awesome!

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

I'd be interested as well.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

Hate to be a pest.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

I get what you are saying... which basically amounts to POR15 doesn't work at all?

It literally advertises to do the opposite.

"POR-15® is a paint-like substance which acts as a total rust inhibitor and also very effective as a metal filler. Its consistency is approximately that of paint and it has very good spreadability (one quart covers 96 square feet). POR-15® chemically bonds to rusted steel to form a rock-hard, nonporous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It works by isolating metal from moisture; without moisture present, steel can't rust. Thin, covering coats are best. Apply second coat when first coat is dry to touch with slight "finger-drag" remaining. "

If water really can get under POR15. then yes, it was a waste of time.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

It works just fine for some things, but badly pitted sheetmetal isn't one of them. Those pits go all the way through, which is how the moisture gets in. The fiberglass doesn't help matters either. Once you have the moisture in there, the rust process continues and you have all that stuff in there between the body and the rubber... it just snowballs.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

Good explanation dude. Damn, yeah I forgot about it coming in through the back of the t-top rail - which is basically inaccessible to paint. I'm honestly more concerned now about that part than the channel strip - which honestly seems easy to replace - if you get one fabricated.

The other rust spots - I'll look at again in my before photos. The fiberglass I will definitely remove and sand out - then maybe re-POR.

Thanks for the advice

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

I got the sheet metal from Home Depot. I don't recall what gauge it was, but it was close enough in thickness for me. I just cut a strip off that was the same width as the original lip that's on there and had a welder friend tack it into place. I then used seam sealer to fill the gap where the the two pieces meet. What I did may or may not be the best way to do it, but I didn't feel that the rust on mine was severe enough to warrant replacing the entire channel like what BarryV8 did. Excellent work on that btw.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

We would love to get that contact information to order some sets.
Thanks Barry.:driving:

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

Email this company. They supply the channels all ready to weld in.

autofabricationdesign@gmail.com

They are bespoke made, come in pairs and are a direct replacement fit for Camaros and Firebirds. I recommend them.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...-channels.html

Another thread regarding the same issue I started yesterday.

Re: T-top channel rust - what should I do?
 

thanks for this info