3D printed parts
 

Anybody know of any small parts that could be designed and 3d printed? I enjoy modeling things and have made some stuff for thirdgens. There are also great things that people have designed such as the interior panel screws. Below are some of the things that I have designed.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3657284
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3612044

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Cool stuff Logan. Wish I had the knowledge and talent to do that.

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the sky is the limit. i’m sure there are some needed parts that no one yet reproduces

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I have a request. The 4 wing pads for the 91-92 z28.
They are 1/8 plastic and pretty much turn to dust but are a must to keep the spoiler off the rear quarters. Should be easy to print.

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Intresting! I have a 91 rs but it has a z28 spoiler on it. Would it attach to the spoiler, and then touch the quarters when the hatch is closed? If you have any pictures, it will help.

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Someone (I thought cehbra) had started a repro Performance Sound badge for the dash, but I can't seem to find that thread, or the file on thingiverse.

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The little seat belt guide retainer things. They are little balls that hold the ends of the guide together to keep the belt in the loop. There was a thread of someone making them, but I can't find it now.

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I second this request.

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If either of you fellas can get me some pictures of them and/or dimensions, I can try and make something work.

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There is an isolator pad that sits under each of the legs of the high rise spoiler.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...bedb273c16.png

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I get you some pictures of them

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With the correct dimensions, those would be extremely easy to mill. Much faster than printing, and better polymer, that will last much longer.

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https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...-z28-high.html

This thread has some further info on the isolator pads.

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I have a bunch of the firebird ones sitting around, I'll look at one of the wings later (I have 2 or 3 with the pads still on them in the basement) but I remember them being 1/16-1/8" thick plastic with 2 bolt holes and a drain hole through it. They also have a lip that goes around the wing base covering the bottom of it roughly the thickness of the pad under the base.

If this is how the Z28 wings ones were if anyone can get me an _accurate_* rubbing of the base of the wings or the originals and send them to me or a scan of them at a set DPI (let's say anything over 150) and some information about heights I could mock them up in CAD and print a few.

* accuracy is key. I could work off of a _good_ picture and "make it 8.5" long" and make it exactly 8.5" long but I suspect that to make things look right they'd have to be within .5-1mm, about 1/50-1/25" or .02-.04". At this point, rubbing with some information what the condition of the bottom edge was like scanned at a reasonable DPI is going to be about as accurate as we'll get online. If someone sent me some to duplicate I'd throw them on my flatbed scanner, import the scans into CAD software at the orignal size and then trace them/use them as a pattern in the CAD software to build up the new ones. I posted a similar process cutting out a modified alternator bracket to make a cs144 alternator (larger case, larger mounting dimensions) mount where I had an original alternator mounted, I started by taking my existing bracket and throwing it on a scanner to get a pattern for the parts that fit/I wanted to keep and drew up the rest.

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It also occurs to me that if these things originally had a lip on them, some of you might want them with the lip to make them look as close to stock as possible and some of you might want them without to get a cleaner look (though if that's what you're after the easy answer almost anyone could do is make a pattern and cut it out of a sheet of plastic, maybe sand the sides a little to make it perfect)...

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And this is exactly how it goes with people with these cars... there are things that a few people make a lot of noise "we need..." and "why doesn't..." but when it comes to follow through there isn't any... Oh well...

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You’re absolutely right sir, my apologies. I’m a UPS guy and have been getting home after dark for the past couple weeks. What type of paper/media should I do the rubbings on? There are studs that extend from the legs of the spoiler, should I punch accurate holes in the paper/media and then trace the legs? Just trying to figure out how to get the most accurate representation to make your process easier. I do have an extra spoiler that is sitting in my garage.

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https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...9457afc4ad.jpg
this is what they look like. Would need a spoiler to get the exact measurements.

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https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...441be66b4f.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...3193fccedb.jpg
YES! The plastic slider/latch cover on the tonneau cover for 87-88 convertibles and the the little plastic clips that hold the connecting rods together.

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Those isolators looks like they would be pretty simple to model. You could print them out of a UV stable nylon or something similar.

I've done some 3d modeling/printing on my C6 Corvette. I've been running one I printed out of ABS for almost a year now.
Example:Console Latch

I bought a 3rd gen a couple days ago after not having one for 15 years, so I imagine I'll be looking into the parts that are easily to model and print if I need to fix some things.

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Whatever you can get the most accurate representation of it with. The better/more accurate the dimensions are the better the part will be.

Any pics of the actual part? It seems to be that people are just modeling parts and putting them up on tingiverse to try to collect a few $. You see lots of parts that have never been made. In this case I wonder what orientation it would be printed in to look right and be strong where it needs to be, and mostly just what the finished part turned out like.

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I don't have a convertible, so I wouldn't have anything to measure from. However, as 83 Crossfire TA is saying, you scan them or do something similar.

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Below are a few pictures I have. These were some of the earlier pieces. I now print them standing on end which results in a stronger latch (at least where the force is concentrated) and a better/smoother surface finish.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...073e2fa021.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...532b63c5cd.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...94efe34072.jpg

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Hawks has an upgrade kit that converts the 87-88 latch to the 89-92 style so that may be the best way for you to go.
However, I do have an 88 convertible and live relatively close to you Logan if you want to take measurements.

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If there is enough interest in that, I'm sure we could figure something out.

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I have been in the process of designing some key chains that I thought would be cool. Pretty much just traced the side shot of a Camaro.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...d1ee5c9c4f.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...a8d39b60a6.png

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there's a tiny gear in the odometer of the firebirds that turns to dust so the odometer stops but everything else works. I've tried to pick one up a junk yard but it just falls apart as soon as I tried to swap it to my 140mph stock cluster. oddly I've never found a replacement or anyone even talk about this part. always thought it would be something I'd try to 3d print if I ever got one.

those under aero wing pad would be good to have

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Have you seen this thread, starting here?

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...ml#post6258810

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I have not, haven't checked into it for a few years. I'll read up, thanks for the link.

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I actually print quite a few keychains as promo items in the car community here in Quebec, among a bunch of third gen stuff.. If you're using the wheels as the clip point, make sure they're thick enough to hold up to abuse. Even PLA will come apart in short order if not. :)

Side question: what modelling software are you using? Fusion 360?

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I think that was my thread...not sure where it went. I've been making these for awhile and they seem to hold up pretty well. Flip me a PM if you want some.

Cehbra took a crack at it awhile back, but i can't remember where he go to with it. I started making them a few months ago along with double din trim plates in ABS, but some of the text is tricky to pull off on an FDM printer. I think it can be done with a couple small changes though.

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Actually when I started modeling, my piece of junk computer at the time wouldn't keep up with a cad program. So I resorted to a browser based program. Its called OnShape. Almost identical to Solidworks. I am a college student right now, so I hopped up on the student subscription. But I have been looking into getting a better program, since I got a better computer. I am most familiar with Solidworks, so I was hoping to find something similar without having to pay all that money.

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Checkout the hobby licence for fusion 360. I learned solidworks back in uni for engineering projects, but learned real quick how hostile Dassault is to non corporate customers. Once you student license runs out, you're on the hook for $4800/yr +$1500 mandatory maintenance licencing. I haven't looked back.

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I actually updated that Performance Sound badge some days ago, it's here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3702904

I'm in the process of printing it in fine detail plastic and paint it, I'll let you know how it turns out.

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I've spent a little time designing and 3D printing some parts. So far i've made an ashtray panel with switches and usb for aftermarket radios, a gauge pod that mounts in place of that light under the middle air vents, and a few other little parts such as some monting brackets and a MAF housing for Map conversions. Here is some pictures of the ashtray panel and gauge pod models.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...bad033244d.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...d141f63cfd.png

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Nice. What font did you end up using for the "Sound". I was able to get close with some exotic ones, but not a perfect match.

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I scanned the badge with a high resolution and mounted it as a canvas and then traced it with splines

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For our Pontiac Club chapter newletter, we use the Good Times font for the header. Looks very much like, if not identical to, the PONTIAC font.

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Sorry to be off topic but do any of you have insight / recommendations on how to get started with 3D printing?
I’m an architect and am familiar with autocad. I haven’t modeled anything in 3D with cad but I at least have the background of with envisioning things in 3 dimension. I’d love to learn how to make some items for my car but have no idea where to start. Is there a good forum or books to review before trying to figure out what programs and printer to use?
Thanks for any input. Feel free to PM me if this is too off topic and you don’t want to derail the thread.

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As you're familiar with Autocad you might want to take a look at Autodesk Fusion 360 which has a free non-commercial license

www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360

There are many tutorials on youtube to get you started easily.

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Thanks. I've been reading your threads for years and I can't say i'm surprised. Only way to get the best detail. :)

That's a rabbit hole this thread won't be able to cover. I'm working hard these days to turn 3D printing into full time employment (and stop working 2 jobs, lol) and can tell you it can be a huge investment depending on how deep you go. The barrier to entry has fallen substantially over the last few years as patents from the old guard manufacturers expire, with entry level machines available for a (relatively) modest price. You get what you pay for kind of thing though. Cehbra's right on fusion 360; the only CAD/CAM design software you'll need as a hobbyist.

I'd rather not derail the spirit of this thread, so feel free to send me a PM and i can answer some of those questions for you. :)

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Looks like a nicely modeled part, I've always wondered why that one is a popular one for people asking for reproductions. Honestly, I doubt that one will print well, I've had real problems printing fonts that are inset into a part, although a lot of the problems seem to be slicer related, not a printer limitation.

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With a 0.05 or 0.1 nozzle you can get close enough that it can be close enough with some post processing, but with the level of detail required it's more of a candidate for SLA printing and not FDM. The ribbed surface can't be reproduced on an FDM printer though.

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Has anyone created a model for the rear hatch strut covers?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...45f82dd4b5.png

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Haven't seen one yet, but it wouldn't be hard. I'm setting up a storefront over the coming weeks to make stuff like this available.

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I finally got the time to print out the headlight switch nut. Turned out pretty good and it actually works
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...0172ed3835.jpg

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Would like an RC/model car body of a formula, there is a knight rider on thinkverse but having a true to factory body would be cool.

I'm on the verge of buying one of the hobbyist CNC/laser engraver combo machines for a number of reasons.

I've thought about a ring that would go between the door panel and the arm rest that would hold down the covering of the arm rest to prevent it from pealing up if that makes sense.

The knobs on the AC panel but I doubt they would print smooth enough.

I have a 3d printed radio bezel already in my car :)

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im tryin to find someone to print me the double din bezel for a camaro. radio on bottom version. if anyone can do it for a reasonable price PM me please.

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I found 2nd-gen taillight nuts on Thingiverse. I haven't had a chance to look at them closely yet, but does anyone know how or whether this can be modified for 3rd gen?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3503126

(or if it's already a match?)

Thanks!

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Anybody know the dimensions for the guides for the power pull down? I'm just making them to stay in the same spot and not have the pull down feature.