Originally Posted by Night rider327 (Post 5996691)

Same goes for third gen and 4th gen cars, heck even second gens.

The same rear end was used with all engine combos, the only difference will be the gear ratios.

Most of the time the 6cyl cars got lower gears to make up for lack of torque from engine. So truth be told, for a performance based build it may be best to start with a good 6cyl. car rear end.

82-85 7.5", 26 spline axles
86-90 7.625" 26 spline axles
91-02 7.625" 28 spline axles

Originally Posted by 87zeder (Post 5996704)

Kool thanks... the v6 out the 4th gen still have higher gears then my 3rd gen but prob go 3.73 anyway

Originally Posted by JamesC (Post 5996706)

Just an FYI: no fourthgens were equipped with factory 3.73's (some thirdgens were so equipped 83-86, IIRC).

JamesC

Originally Posted by 87zeder (Post 5996708)

Yeah I knee that... think closest is 3.42??

Originally Posted by bk2life (Post 6093215)

How strong is the torsen rear? What brakes? axles? the torsen?

Originally Posted by green92 (Post 6140359)

Got a quick question. My dad got a rear from a 02 car. He acquired it in hopes of using it for another project. He has decided to do something different and asked if i wanted it. He doesn't know anything other than it's not limited slip and it has disc brakes. I'm gonna get it from him but wondered if it would be worth just swapping the disc onto my drum rear? Assuming the backing plates bolt up. My rear is drum and a 3:08. If this one is the same ratio as mine higher I'll swap the whole assembly. May seem pointless to most of you but my main thing is to be able to get disc on the rear and it's free so I'm entertaining the thought.

Originally Posted by beltran89 (Post 6141164)

Someone help needed! I think i found a good deal, please give me a insight for im only 19, on craiglist near me soneone is selling a g92 rear end with disc brakes, says comes with new brake pads, and e brake line, for 350. Ok price ? Good invedtment? For i have stock rear end and drum brakes

Originally Posted by beltran89 (Post 6141164)

Someone help needed! I think i found a good deal, please give me a insight for im only 19, on craiglist near me soneone is selling a g92 rear end with disc brakes, says comes with new brake pads, and e brake line, for 350. Ok price ? Good invedtment? For i have stock rear end and drum brakes

Originally Posted by beltran89 (Post 6141239)

So a g92 rear end isnt anything thst special ? And what does thr mileage to price ratio look like if 350 is exspensive ?

Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ (Post 3091579)

i just mounted my Irocz spare and it seems to fit over the LS1 brakes..but the clearance is VERY tight... you definately might want to grind some of the caliper mounting bracket for more clearance (see arrow in pic)..but it does seem to work. see pics

the spare is supposively a full size spare for the 16x8 Irocz rims. i'd be very happy if i could use it since my 9 bolt broke and i will be using the ls1 rear i have layin around

Originally Posted by Keith Jennings (Post 6279139)

how do u identify a ls1 rear end at the yard??

Originally Posted by JamesC (Post 6302589)

From the manual:

"The pressure differential warning switch is designed to constantly compare front and rear brake pressure from the master cylinder and energize the warning light on the dash in the event of a front or rear system failure. The valve and switch are so designed that the switch will latch in the "warning" position once a failure has occurred. The only way the light can be turned off is to repair the failure and apply a pedal force to develop approximately 450 psi line pressure."

I assume the wiring is attached to the combination valve.

JamesC

Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ (Post 2659059)

EDIT: revised version with more info


First read the tech article on this site
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...hgenrear.shtml

I wrote another similar thread before (now edited to this) and decided that since i just did the swap, i would clean that post up and add more info and pics. This is what i know about the rears and swap from lots of time searching and my recent experience.

The 4th gen rears retain all of the third gen stuff, all shocks/springs, panhard bar, lower control arms and such.

If you lower the car, get an adjustable panhard bar to recenter the rear… if not it will kick out on the driver’s side. Mine did that with an eibach pro-kit.

LT1 and LS1 A4 cars had either 2.73 or 3.23 rear (gotta check that out) and T56 cars had a 3.42. The LS1 rear is preferred in a lot of cases because of the brakes that usually come with it. They are pretty big at 12inch and big single piston calipers and work good. Up until '99, the 10 bolts had Auburn posi units..(from the best of my knowledge) which is a clutch type posi that needs limited slip additive. 99+ Ls1 cars had Zexel Torsen differentials which are great for strip performance. Although some SS model cars from 99+ did have options for the Auburn unit. Zexen diffs dont have clutches which can wear out in a short amount of time. Just another advantage of the zexel differential.

The 93-97 4th gen rears are 3.8" wider from hub to hub so the stock thirdgen wheels will stick out some. A lot say that its even with the fender lip so its not all that bad. Some stick out abit past. the 98+ rears are abit shorter, at about 3.5 inches wide they say, but my measurements are showing more like a 3.125 inch difference. LS1 rear is about 64 3/4inch long and 9 bolt was 61 5/8. Below you can see my pics, its even with the fender lip.

Also, the rears are available with traction control or without out it. These are called 4 channel rear ends for traction control, and 3 channel rearends without traction control. Since thirdgens don’t have ABS or traction control it really doesn’t matter which type rear you get performance wise. However the brake lines on the rear will be different. The rears with traction control and abs have split separate lines and don’t connect to a T block like the 3 channel and factory thirdgen disk brake rears...so if you get a 4 channel, you’ll want to run new hardlines from the calipers to a T block on the rear end, just like factory thirdgen disk brake cars have. You should be able to reuse your factory disk brake cars rubber line and Tblock and just screw in the new hardlines to the 4thgen calipers. Several members have done this. (82-83 cars might have different fittings for the hardline on the car from what I read, so you might wanna check that) Just measure the new hardline lengths, which should be about 18-20inch on the drivers side and 26-30 inch for the passenger side. Check which type fitting ends they have. i'm not sure on this one. Also check to see if your factory lines will work…I have heard it works as well.

3 channel rearends have brake line setups like our thirdgen cars. The lines run from calipers and meet at a T block on the rear and the rubber line from the T block just screws into the factory thirdgens hardline fitting. My rear was a 4 channel but I had 3 channel lines put on. My car is a 89 with 9 bolt rear end with factory PBR calipers/11.65 inch rotors . LS1 rear was direct bolt on from suspension stuff to the brake lines. i reused my stock proportioning valve and the car seems to stop great! just like before if not better now!

For the drum rear to 4th gen conversion, you can use the stock 3rd gen master cylinder...some have even used the stock-proportioning valve with out problems. However it wouldn’t hurt to put in a disk rear proportioning valve or an adjustable one from summit racing or wildwood. I’d recommend it. You will need the proper brake lines from the calipers to the T-fitting at the rear. You should be able to keep everything factory from that fitting forward just like the disk brake cars above. This comes from the research on this site I have done, so the hardline fittings on the drum car must be the same as the disk cars. The rear brake lines and the parking brake are the only things you'll need to modify when swapping to a 4th gen rear

Now for the stuff that don’t work….like I just mentioned, the only thing that isnt a bolt in deal is the ebrake cables. For that to work, you need to make a bracket to hold the 4thgen cables to the top of the trans tunnel.. or get different cables and mod them to work

LS1 98+ rears go here for Ebrake cable info. It covers part numbers, custom brackets and such. Basically, The Bendex P/N# C1621 are the ones to get, but I guess they are discontinued? So use Tru-Torque# C94597 which are 1460mm long. Page 2 of the bottom link goes into good detail on these cables and mods. Also you can use the stock LS1 cables if you mod them as mentioned in the link. I am not running cables yet, and probly will be buying the ones mentioned.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=&pagenumber=1

another members ebrake mods and info
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...ml#post3114935

If you have a 93-97 rear, go to a parts store like advance auto, or pep boys or whatever, and ask for e-brake cables for a 90-92 camaro with rear discs. this will give you the right cables. you'll need two. The 90-92 F-bodies used identical rear disc brakes as the 93 to 97 4th gens. A lot of ppl use the 91 or 92. Get the first design, as there are two I believe.

Few pics at the bottom of this thread… describing stock wheels sticking out

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...h+gen+rear+end

Some info on beefing up 10 bolt rears

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...h+gen+rear+end

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...you-build.html

10 bolt strength..what power some members are running thru the 10bolts
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-300-rwhp.html

Quick run down of the install courtesy of Zepher

Jack up the rear of the car and support the body with 2 jackstands.
Place 2 jackstands under each of the axle tubes.
Remove the wheels
Remove the 2 long bolts the hold the torque arm to the pumpkin on the rear end
Move torque arm to the side or pull it off
Unbolt the driveshaft from the rear end, leave it in the tranny and lay the end on the ground being careful not to damage it or knock the end caps off
unbolt the sway bar from the rear
you can leave the sway bar attached to the endlinks but it will make it harder to move the rear end out from under the car
remove the brake lines from the drums
unbolt the lower control arms from the rear end
unbolt the brake line "T" from the rear end, if you are changing the brake lines, remove the lines from the "T" before unbolting it
unbolt the shocks from the rear
using the jack under the rear end, carefully balance it and jack it up a bit and pull the shocks out of the rear end, shocks will just hang there.
move the 2 jackstands that were under the rear end.
As you carefully lower the rear end, grab the coil springs as they will start to fall out.
roll the jack with the rear end out from under the car and place it somewhere.
Put the 4th gen rear on the jack and roll it under the car.
jack it up about level with the shocks and place the jackstands under the rear.
Position the springs back on the perches and carefully jack the rear up
Bolt up the shocks
Bolt up the Lower control arms.
And just start bolting everything else back up.



And now my LS1 4th gen rear installation pics
LS1 rear end installation pictures from cars photos on webshots

Originally Posted by atapia14 (Post 6370864)

I just picked up a 2002 3.23 rear end and I need help with what I may need. Just trying do as much research as I can, I purchased koni yellows to.go with the rear end as well as umi weight jack kits, I know you said I'll need an adjustable panhard bar. What else would I need? Torque arm? Subframe connectors? Can I still put a sway bar on? If anyone could help me out that'd be amazing.

Originally Posted by waterboy5127 (Post 6457047)

If I am understanding you correctly, It sounds like you simply dont have the correct bolts for your 4th gen replacement rear end "yoke". I would call the shop who did your rear gear work, and ask them if they have the correct ones, or swing by the junk yard with a pic, one of your old bolts, and an explanation of what you have. Wish you good luck, and man will that gear change "wake-up" your car.

Originally Posted by evilstuie (Post 6457099)

Thanks guys.
Yeah I did think about running a t5ap through but haven't had the best of luck with those.

@Fullmonte77 Do you recall what size it was?
I'm assuming it's 5/16-24 UNF?

I tried spraying some penetrant and winding the bolts in and out to try and clean but that had no effect.

Originally Posted by waterboy5127 (Post 6457124)

All due respect, I would NOT tap new threads, those are fine thread high strength bolts for a reason, no place to "cheat". Good Luck.

Originally Posted by evilstuie (Post 6457361)

Classic good news bad news scenario.

So I cleaned up the threads in the yoke and there was a fair bit of crap in there. I also ran the bolts through the die and everything went in and fit perfectly....

Except the conversion joint. Two problems with that.

One was that the conversion joint was the wrong way round (3R end was for the diff yoke with the 2 inner C clips to hold it in, tailshaft end was for the 4thgen aluminum style)
Luckily I figured this out during the attempt to remove the old uni with butane torch and hammer....

I ended up dremmeling out the staked nut on the diff yoke, and boosting the **** out of the compressor with a rattle gun and got the yoke off and switched it out with my old diff to get back to a 3R/3R setup.

What a pain in the ***, but at least now the 4th gen diff is all attached and in. Now for the rest of the project.
Thanks for the help guys.

Originally Posted by Fullmonte77 (Post 6457362)

Bad thing is now you lost your preload on the pinion bearings. When you remove the yoke you need to replace the crush sleeve and redo your bearing preload.