That is exactly what I have in my tank. I got it because i wanted to run e85. which i did run for about 5 months. It works fine and also is e85 compliant. If you put it in there, youll never need a bigger pump ever. Its a good choice

http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-103881...qUoRoC3Yrw_wcB

Here is where i got mine. Alot cheeper and it worked just fine. Genuine walbro.

 

2.8 harness
Just a quick question on the fuel injector harness for the 3400 since the connector isnt the same as the old 2.8s i pulled apart my 3.1 injector harness because i have the old bosch connector on my new injectors and its wired together pretty crazy will i need to do that to the 3400 harness? Ik the 3400 has sfi verses the mpfi.

 

Started pulling the engine this weekend i only have the motor mounts left and shell come out

 

 

 

 

Thanks man in so excited

 

Okay i really need someone to weld up some turbo headers for me like soon can anyone help

 

Ok so every thing electrical is hooked up except the coil packs and the alternator. Waiting on 2 pigtails so i can wire in the coil packs for dis. Now heres my question. Is there any way at all i can keep the alternator in the place its in from factory i realy dont want to move it and have to lengthen a few more wires lol

 

Spark plug gap for ac delcos r42lts i believe thats their name. I have them set at .045 the stock gap for the camaro should i run a 3400s spark gap of .060 or will .045 be fine

 

Still waiting on a response for my plug issue..
also i got a 3.4 alt braket how exactly will i need to mount the cps since the bcc mount doesnt work anymore all help is appreciated. Pictures pls too its way easier to see it than try imagining wht it looks like

 

I gap my r42lts at .035 keep in mind I'm turboed. So if you are na. I would just run .045

 

ok cool. What did u do about the crank sensor mount and i noticed my alternator pulley sits about an inch too far forward and is out of line of the other pulleys

 

I bought a kit from BBC. So it bolted right up on the pass side of the block next to the water pump. I had to Change all of my belt routing when I did the hybrid swap. My alternator is on the drivers side now. See the pic and you can see my stuff is all moved around turn buckles help a lot. I don't use a tensioner anymore either.

 

Ahhh ok that was the idea at first to get the kit from bcc but the sites down unfortunatly

 

I tried to make my own kit but it didnt work out so well..lol you would have to either buy or have a reluctor wheel made with 7 notches in it. Then make a bracket that would hold the crank sensor littlery a playing cards width away from the relctor wheel. Is there a number for BBC that you can call while their site is down? For 150 bucks their kits are well worth the time and hassle.

 

you can use this as a template. has other DIS info. id imagine it would have to be a perfect circle. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_DIS.htm

 

Ok so i am building some temp headers cause the msnifolds didnt work out😂😂 and i still have to wire in my DIS can somone post pictures my pack has the 6 pin terminal on it and if irc the 3pin above it or a 4 idk off hand im looking at fasteddies build but it only shows the big connector

 

The 3-pin you will need to add about a foot of wire to... It's for the CKP. The CKP on the 3100 is on the back of the engine under the ignition module, so the wiring is short. On the RWD setup, you will need to run the wiring across the front of the engine and down to the sensor so you need to add wire.

The 6-pin wires up as stock. Only issue is you need to make sure you don't mess up wiring the white wires in. There's 2 of them. One is the EST signal and the other is the TACH wire. The RED/BLK wires to the BLK/RED (not sure why GM decided to reverse the wire colors but they did...).

As for the alternator, you need to get a 3.4 alt. The stock one doesn't bolt to the bracket. And you will need to modify it for the valve cover clearance.

I hope you got the 3.4 belt tensioner as well... 3.1 tensioner won't work as the mounting pattern and the direction of rotation for loosening the belt is different. Without AIR and without A/C I used a 615K6 belt...

 

i actualy modifyed my stock alternator it works now. The thing is is i had to buy new connectors and they are not color coded. Every wire on them is white thats why i needed pics so ik which goes where. And my tach wire is non existant😂 idk where it is because where it would run is cut at the ignition pack

 

Double post

 

From left to rightt i have it wired
blk/rd
purple/white
blank
blank
white
brown black

 

Im looking at my wiring diagram and idk why this is pink/blk shouldnt it be solid pink Only solid pink wire in the area
Idk what to do with this it went to some solenoid and pack
The random pigtail from above and the solenoid it went to

 

Ok so everything is wired up and works the next step is figuring out how to setup my spark tables
I am sticking with $3a for my build and im not looking to switch at the moment. If someone could take a look at the files and inform me what to do that would be awesome. Gearhead efi has the files listed in there forms ill probably post a link i have them on a flsh drive but lack access to a computer until next week

 

Bump

 

what ecm are you running?

 

Its a 7302 maf ecm i have a whole 7730 harnes but it was butchered while they took it out when i got my 3.1 it didnt come with an ecm. Id really like to stick with the 7302 ecm

 

I will be quite honest I remember trying to help somebody a few years back with that same computer and we came out empty-handed when trying to tune it. I know that's not what you wanted here and I'm sure there is a way to tune it but it is a very very slow computer with very very little support a 730 would be the perfect computer for you if you have the time and such to switch it over

 

What do you mean when you say slow and yeah tuning support is very limited unfortunatly id be more apt to swap if i had a new wiring harness for a 3.1 the one i has seen better days lol it came with the motor so i cant complain tho

 

I am not sure how old you are but I am 32. You remember about 15 years ago when you would go online and click something and it will take 2 minutes to load the page if not longer LOL that's what I mean by that computer is slow. I remember doing some data logging with a 302 ECM and it was almost irritating because the feedback from the sensors was not fast at all. It was like its refresh rate was very slow. I am not saying you can't tune that computer because I'm sure if you can I just don't know how to do it myself.

I don't want to give you any misinformation so maybe you should head over to tuning part of this forum. The dyi ecm. Areas. They might help slot more.

 

Yeah i wasnt old enough during that era but i know what ur talking about. I datalogged once and i think i remember what u were talking about very choppy response ill pull it up if i can and take another look ill check the diy section too i think i posted b4 with no reasponse

 

The '302 reads boost with g/sec, you need to tune for larger injectors and extend the MAF tables. If I were you I would repin your stock harness for the '165 setup, then get started on your tuning. There is a lot out there in terms of support if you go that route...

 

Not that I have ever re pinned a ecm for a swap, but its it much more difficult to repin it for a 7730? He could then run a $59 mask which is easy as cake to tune for DIS ignition and even with a 1 bar map as well. Then when he turbos it he could go up to a 3 bar or stick with $58 and run 2 bar. OR then again he could run 8D.....

 

All excellent options, but the good thing about his existing setup is that he can re-pin his existing harness to run the '7165 and either run a MAF translator w/custom chip to read higher than 255 g/sec, or run the $12P mask which is Speed Density using the MAF based ECM. A major plus for the '7730 is the amount of support found on this website.

By the way, I read that you switched to a V8. I told you a long time ago when you first started that you had nothing to prove to anyone, so don't go overboard, and after years and years of playing with the turbo V6, you finally understand what I meant. We get wrapped up in the game and lose sight of what was the original goal, and I am glad to see you are with a V8 and having fun with it. Seen the video, the damn thing revs quick. It's only a matter of time before you turbo it...

 

I didn't know you could do that with the 165. That is another good option for him. Either way he goes I think doing a ECM swap to one of those two would be very beneficial for him and make it much easier to tune the vehicle especially if he's running the dis ignition.

I definitely like the V8 it's very fun it's not as fast right now but I'm sure it could be much faster later. I will say I did lose sight of what I was trying to accomplish years ago. I felt like I was under a microscope or getting scrutinized by others especially V8 people. Thats why I kept pushing the V6 so hard. I made about 30 min 11-second passes with that car so I feel like that even though I left the V6 world for now I definitely left my mark. Chasing down times and pushing the limits. I will never ever forget that V6 it was such a fun car but damm did it have a lot of maintenance in the lot of upkeep to keep that grenade going. And yes I do plan on turboing this V8 one day it already has a lot of forged guts on it so it's halfway setup for a decent turbo setup. For now I want to get back to what I grew up doing and bracket race and win some rounds now I just have to learn how to tune a carburetor LOL

 

Well I'm either switching to a RMT or a Procharger, still undecided, but the current turbo system I am done using. The AC system is going back on too. Sooooo, I have a complete AC delete setup, and a set of turbo headers with T4 flange w/wastegate, that can all be used with a blow through carb. Yes, I'm a bad influence lol...

 

Temp headers😂

 

haha a new term to the words OPEN HEADERS!

 

rt lmao they were longer but i figured why not i dont have any wired running by theyre all tucked neatly

 

Brilliant 😀

 

Lookin at repinning for the 165 it seems really easy and very straight forward. Id prefer not buying even more stuff lmao but if tjis will work tons better than the 302 why not. Now street lethal have you done the swap b4 if so how were your results? Can i convert the ecm to speed density?

 

head studs, MLS gaskets, 918 behive springs, walbro fuel pump, and turbo headers are on their way. You are getting the original turbo headers I made so they're not perfect but they're sealed up good and to be honest I think you're getting a good deal on everything so it's a win-win situation for us both I can't wait to see your build come together I hope you continue on and do great things

 

Badass i really appreciate it man

 

Well a little update.
As of Oct 6 i am a 11c mortar infantryman in the us army. It was a long and hard 14 weeks but well worth it. Im really excited for whats in store for me these next 3 years. With that said i can now do exactly what i wanted to do with this build without the shortcuts lol and fix some things that i could overlook and keep with this build.
some new upgrades to come
borg warner turbo
alky injection
Full porting
MS3 ecm
4 speed tranny
stage 4 clutch kit
and prolly a bunvh of other stuff i cant think of at the moment lol this is of course gonna span the next 3 years. I did buy the ms3 so i can ditch my stock ecm now and not worry about its limitations. The clutch is next with a tranny gonna get a boost controller too alot to come!!!

 

Update:
New Spec stage 3 clutch ordered
New Ms2 ecm ordered with a 10' harness
New wideband O2 sensor ordered

car should be finnished come christmas me and the old man are gonna work at it come my holiday block leave. Finally got my own welder and cuttin torches.
only car like it thatll be Cruisin ft. Benning

 

Christmas came early!