What should i seal the access hole with in the rear hatch area after the PO hacked a hole in the rear hatch area? I dropped the tank already to replace it for fuel neck leak. While i have it out, i would like to do the repair from the underside. Silicone caulking? Butyl tape with some kind of cloth covering? Thanks in advance guys

 

only real way to fix it is to weld new metal in. if you don't have access to a welder then you can rivet a piece of metal over the hole and use seam sealer (not silicone) to seal the edges.

 

Sounds like a great idea! there are alot of 6cyl firebirds and camaros in the yards. I will head there and get a patch panel! Thank you

 

Make sure you use a good seam seal and do it from the underside. If you do it from the top water, dirt and debris will have a way in to sit between the 2 pieces of metal. Seal it up good and there should be no issues.

 

 

Just weld this in, and be done with it, never drop the tank again. Unless your car is a collector car all stock or something, there's literally no reason to worry about an access hole done correctly.

I installed this with karropak felpro gasket material to create an air tight seal. There will never be fuel vapors, and the area is now more structurally sound with the 1/4 plate welded in and bolted in around the perimeter.

Seam sealer around the edges against the body wouldn't be a bad idea either


https://www.detroitspeed.com/Fuel-sy...-door-kit.html

 

Wow! nice work! do you still have the 3rd gen tank or did you upgrade to the plastic 4th gen?

 

I had the same predicament when I tore into my Camaro. Previous owner just cut a hole in the trunk area (with a metal cut-off wheel no less) and did nothing afterwards.



I made an entire post about my thoughts and dealing with it and what other members had done. You can find it here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...rect-fuel.html

Long story short I welded in a 16 gauge plate (No way is the floor thicker than 18 gauge) with an oval cut out and secured a lid with riv nuts. I use a gasket in between the lid and body.



I did all of this with the tank out and drained. I also cut the lines and added in the female unions rated for higher pressure applications. I can now replace the pump and sending unit in 15 minutes or less.

 

WOW. that looks not bad actually....

 

Thanks, I upgraded to a 4th gen plastic tank. I probably wouldn't risk welding with the tank in to be honest, too risky