Does anyone know the specs on this cam??google has absolutely nothing about it and the seller I've been talking to doesn't know either thanks,one thread said the same specs as the 2032 but nothing else stating that thanks

 

Yes, that's GM's part number for the Crane CompuCam 2032.

When I purchased mine, I contacted Crane, and they sent me this cam card for the 2032.

 

Thats what my degree wheel lined up well with for this cam too. It was used in the early 300 hp Marine Vortec 350s with the dual plane mpi intake. Lots of useable midrange torque.

 

I'll be using it in my 88 gta,ported stock heads and intake,already have a fuel pressure regulator,hopefully give me a bump over stock

 

I think it will be noticeable...Probably run ok on the stock tuning since its MAF too.

Is it a 305 or 350?

It will wake a 305 up more than a 350 because the factory cam in the MAF 305s is pretty small.

 

It's a 350,actually got the software and cable to learn to tune also

 

Figured I'd revive this thread and post what I found with this cam. I bought it a few months ago for $165 canadian. friend of mine has 350 that we rebuilt going in his boat with vortec heads. I had a LT4 hotcam that i've had for years but it was out of his price range (hotcam is $600+ canadian now!!!) . anyway we installed today and put a degree wheel on it. Now keep in mind intake was already installed and i measured off the push rod with my dial indicator... I know not ideal, but still works. 202/210* duration @ 0.050". I installed a 2* offset key and got ICL 108* & ECL 117*. 112.5* LSA, lift was 0.300"/0.310" at the lifter. Good enough for what we are doing, but ~10* less than what is mentioned here.

 

Those number are right on the money! Let us know how she runs.

 

Will do, I hope he gets around to finishing it this year... Also I might note the LS-style lifter trays I used work great. removed rocker arms, rotated crank twice and the cam pulled out WITH INTAKE STILL INSTALLED. I was very impressed. GM Performance 88958652

 

I just degreed the 2nd of these cams I bought. 1st one from 4-5 years ago was a Crane cam matching the 2032. The 2nd one is a GM cam from a what was noticeable as a different supplier.

These numbers are as close as I could get them with my dial indicator on the lifter body.

269/295 @ 0.004
258/282 @ 0.006
200/216 @ 0.050
171/185 @ 0.100
149/155 @ 0.150
118/130 @ 0.200
82/96 @ 0.250
18/38 @ 0.300
0.3015/0.310 lobe lift
111 ICL and 120 ECL

So atleast the newer one I have is smaller.

258/282 @ 0.006
200/216 @ 0.050
0.452/0.465 lift with a 1.6 rocker
111 ICL and 115.5 LSA.

I am putting it into a L31 with Mahle lightweight LT1 pistons and a L30 305 marine crank. Aftermarket vortecs that appear to be Speedmaster that I did some cleanup work on. GM vortec truck intake and Holley 2.5" outlet SBC manifolds.

 

Just thought I would bring this one back with some more information on how the 2nd cam I degreed behaves. I ended up practically stealing a new/open box Proflow4 4150 setup from the Summit Racing bargain cave at the price I payed for it. Also snagged a pair of Hooker 2.5" outlet SBC performance manifolds. The L31 is built as described, LT1 Mahle pistons, L30 305 nodular iron marine crank that had 75 hours on it when the block was not winterized, the cleaned up Speedmaster vortecs with LS6 springs and Comp 787 retainers.

It fired on the second bump of the starter, I set the timing and then when the engine warmed up adjusted the idle adjustment more open to achieve the desired IAC opening. Now fires on the first bump of the starter. Idles good at 650 rpm with 18* of idle timing and nearly 19 in/hg idle vacuum showing. At 2,000 rpm it carries over 22 in/hg at 36* timing. The Proflow 4 is still learning and thus far the longer it has run the more it learns, the more the engine breaks in and the better it runs. I yanked the PCV valve out of it and the rings have mostly seated already, very minor amounts of blow by escaping. I need th go through and re-adjust the valvetrain. I have the best luck doing a running adjustment and these have only been done statically.

I was very shocked it started and idled without even touching the throttle or distributor from where I dropped them in. I had it about 6-8* retarded. The cylinder walls in this engine were in such good shape I did not even hone them. It was a 110K mile Goodwrench Mexican crate engine that had been in my aunts Escalade that cracked both crappy Mexican 062s, the second set on an engine I installed the same time period that had cracked. I kept the core for the $100 core charge. Truck is in great shape even with the mileage so it got another L31 put into it. Cheaper than a new truck.

Back to the L31 it had gauged bearings based off the stampings, they were clean enough I could have re-used them, however I put the L30 crank in it and had to mix both Standard bearings and 0.001" oversize bearing halfs here and there on the rods and mains to get the oil clearence where I wanted it. I own a dial bore gauge and a mic, but I chose to merely plastigauge it since it was a see what I can get away with type build. With the cleaned and re-used M99HVS oil pump that had been in the 350 in my Express it runs 50 psi hot idle oil pressure and climbs to a max of 75 psi. I am totally happy with it and when the quiet exhaust goes on it, will probably barely be able to tell it is not the stock L03 when it is running. The engine itself purrs as smoothly as any LS I have been around, sounds good and runs practically dead smooth. For taking a pile of used stuff, not taking the block to a machine shop or even honing it for that matter, cleaning and re-using older GM roller lifters, pistons and other parts, this thing runs shockingly well. Should be the perfect setup for this van with its TH400, stock 2,000 rpm converter and 3.08 gears.


First Start

First Warmup after setting the timing

Idle Adjusted

Hot Idle and Throttle Response

I added 10% crank fuel to it fpr the second start as it seemed a bit lean trying to start. Started 1st hit of the starter after about 1-1.5 rotation of the crank and I put it into gear to get the driveline spinning before loading it by driving around. Driveline has been sleeping a few years now. Next up finish the vans actual engine wiring harness, get some liability insurance on it and take it out and get her really broken in.


i ran it up around 50-55 mph for about 5 minutes as well, basically as long as I could stand the engine heat oven even on this 40*F morning. I touched 60 mph but the dry rotted, flat spotted tires started vibrating noticeably about 60 mph.

 

Sounds good Chris. Seems like you got good results once again.

Sadly, my Crane 2032 is still in the box. The garage fire has set me back a couple of years.

That's funny. The L30 heads I bought came from a boat that had broken the side out of the block. Winterized, but they suspected core sand that didn't come out of one section of the block, and retained water (at least that was the story). I wanted the whole engine, for the crank and powdered metal rods, but he'd already sold the short-block before I got there.You can see the block damage below. A '99 boat and engine with 120 hours they claimed.



As with all Vortecs, I'll have these L30 heads crack checked before I do anything with them.

 

I had the 059s off it too. This one actually belonged to the GM cluster repair guy that had a shop space across the parking lot from me. He was using the boat during the summer, a nasty divorice happened, she kept the boat 6-8 months and would not give it back to him until it was court ordered. When he got it back it was too late for the 305.

I bought a Mercruiser 6.3L a while back for a song and a dance for the same reason, same exact story actually. Apparantly ex-wives are hard on both boats and pool/hot tub equipment. I wanted that GM 3.80" forged crank mainly.

I now have another L31 350 short block I am about to snag for $100. Was a lower mileage junkyard engine a friend of a friend bought 10 years and and has been in the back of my buddies garage since. They pulled the heads off it and put them on a 350 in a C10, covered the block bores in spray grease and bagged it in a contractor bag and there it sits.

I forgot about your garage fire. That certainly turns things upside down.

 

One more shelf to put up, and I can move the T/A back into the garage for some much needed winter projects. Goal was to move it by today, but with 3" of slippery snow on the ground at the moment, I'm goign to wait a few days more to move it from the back garage to the front.