what brand lcas and panhard bar to get
what brand lcas and panhard bar to get
im dropping the rear to install a new fuel pump and am probably gonna get some lcas and a panhard bar to put in there whiule its apart. a bunch of my friends have forth gens and they swear by BMR and i like what i see. who makes the best LCAS and Panhard bar for a thirdgen. Also do i really need adjustable stuff or would the unadjustable stuff be alright.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 262
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From: Ohio
Car: 1991 Pontiac ta 5.0l 2005 pontiac gxp 5.3l ls4 dod 2003 GMC Envoy 4.2l
There are may brands shop around it all depends on what you want to spend. I myself have lakewood lca and adjustable panhard bar work great and easy on my wallet. Many others have used them to0 with great luck. Anything boxed is better then what gm used (stamped steel) Spohn is also a manufacture that sells then. look into lca relocation brackets also since you have everything apart at the time. Will help the rearend bite so much better. Adjustable parts help if your going to be doing mods on susp and ride of veh if not then it realy does not matter. Just remember the best is nice to have but there are many brands that do just as good at a lower price. hope this helps
Keep the third gen alive and killing those ruststangs!!!
Keep the third gen alive and killing those ruststangs!!!
Last edited by 91blkta; May 22, 2002 at 12:46 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Lancaster, CA.
Car: '92 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: Tremec T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt/3.42
Re: what brand lcas and panhard bar to get
Originally posted by MyBlackRocZ
im dropping the rear to install a new fuel pump and am probably gonna get some lcas and a panhard bar to put in there whiule its apart. a bunch of my friends have forth gens and they swear by BMR and i like what i see. who makes the best LCAS and Panhard bar for a thirdgen. Also do i really need adjustable stuff or would the unadjustable stuff be alright.
im dropping the rear to install a new fuel pump and am probably gonna get some lcas and a panhard bar to put in there whiule its apart. a bunch of my friends have forth gens and they swear by BMR and i like what i see. who makes the best LCAS and Panhard bar for a thirdgen. Also do i really need adjustable stuff or would the unadjustable stuff be alright.
I am going to order my rear suspension parts from Global West
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From: Pflugerville, TX USA
Car: 1999 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS1 V8
Transmission: T-56 6spd
Check out my sig and the link to my site to see pics of everything. I am very happy with all the stuff I got. Better than stock and just a little more expensive.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,817
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From: Plano, TX
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
I like my parts from BMR Fabriaction (www.bmrfabrication.com). They arent the cheapest, but they are quality parts, and you can get them powdercoated in about 6 or 7 colors, which is why I chose them over Spohn parts, since they only come bare, black, or red
. There are GP's on suspension parts all the time, I'd wait till one pops up before you buy so you can save a few bucks. You dont have to drop the rear to install the new LCA's and Panhard bar, you just have to let it hang a little. While you are at it, you should go ahead and get the LCA Relocation brackets, as you will need them anyway when lowering your car (If you ever plan to). If you dont, it will mess up your LCA geometry (front part will be lower than the rear part, which is opposite of what it should be). You'll need the adjustable panhard bar when lowering the car, and you'll also need the adjustable LCA's (I think) if you use the relocation brackets, which you NEED to do. If you are going to leave the car at stock ride height, I'm sure you can get away with the stock length parts, but the LCA relocation brackets will even help out a stock height car quite a bit.
. There are GP's on suspension parts all the time, I'd wait till one pops up before you buy so you can save a few bucks. You dont have to drop the rear to install the new LCA's and Panhard bar, you just have to let it hang a little. While you are at it, you should go ahead and get the LCA Relocation brackets, as you will need them anyway when lowering your car (If you ever plan to). If you dont, it will mess up your LCA geometry (front part will be lower than the rear part, which is opposite of what it should be). You'll need the adjustable panhard bar when lowering the car, and you'll also need the adjustable LCA's (I think) if you use the relocation brackets, which you NEED to do. If you are going to leave the car at stock ride height, I'm sure you can get away with the stock length parts, but the LCA relocation brackets will even help out a stock height car quite a bit. Trending Topics
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,777
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
I have spohn relocation brackets as well as his adjustable panhard bar. I am extremely happy, and he is very well priced on his products. I was more impressed with the qaulity of his products than that of edelbrocks (strut tower brace). Plus, he supports this website and really tries to make a difference in the performace of our cars.
I have the lakewood lower control arms, and I'll probably get their panhard rod this week.
As long as it's a solid piece with greasable polyurethane bushings, they will all perform, and last, the same.
So I'd say save the extra money and just buy the lakewood stuff.
As long as it's a solid piece with greasable polyurethane bushings, they will all perform, and last, the same.
So I'd say save the extra money and just buy the lakewood stuff.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,108
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From: Western NY
Car: 2007 Saturn Sky Redline
Engine: 2.0 turbo
Transmission: m5
Axle/Gears: 3.91 LSD
Spohn Spohn Spohn Spohn Spohn
His stuff is made so well and so much better than most other suspension components I've seen. WELL worth the extra few dollars to get yourself a set of super light Chrome Moly combination rod end/poly bushing LCAs and Panhard bar, along with some relocation brackets. You just cannot go wrong buying his stuff.
His stuff is made so well and so much better than most other suspension components I've seen. WELL worth the extra few dollars to get yourself a set of super light Chrome Moly combination rod end/poly bushing LCAs and Panhard bar, along with some relocation brackets. You just cannot go wrong buying his stuff.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,817
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From: Plano, TX
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Larry Burd
the whole point is your stock pieces are 15 years old. so it's time to replace them with new stock pieces
I do road courses, and auto-x all stock. THey work fine.
Larry
the whole point is your stock pieces are 15 years old. so it's time to replace them with new stock pieces
I do road courses, and auto-x all stock. THey work fine.
Larry
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Rugby, England
Car: 1988 IROC Vert
Engine: 355 ZZ4
Transmission: T5 Manual
Larry, yeah they stamped steel and the very design of them results in a magnitude of flex. In the LCA's that is not good! I bet with your racing you would notice an improvement with aftermarket ones over brand new stock pieces
I just checked out the prices at spohn, and part for part, they're the same or cheaper than the lakewood stuff I thought was the cheapest. ($85 for the non-adjustable panhard @ spohn)
Even though I feel one solid panhard rod(as long as its built with quality) is as good as the next one, I see that Spohn is actually coming up with new stuff to make the 3rd gen better, so I'll probably throw my next purchase his way and see how it goes.
Anyone know how long it usually takes him to process an order?
Even though I feel one solid panhard rod(as long as its built with quality) is as good as the next one, I see that Spohn is actually coming up with new stuff to make the 3rd gen better, so I'll probably throw my next purchase his way and see how it goes.
Anyone know how long it usually takes him to process an order?
With everyday use on the road (potholes,etc...), I would strongly advise anyone to buy the boxed LCA's over tubuler ones. Boxed are heavier but in the long run (5 years+) they will not bend or ops! shall i say snap. Tubular rods are more fragile where the tube is welded to the end bushing. After everyday abuse and corrosion they have a better chance of failing than do the endlinks in a boxed type. Boxed arms just have more unsprung weight and is less apeeling on an all-out racecar.
Ive broken too many tubular products in my short life. One of them a front control arm that I am lucky to still be here.
Just food for thought.
I've raced alot of years in auto-x, speeds are not that high and flex is not a great concern. A stock suspension on good auto-x tires would suprize most of you. Just go to an event an witness this for yourself. They post all times and you can look under any car (there's no secrets). Auto-x will show a good driver, not a good car. But Larry, if you don't mind me saying, you've got ***** roadracing a stock suspension.That's getting scary.
Ive broken too many tubular products in my short life. One of them a front control arm that I am lucky to still be here.
Just food for thought.
I've raced alot of years in auto-x, speeds are not that high and flex is not a great concern. A stock suspension on good auto-x tires would suprize most of you. Just go to an event an witness this for yourself. They post all times and you can look under any car (there's no secrets). Auto-x will show a good driver, not a good car. But Larry, if you don't mind me saying, you've got ***** roadracing a stock suspension.That's getting scary.
Last edited by AFrikinGoodTime; May 25, 2002 at 04:02 AM.
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