Are there currently any alternative on the market to the stock a-arms that come on our cars?

 

Check out Thunder Racing. They have PA Control arms in mild or chrome moly and with or without spring perches. This is my next big purchase.

 

Never Heard of PA they any good. What will I gain by using tubular a-arms

 

As far as I know, PA builds pretty decent stuff. If you aren't comfortable with PA, roumor has it that Global West is developing tubular a-arms for our cars. I don't know if they will do spring perches or if they will be like the Art Morrison arms and require a coil-over set up. As far as what you'll gain, beter suspension reaction, and therefore better handling. The tubular arms are stronger, more rigid (deflect less under load) and are lighter. Also, you get poly bushings and new heavy duty ball joints pre-installed in the PA a-arms. The chrome-moly is stronger and lighter than mild steel. When you lower your un-sprung weight (basicly the weight of the suspension) your suspension can react quicker and with better precision. You will need to do all of the other suspension upgrades to realize all the benefits of a tubular a-arm. The most important upgrade is sub-frame connectors. If you don't install sub-frame connectors then you might as well not upgrade your suspension.

 

Ok, tell me if I am on the right track here or if i should be doing something differently..


I have the following installed:
Custom Subframe Connectors welded into the chasis made out of boxed steel..
Random Technologoies lower control arms (tubular)


I have the following on hand waiting to go in:
Spohn Adjustable Panhard Rod
Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm
Bilstein Struts and Shocks
Eiback Pro Kit
Suspension Techniques Solid Front and Rear Bar
1LE Brakes Front and Rear
Considering the PA A-arms.
All Poly Bushings

Would this be a good setup? Anything I am missing or should substitute?

 

All sounds great. The thing you should be ready for is a lot of time to tweak adjustment on the torque arm and panhard rod. Suspension tuning is a fine art, and I don't have much experience in that aspect. There are two other things you'll need for sure. First are rear lower control arm relocation brackets (weld in ones). They help correct the suspension geometry after lowering the car. Second, a good 3-point strut tower brace. Make sur you get one that connects to the firewall (actuall they all connect to the cowl) like the Edelbrock, the Kenny Brown, or the BMR one. I'm probably going to go with the Kenny Brown one since it is all welded and has no parts that will wear. You could also add the 'wonder bar' which was a stock piece on some IROC's & GTA's that braces the front of the frame at the steering box. If you can find one in a bone-yard or on E-Bay for cheap. Sounds like you are on the right track with your project.

 

If you are interested in a tubular K-Member and A-Arms, shoot me an email and I may be able to help you out.... Click here for more info.