Idler arm adjustment
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Car: 87 GTA
Engine: Eaton Supercharged 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Idler arm adjustment
Ok, I know this would be an easy one to find if we had a search but since we don't please help me out. I just installed new moog everything, along with sportline springs, koni's, bushings, etc. My question is..... how do I adjust the idler arm. It slides up and down and I am not sure how to adjust it. Thanks for any info or links, and have a good day,
Tyler
Tyler
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Location: Loveland, OH, US
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Its shaft needs to be exactly parallel with the Pitamn shaft in the steering gear, and its height such that it holds the center link exactly parallel to the line between the 2 control arm bushing pivot bolts.
The steering is a parallelogram consisting of the Pitman arm, idler arm, center link, and frame. It's a rectangle when you're going straight, and the corner angles change as you steer. But at all times, opposite sides are supposed to be parallel and in the same plane.
The steering is a parallelogram consisting of the Pitman arm, idler arm, center link, and frame. It's a rectangle when you're going straight, and the corner angles change as you steer. But at all times, opposite sides are supposed to be parallel and in the same plane.
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Car: 87 GTA
Engine: Eaton Supercharged 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
So if the car is on flat ground I can put a level on the centerlink and adjust from there untill it is flat? Thanks,
Tyler
Tyler
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I would not do it that way unless you are absolutely certain that the car sits level within 1/8" or so.... better to adjust to where the center link is parallel to the line between the 2 control arm pivot bolts.... very easy to do, you'll see if you get up under the front of the car and look at it, since the thing is designed such that the center of the inner tie rod end is supposed to be directly in line with the CA bolt...
That's another thing about the geometry of the parts. The length of the center link from one inner rod end to the other is designed so that it's the same length as the distance between the CA pivots, so that when the tire deflects, the rod end doesn't try to steer the wheels. That's called "bump steer". If it's off it will eat the hell out of tires, since the tires will continually be getting toed in or out as the suspension moves.
That's another thing about the geometry of the parts. The length of the center link from one inner rod end to the other is designed so that it's the same length as the distance between the CA pivots, so that when the tire deflects, the rod end doesn't try to steer the wheels. That's called "bump steer". If it's off it will eat the hell out of tires, since the tires will continually be getting toed in or out as the suspension moves.
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