The centerlink seems to have a joint at each end of it. Are these joints only supposed to turn round and have no side to side movement like a normal ball joint does?
i.e if you removed the centerlink and put it in a vice would the joints at the end just turn around and not rock from side to side.

I jacked up the drivers side and pushed and pulled on the wheel and I can see the end on the center link that connects to the pitman arm twist is this OK?

Thanks

Simon

 

Yes. If you moved the wheel and the joints moved side to side or up and down, the ball and socket inside have too much play and are worn out.

 

Thanks for confirming that the center link is shot I'll order a new one. I also noticed that when i grease the joints that the bar moved down due to the grease pressure and joint wear.

Regards

Simon

 

If the suspension pieces are all original GM units, you might want to replace the idler arm too- it's also a wear part (goes out fast on our cars).

 

The center link seems to be one of the first steering things to go. I replaced mine a couple years ago, and it took away tons of play in the steering. I still have some play in it, but I need new tierods too :P

 

Thanks for the further advice guys.

I have been putting a lot of work into the handling of my car during the last month or so. I think I'm getting there slowly. I have replaced the outer tie rod ends. These seemed OK especially after greasing them but give them a few weeks and the play is back but only noticable if you use a long bar to test them or remove them and try to squash them in a vice.
I bought a new idler arm but it was a poor quality make and had more play than my original! Interestingly the new one has a bearing but the originals are just on a screw thread. So you can actually unwind the arm. What I found was that I could wind the original arm in a further couple of turns. At this point there is still enough movement of the arm and it has zero play. Realignment of the center link is required.
I have also made my own panhard rod , subframe connecters (huge improvement) and a 3 point strut brace. Wheel bearings front and rear renewed, rear lca bushes, boxed the lcas, bottom ball joints, shocks and struts (Tokica adjustables), anti roll bar endlinks (big improvement), top strut mounts, also replaced.

The steering box has been tightened up. I found that if you stacken the lock nut and wind the stud in to remove all play and then back it off 1/4 turn works best. Any tighter and the steering binds.

There is still some play left which is noticable on poor roads when the steering pulls from side to side. I have a center link and inner tie rod ends on order which I hope are the final fix. The only other things to change are the front LCA bushes which I'm not keen on doing as they look like hard work.
My advice, if you car is handling badly buy a full rebuild kit! Rather than buying one thing at a time. Our cars are getting old and everthing is either worn out or close to being.

I'm still think most euro/jap sports cars have better handling due to them being lighter, smaller and so more nimble which is especially noticable on the narrow twisty roads you find in the UK but I'm hopeing I'm wrong.

Simon