i'm dropping my car with hotchkis springs. i am also buying nemerous other suspenion upgrades along with these springs to accomadate to the ne ride hieght so the suspenion geometry is not all messed up. i'm thinking that i should shorter that spacer on the sway bar end link so it stays at the same height. i hear of every body getting adj. lca's and panhard rod with adjustable shocks but what about the sway bars, i have 36/24 iroc sway bars now and i'm not sure about the endlinks. also where can i get some good end links and some bushings for the front and the back. thanks--jonathan

 

You can get new poly endlinks from just about anywhere. Autozone and Pep Boys carry Energy Suspension now, and a number of sites sell ES and Prothane endlinks. Get four endlinks for the stock front size, and just cut the spacers down. Personally, I'd rather do it that way than trying to figure out the exact sizes I need after all the suspension mods being done. Just finish the mods, bolt up the sway bars, and mark off where to cut the sleeves. 30 seconds of cutting each and you're in business.

 

If you look at the long bolt, you'll see that only the end is threaded. If you cut down the spacer, you may not have enough thread to make the endlink bushings tight enough.

 

The stock size endlinks that you buy from say Spohn have enough room to cut them down. Usually, you only have to cut them like a 1/2" or something. That is a good point though. I'd have to check for sure, but I won't be lowering my car for a while. Maybe someone else can take some measurements?

 

i have no problem doing all the measurements and re taping a bolt or something i just wanted to know what you guys tought of this idea and if you have everyheard of anybody doing this.

 

Doing what? swapping end-links? Sure I think I've heard of one or two people tackling that project. Myself included. As for cutting and retapping, I haven't done that yet, as my car isn't lowered yet. When it is, I'll be giving the endlinks more thought, and will probably measure, cut, and retap them.

 

You could always buy a new bolt at a hardware store thats shorter by the length that the sleeve was shorten. Just match up the new bolts grade to the one you have now.

Idealy you want to have the ends of the sway bar parallel with the ground.

 

This is what I made with both an PST end link kit and a Moog end link kit. The PST comes with cheap hardware, poly bushings, and longer than stock sleeves, but the Moog comes with good hardware, thicker washers, stock length sleeves, and rubber bushings (blue). I found it better to put the bolt in from the top rather than from the bottom. There should be enough washers there if you need to cut the sleeves. BTW the kits come with both sides, but only one is shown in the pic.

EDIT: I replaced ES with PST because the end link kit is actually PST polygraphite (I think the bushings are ES though).

 

I believe the reason for putting the bolt in through the bottom, with the nut on "top", is to try and keep the nut from rusting. Lube up the shoulders of the new bolt with anti-sieze to keep it from rusting to the sleeve. Might not happen with aftermarket end links but hey, you never know. Stock bolts always rust to stock end links, and then you have to break out the hack saw or bolt cutters to get the damn end links off the sway bars.

 

i didnt cut my endlinks any

 

I had to bust out the jaws of life on those bad boys! no joke