torque arm bushing
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 692
Likes: 1
From: Orlando,Fl. USA
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 5.7 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
torque arm bushing
Is it easy to change? Do you have to disconnect the rear of the torque arm from the rear end? If so, is that a PITA ?
Thanks for any info
Thanks for any info
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I changed mine when I changed out my 700r4 trans. You don't have to disconnect the torque arm from the axle. Raise the back of the car and put it on jackstands- place the jackstands on the rear subframe, NOT the rear axle; let the rear axle hang by the shocks.
You'll have to remove the trans crossmember and lower the back of the trans to get one of the bushing's bolts out- it's too long to be taken out; it's "wedged" up inside the trans tunnel. Use a long block of wood between the trans pan and your hydraulic jack- the wood should extend "past" the edges of the trans pan so you don't crush anything. Raise the trans up a slight bit- the trans mount will "resist" you lifting the trans much. Remove the crossmember bolts. Lower the trans enough to get at the torque arm bushing bolts and have a friend watch your engine to make sure you don't lower the trans so far that you smash the distributor cap into the firewall!!!
Then it's unbolt old, remove rivets holding old rubber to bushing bracket, insert new bushing into bracket, and reinstall. The bracket will "hinge" on itself (2 piece bracket), and since poly doesn't crush, you might need to force the bracket closed with channel locks until you get the bolts in.
It's not painfully hard, doesn't require ultra-special tools, but you won't get it done in 20 minutes. But man, it's worth it!!!
If you don't have a poly trans mount yet, this would be the perfect time to install one...
You'll have to remove the trans crossmember and lower the back of the trans to get one of the bushing's bolts out- it's too long to be taken out; it's "wedged" up inside the trans tunnel. Use a long block of wood between the trans pan and your hydraulic jack- the wood should extend "past" the edges of the trans pan so you don't crush anything. Raise the trans up a slight bit- the trans mount will "resist" you lifting the trans much. Remove the crossmember bolts. Lower the trans enough to get at the torque arm bushing bolts and have a friend watch your engine to make sure you don't lower the trans so far that you smash the distributor cap into the firewall!!!
Then it's unbolt old, remove rivets holding old rubber to bushing bracket, insert new bushing into bracket, and reinstall. The bracket will "hinge" on itself (2 piece bracket), and since poly doesn't crush, you might need to force the bracket closed with channel locks until you get the bolts in.
It's not painfully hard, doesn't require ultra-special tools, but you won't get it done in 20 minutes. But man, it's worth it!!!

If you don't have a poly trans mount yet, this would be the perfect time to install one...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 692
Likes: 1
From: Orlando,Fl. USA
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 5.7 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Yeah, I was going to do the poly tranny mount at the same time. I am under there changing my tranny fluid and filter, so I figured this would be a good time to do the t.a. bushing and trans mount.
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iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Click the link in my sig and find the album that covers a torque arm bushing replacement. I have a pictorial "How-To" on changing that bushing out. Read the captions for hints and instructions. It's the one in the lower left.
Good luck!!
Ed
Good luck!!
Ed
Last edited by ebmiller88; Jun 13, 2003 at 05:28 PM.
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